1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Can I increase to a larger than 4lb Radiator cap?

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  #16  
Old 05-12-2019, 04:04 PM
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Thanks Greg, Its a little challenging to use the old truck for what it was always intended today....I worry not about its capabilities etc,,,,I more worry about other drivers and how stupid they can be....people delaying their start after the traffic light turns green by finishing the text or other cell phone activity, people allowing huge gaps between the car in front of them and themselves at traffic lights to where I miss the light because I cant get into the intersection before the light turns yellow because so much time or real estate has been wasted with the gaps I continually see...so far I havent shot anyone for this stuff but.....G-d help one of those if they cause a fender bender when they cut in front of me....
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 04:05 PM
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I will have hardened seats done....this is so clean someone has already been here so they likely have been already...
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 04:32 PM
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hopefully Evans Coolant will solve some of this rusty stuff....I have been guilty of just adding water now for about 2 months....I knew I was going to have to tear into this engine so I quit spending money on coolant...a gallon and a half every third morning I would have spent a fortune on coolant....Thanks for the compliment on Ethyl...she is a very nice truck...Its gratifying to see people smile when they see her...I dont think Ill do any ADI.....I want it stock---looking under the hood...I would love to have a modern high pressure radiator with old school looks...I wonder if I could find someone to make a tank that looks old but would hold higher pressure...a false outer tank--- you know like all the modern packaging...the box looks big but has false bottoms so they can charge you the same money and give you less product....
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 10:16 PM
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Yes, Evans coolant is wonderful stuff, I have used it before in earthmoving equipment along with coolant filters with great results.
Also, your cooling system was designed for the engine output. You really don't need to increase the pressure.
 
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:44 AM
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Hi Bob...I appreciate the replies.... you always are on it. And you are really a great resource. while the other FTE folks are good you and a few others are truly exceptional...thank you.....I only wanted to increase the radiator cap pressure to minimize the backwash into the overflow reservoir. I know I was losing some coolant that way....I can see it in the valley of the radiator core support under the radiator....there is always a fresh green wet color there....is the link below a coolant filter you would use? I have Four Gallons of Evans Waterless coolant coming and Two Gallons of the Prep Fluid coming.....is 4 gallons enough to fill this system? Will 2 gallons of the Prep Fluid be sufficient to set up the system for the coolant? Is there a product or a flush procedure you suggest? I almost always lose coolant through some problem when I have to do big work like this so I have learned not to fill the system with coolant to start with...I am going to lose it anyway....I double check stuff etc yet it seems to be what always happens....
Amazon Amazon
 
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Old 05-13-2019, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mytoolman
Hi Bob...I appreciate the replies.... you always are on it. And you are really a great resource. while the other FTE folks are good you and a few others are truly exceptional...thank you.....I only wanted to increase the radiator cap pressure to minimize the backwash into the overflow reservoir. I know I was losing some coolant that way....I can see it in the valley of the radiator core support under the radiator....there is always a fresh green wet color there....is the link below a coolant filter you would use? I have Four Gallons of Evans Waterless coolant coming and Two Gallons of the Prep Fluid coming.....is 4 gallons enough to fill this system? Will 2 gallons of the Prep Fluid be sufficient to set up the system for the coolant? Is there a product or a flush procedure you suggest? I almost always lose coolant through some problem when I have to do big work like this so I have learned not to fill the system with coolant to start with...I am going to lose it anyway....I double check stuff etc yet it seems to be what always happens....
https://www.amazon.com/XDP-6-4L-Cool.../dp/B01A5X3IG4
Before doing any of the Evans prep work, I would give the cooling system two thorough chemical flushes AND rinses to be sure most of the rust, scale, and sediment are removed. (your choice of brand, or use oxalic acid for the best results). Then follow the Evans directions to the "T". I think six gallons of the coolant and six gallons of the prep fluid should be adequate if you have a 23 quart system. One trick I use for filling cooling systems is to pump (I use a simple drill pump) the coolant back into the system via the drain plug. This eliminates any air pockets. A quick Evans installation video - https://www.evanscoolant.com/videos/truck-conversion/

That coolant filter setup you provided the link to is very pretty, but I used this one -
//www.amazon.com/Baldwin-CFB5000-Coolant-Filter-Base/dp/B0015RC5A0 //www.amazon.com/Baldwin-CFB5000-Coolant-Filter-Base/dp/B0015RC5A0

But it can be painted. It can be easily installed in series in the heater circuit. Here's my installation.
]" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajhvpkV6New]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajhvpkV6New] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajhvpkV6New]
 
  #22  
Old 05-13-2019, 06:51 PM
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Bakealite WATER PUMP IMPELLER????

Bob that just coolant filter housing you suggested just saved me OVER a $100.....thank you...your Mixer is immaculate in the engine compartment....impressive...ill have to order two more gallons of each of the Evans products thanks for doing the math there....good news heads are fine...no cracks...the machine shop will tear them down to see more specifics in the next few days..so far the machine shop found the valves to be leaking and the head surface is not as smooth as it can be....NEW QUESTIONs....I just (luckily) finally found and BOUGHT a RARE VERY RARE HIGH MOUNT WATER PUMP off of Ebay. The description said the "BAKEALITE WATER PUMP IMPELLER was in *GOOD* CONDITION" Is there a bakealite impeller in these water pumps...?? Next question Will Flush chemicals DAMAGE the WATER PUMP??? THE water pump I just bought probably needs a rebuild and mine seems to work NOW but I dont know its actual condition....I understand there is a company that rebuilds these pumps....I will send out the new ebay one for THAT rebuild so I am ready for the day when I need to replace the one currently in use....
 

Last edited by mytoolman; 05-14-2019 at 10:38 AM. Reason: add a question for Bob and the Forum
  #23  
Old 05-13-2019, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mytoolman
I would love to have a modern high pressure radiator with old school looks...

Found this on eBay. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F291662892598
 
  #24  
Old 05-14-2019, 11:07 AM
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Thanks Mr Mayberry....Ask and ye shall receive(regarding the modern radiator with old school looks!).....I think I may have solved my need for more pressure in my idea to minimize coolant overflow by INSTEAD using the very expensive 'EVANS Waterless Coolant...we shall see... I really like my "ORIGINAL AS HENRY" copper radiator look and the idea of it.......
Now Ive opened the learning process for cleaning out all the rusty looking stuff in the block etc...Do you know if my "High Mount" water pump will be damaged by using any flush products???? Two days ago I finally found a High Mount water pump for sale on Ebay and bought it. I have been looking for one to have as a backup to the one on my truck now for a year. What was interesting or worrying etc was the description for that ebay pump stated "The Bakealite Impeller for the water pump is still in good condition" is there a bakealite impeller???? What about flush chemicals...will they melt or otherwise ruin that impeller???? or anything else with the water pump on my truck now??? If need be Ill buy a REGULAR WATER PUMP to use to flush the system and reinstall the high mount one when everything is clean and safe to do so.....so many new questions to answer as I proceed along...
 
  #25  
Old 05-14-2019, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mytoolman
Do you know if my "High Mount" water pump will be damaged by using any flush products???? Two days ago I finally found a High Mount water pump for sale on Ebay and bought it. I have been looking for one to have as a backup to the one on my truck now for a year. What was interesting or worrying etc was the description for that ebay pump stated "The Bakealite Impeller for the water pump is still in good condition" is there a bakealite impeller???? What about flush chemicals...will they melt or otherwise ruin that impeller???? or anything else with the water pump on my truck now??? If need be Ill buy a REGULAR WATER PUMP to use to flush the system and reinstall the high mount one when everything is clean and safe to do so.....so many new questions to answer as I proceed along...
Any over-the-counter flush products should be safe to use as long as the directions are followed. Oxalic acid on the other hand, while being far superior to any OTC flushes, is a little more involved; the thermostat must be removed and the cooling system filled with a solution of plain water and 4 tablespoons of oxalic acid, then run the engine at fast idle for ten minutes. Drain and fill with plain water, run engine at fast idle for five minutes, drain and fill with a solution of 4% baking soda to thoroughly neutralize the acid, run at fast idle for five minutes, drain and reinstall thermostat.
It's pretty unlikely that the impeller in your new coolant pump is actually Bakelite (phenolic resin) since it is a thermosetting plastic, but in all probability is "Simsite" which is a proprietary name for a structural graphite compound. It's been my personal experience that this stuff is bullet proof against chemicals, corrosion, abrasion, cavitation, and liquid impingement. So hopefully your spare high-mount coolant pump will have a carbon/ceramic mechanical seal, which is compatible with just about everything.
 
  #26  
Old 05-14-2019, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mixer man
Any over-the-counter flush products should be safe to use as long as the directions are followed. Oxalic acid on the other hand, while being far superior to any OTC flushes, is a little more involved; the thermostat must be removed and the cooling system filled with a solution of plain water and 4 tablespoons of oxalic acid, then run the engine at fast idle for ten minutes. Drain and fill with plain water, run engine at fast idle for five minutes, drain and fill with a solution of 4% baking soda to thoroughly neutralize the acid, run at fast idle for five minutes, drain and reinstall thermostat.
It's pretty unlikely that the impeller in your new coolant pump is actually Bakelite (phenolic resin) since it is a thermosetting plastic, but in all probability is "Simsite" which is a proprietary name for a structural graphite compound. It's been my personal experience that this stuff is bullet proof against chemicals, corrosion, abrasion, cavitation, and liquid impingement. So hopefully your spare high-mount coolant pump will have a carbon/ceramic mechanical seal, which is compatible with just about everything.
Fleetguard Restore Plus will remove the rust from years of corrosion.

https://cumminsfiltration.com/cleaners

Cheers,

Rick
 
  #27  
Old 05-14-2019, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by HT32BSX115
Fleetguard Restore Plus will remove the rust from years of corrosion.

https://cumminsfiltration.com/cleaners

Cheers,

Rick
Yep. That's an over-the-counter product.
 
  #28  
Old 05-14-2019, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Mixer man
Yep. That's an over-the-counter product.
I'll also add that when I picked up my OEM radiator from NW Radiator Works in Tacoma, the old guy that re-cored (from 3-row to 4-row) it told me to use a 10lb cap.
Evidently they're one of the few copper radiator repair facilities left around here........ . https://www.northwestradiatorworks.com/
 
  #29  
Old 05-14-2019, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by HT32BSX115
I'll also add that when I picked up my OEM radiator from NW Radiator Works in Tacoma, the old guy that re-cored (from 3-row to 4-row) it told me to use a 10lb cap.
Evidently they're one of the few copper radiator repair facilities left around here........ . https://www.northwestradiatorworks.com/
Yep. Real radiator shops are a quickly dying breed. Not only because of stricter environmental regulations, but "Who want's to get their hands dirty anymore"? Back in the day I took all my oil coolers, heat exchangers, and radiators to Softky Brothers on Westlake Ave. in Seattle. They were the go-to shop in Western Washington. They closed down in 1990.
 
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Old 05-16-2019, 01:17 AM
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Met with John Mummert this morning.

I met John Mummert this morning at his machine shop in El Cajon California. It was a 40 minute drive to get to him. Heck of a nice guy! He knew about my truck already...a friend of his was a salesman at Miramar Ford Truck and had sent him a picture of Ethyl last year. I sell their technicians tools....Mr Mummert looked at my old head gaskets and saw where the coolant was escaping. My eldest boy lives in Alpine which is about 8 miles more east than Mr Mummert's place, so I took a chance and went to Alpine and luckily my son was there...We talked for a half hour and as I was leaving his home, Wholesale Automotive Machine(WAM) called to tell me they had finished my heads....my plan of going to East County San Diego to see Mr Mummert and be in the area so I could also get my heads a few miles west of him and on my way home panned out....Mr Mummert sold me some Arp head bolts, a Best Brand graphite. head gasket set (he doesnt like the FelPro stuff)

reworked heads ready for install

Graphite head gaskets in place

Heads re-installed.
and the coolant water pump to intake bypass hose nipple he makes . I found out he has the guitar as a hobby. The phone rang 3 or 4 times while I was there...he does NOT answer it....Im not sure how one would get his information if you did not do what I did...and just show up....

I spent from 3pm to 10pm tonight and have got as far as reinstalling the heads...She will run tomorrow..
 


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