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Still has play- Just replaced everything but balljoints including steering box

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Still has play- Just replaced everything but balljoints including steering box

 
  #16  
Old 05-07-2019, 12:47 AM
Brian Hanks
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Originally Posted by Bently_Coop View Post
Do you have a steering stabilizer on the front axle? I had significant play at the steering wheel until installing a Bilstein 5100 stabilizer.
No. Does theirs work on stock height truck?

What transmission did you go with? HD4R100?
Local rebuild. Trusted guy that used billet precision TC and did his own mods on valve body etc. considered HD4R100 but with cost of it and a separate TC because one comes with it ainít great was too much. So far so good.

Do you have the larger 6.0 transmission cooler now?
No. actually been quite happy with trucool max. Highest my tranny had been was 145 pulling 3 horses since. Will test more this summer.

I would recommend Spicer for the ball joints, u-joints and seals on the front axle. Saw those. Looking at XRF for ball joints too.

It isn't to hard to replace on your own with the write ups here and good tools. Ball joint press can be rented at the local autoparts store as well.

Where are you located? Maybe you can take a moment to update your profile and signature to reflect which truck you have.

AR but soon MS.

Thanks and welcome to FTE
see responses above
 
  #17  
Old 05-07-2019, 08:50 AM
ashleyroachclip
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The play in the sector shaft is adjustable to a point .
Top of your steering box , there is a nut , around a flat blade screw .
Hold the screw , loosen the nut a complete turn while holding the screw .
Then turn the screw in just until the slack is gone , tighten the nut .
 
  #18  
Old 05-07-2019, 10:41 AM
U9000
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You're chasing a problem that's not really a huge problem. 2" movement in your wheel when you're moving will probably translate to wheel direction changes, albeit tiny. Just drive it and enjoy it. You're not going to get instant response out of the system, as it's not designed to do that. I understand that you feel it should respond instantly, but as you're finding out, they just don't do that. Are you having troubles holding the truck on the road?
 
  #19  
Old 05-07-2019, 05:52 PM
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More annoying constant corrections.
 
  #20  
Old 05-07-2019, 09:38 PM
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I was wrong it does have a single arm steering stabilizer that is brand new. Replaced with rear of steering components.
 
  #21  
Old 05-10-2019, 05:54 AM
Jakerichards1
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Same troubles on ex

I have been the long way around just like you.

If if you are certain there is play in your redhead box then you need to contact them for warranty.

I have one too and still have a little vagueness in the steering. Itís not a Toyota steering system. Chevy is number 2 design and ford is last. Not sure why but the design is very sensitive to any amount of play.

Did you know that runout spec on steering joints is .05Ē? That is tiny.

The easy fix on steering shaft slop is to cut and fold a piece of hose clamp and jamb it in there. Fold the rest back over big end and secure with another hose clamp. Cover with spray grease.

Easy to check resistance on ball joints. Jack up wheel and remove tie rod end from spindle assy. Should turn back and forth very easy and both sides equal.

Also. Try removing steering stabilizer. See if you like it. Itís there for bump steer control. Not for straight line tracking. It makes self centering worse.
 
  #22  
Old 05-10-2019, 12:25 PM
Brian Hanks
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Originally Posted by Jakerichards1 View Post
I have been the long way around just like you.

If if you are certain there is play in your redhead box then you need to contact them for warranty.

I have one too and still have a little vagueness in the steering. Itís not a Toyota steering system. Chevy is number 2 design and ford is last. Not sure why but the design is very sensitive to any amount of play.

Did you know that runout spec on steering joints is .05Ē? That is tiny.

The easy fix on steering shaft slop is to cut and fold a piece of hose clamp and jamb it in there. Fold the rest back over big end and secure with another hose clamp. Cover with spray grease.

Easy to check resistance on ball joints. Jack up wheel and remove tie rod end from spindle assy. Should turn back and forth very easy and both sides equal.

Also. Try removing steering stabilizer. See if you like it. Itís there for bump steer control. Not for straight line tracking. It makes self centering worse.
Thanks. I have to service the hubs because I donít know their history so Iím just gonna go ahead and replace the ball joints anyway when there with greaseable. As well as u joints just cause.. if after all that it still has a problem itís the dang gearbox... frustrating because of all the labor that went into that last one and having to do it again on my own dime because something they didnít do right.
 
  #23  
Old 05-15-2019, 09:14 PM
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Play here too, 2004 cc 4x4

2004 4x4, got my front end all checked out and some parts replaced, including a reman steering box from Ford stealer. Got front end aligned by a good local shop. The steering play started a few days later. The truck has about 240k on it, and all the steering linkage seems tight on visual inspection when somebody rocks the steering wheel back and forth.

Here's a video of where the play seems to be, in the box itself.
If you turn up the sound at the beginning of the vid you can hear the looseness as noise in the box itself.

Fought this issue with our OBS and discovered that unless you get a Red Head or Blue Top reman, the sector shaft race is not re-machined. Wondering if Ford SDs have that same issue? This reman Ford box has play, and it either loosened up in 3 weeks, or its sector shaft has radial play. $700 bucks down the drain.
 
  #24  
Old 05-16-2019, 09:34 AM
Mike1
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As stated before, try adjust the gearbox. Loosen the nut and then adjust the the allen head stud, 1/4 turn CW, tighten nut. Take it for a drive for a few miles, see if it settles in, If it's still loose, adjust it another 1/4 turn CW, tighten the nut, drive it. You'll never get all the play out but you can get it down to about 1/2".

DO NOT keep adjusting the gearbox as it can wear out the ball ramps inside. If you have adjusted 1/4 turn 4 times, that's one full turn and you probably have another problem in the front end.
 
  #25  
Old 05-16-2019, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike1 View Post
As stated before, try adjust the gearbox. Loosen the nut and then adjust the the allen head stud, 1/4 turn CW, tighten nut. Take it for a drive for a few miles, see if it settles in, If it's still loose, adjust it another 1/4 turn CW, tighten the nut, drive it. You'll never get all the play out but you can get it down to about 1/2".

DO NOT keep adjusting the gearbox as it can wear out the ball ramps inside. If you have adjusted 1/4 turn 4 times, that's one full turn and you probably have another problem in the front end.
Good advice, thanks. BTDT, now I'm wondering if SD steering boxes have the same weakness as OBS: sector shaft bearing race is machined directly into the cast iron housing. Anybody know?
 
  #26  
Old Yesterday, 07:23 AM
Mattman81
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So how much would you guys say is to much to tighten the box? I just went through my front end. Still have some play in mine. Not to bad. But I turned tightened mine almost a 1/4 turn. Helped a little. How much more should I try before I just order a red head box? Someone said one full turn is all? Is that a good number? Assuming the previous owner never adjusted it....
 
  #27  
Old Yesterday, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Mattman81 View Post
So how much would you guys say is to much to tighten the box? I just went through my front end. Still have some play in mine. Not to bad. But I turned tightened mine almost a 1/4 turn. Helped a little. How much more should I try before I just order a red head box? Someone said one full turn is all? Is that a good number? Assuming the previous owner never adjusted it....
There's no set number. My 89 took 1/4 turn but my 00 took over a full turn. I just did 1/8 turn on my 04 but it needs more. Access is difficult on the 04.

In any case, you need to be careful not to over-tighten it. That would make the steering "sticky" and wear it out faster. I put a dab of white paint on the set screw so I can see exactly how far I'm turning it, then go by 1/4 turn increments, and test drive it for a good long drive. Make sure you get out on the open road which is where you'd feel results best.

An alternative method is to back off the lock bolt 2 turns, then tighten the set screw by hand until you feel it get tighter. It takes a 3/16" allen on my 04, but a blade screwdriver on my 00. Then you back it off a tiny bit and tighten the lock nut there.

Watch out. When you tighten the lock nut, you need hold the set screw in place, or it tightens a bit too. Which may lead to over-tightening.
 
 


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