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94 F250 5.8 E40D has Harsh and Delayed Shifting out of park

 
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:35 PM
mark lazicky
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94 F250 5.8 E40D has Harsh and Delayed Shifting out of park

Hey guys,

I've been lurking and researching these forums for answers to my shifting issues. I've gained a bunch of knowledge from old posts. But now I would really like to specify my own problem, which I'm sure isn't unique..

Anywho, I recently picked up a very well kept 94 250 with a E40D tranny. The transmission was rebuilt in 06 at 111000 miles and she is currently at 136000. She was babied and garaged for most of her life so that is why I'm shocked at my problem.

Her prognosis is that mainly in park, and especially going into reverse, she clunks heavily into gear. Feels like I'm always parked on a steep hill when I shift. She does it going into drive also. There is about a second delay as well. Which wasn't as noticeable as the hard shift, but I'm hoping that can narrow down her issue. You can feel her jerk very little into higher gears, but it is not nearly as hard as at a stop.

I'm down in Mexico so I have not been able to get in contact with a code reader yet. That is the next step. I know that is the first thing I should have done, but circumstances have prohibited so.

I started with the easy cheap fix attempts, which have not helped. I changed the VSS, TPS, tranny fluid, and filter. Still no change...

My next steps are getting more expensive so I'm looking for some input prior. I'm on the verge of ordering a new MLPS, but at this rate I'm doubtful. I will test my current one tomorrow with a multimeter and make sure she is aligned.

The solenoid would be the next step but I would need someone to do that for me. I really don't have a sand free work space or many tools. But also, I don't have the most confidence for many tranny shops down here. I'm very wary about them opening up the box.

If none of those I fear for mechanical issues i.e. a new torque converter.

So to help my stress and my pocket... do you gurus have any insight? Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

If I missed any details I apologize in advance.

Thank you guys in advance!
 

Last edited by mark lazicky; 05-04-2019 at 02:48 PM. Reason: Spelling/Grammar
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Old 05-04-2019, 05:49 PM
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When you get the code reader,or check for codes with a paper clip you will have a better insight as to what it is. A failed PCM can cause the symptoms that you describe also. That needs to be ruled out before you start driving yourself crazy and chasing your tail.

 
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Old 05-04-2019, 07:34 PM
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The E4OD is electronically controlled. The first thing I would do is pull the fill plug and check for proper fluid level. Next I would disconnect the harness at the transmission and clean it with electric contact cleaner. If that is not available you could use rubbing alcohol and a rag to gently clean the female part. I would also clean the male end with light sandpaper or something like that. If that doesn't work, the post I put below should give you some ideas for other items to consider. Adios Sandy


https://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content...alogs/E4OD.pdf

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...4od-right.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-harness.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...uild-psom.html
 
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Old 05-04-2019, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ZombieF150 View Post
When you get the code reader,or check for codes with a paper clip you will have a better insight as to what it is. A failed PCM can cause the symptoms that you describe also. That needs to be ruled out before you start driving yourself crazy and chasing your tail.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p04NPv_gXsI
Thank you so much! She just threw a 632 code. TCS Transmission control shift. Any advice??
 
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Old 05-04-2019, 08:57 PM
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My advice for the 632 code is to press the OD OFF button while the self test is running. If you don't press the button you get that code. If you did press the button you most likely have a damaged wire where it enters the shift handle inside the steering column.
 
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Old 05-05-2019, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky View Post
My advice for the 632 code is to press the OD OFF button while the self test is running. If you don't press the button you get that code. If you did press the button you most likely have a damaged wire where it enters the shift handle inside the steering column.
Ok.. so now she doesn't throw any codes at all. I implemented the OD button into the goose test and now I only get 116 ( i don't have a thermostat in)..

What now? Its mechanical failure? That's a shame.

I'm still on the cusp of changing the MLPS and TCC, because I'm stubborn.

I will go ahead and check and clean all the connections.

But yeah.. any and all advice would be greatly appreciated at this point.

I just can't believe that she has no codes at all now. Even in the engine off test, it's all 111.

Thanks again.
 

Last edited by mark lazicky; 05-05-2019 at 08:05 PM. Reason: Mistake
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky View Post
My advice for the 632 code is to press the OD OFF button while the self test is running. If you don't press the button you get that code. If you did press the button you most likely have a damaged wire where it enters the shift handle inside the steering column.
Ok.. so now she doesn't throw any codes at all. I implemented the OD button into the goose test and now I only get 116 ( i don't have a thermostat in)..

What now? Its mechanical failure? That's a shame.

I'm still on the cusp of changing the MLPS and TCC, because I'm stubborn.

I will go ahead and check and clean all the connections.

But yeah.. any and all advice would be greatly appreciated at this point.

I just can't believe that she has no codes at all now. Even in the engine off test, it's all 111.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:23 PM
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Check the transmission mount. If it's damaged it will cause very bad engagements. Also, remove the driveshaft and check the u-joints. A bad u-joint can do this. If you don't remove the driveshaft it is impossible to check the u-joints.
 
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Old 05-05-2019, 08:49 PM
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Your 116 code is for the ECT Engine coolant temperature sensor or switch. Not the same as thermostat. I am not positive but my understanding is the ECT failure is causing the PCM to make adjustments that also effect shifting in the E4OD.
 
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Old 05-05-2019, 09:39 PM
mark lazicky
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky View Post
Check the transmission mount. If it's damaged it will cause very bad engagements. Also, remove the driveshaft and check the u-joints. A bad u-joint can do this. If you don't remove the driveshaft it is impossible to check the u-joints.
Thank you,.

I will look into the u joints. It seems that could very well be the problem and not crazy pricey. I'm new to them though. What should I be looking for? Also for new ones there are a few different options. How do I know which one/s to get?
 
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Old 05-05-2019, 10:47 PM
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If your ECT is bad or the truck is not warming up due to not having a thermostat your PCM will not be able to adjust fuel/air mixture properly and you WILL end up sludging your engine up. These engines depend on the engine being able to get hot enough for the computer to trim out the fuel /air mix, other wise it's gonna run rich and your oil will never reach the proper temp to act as it should. The PCM will never see the truck as being warmed up and that could affect the way the transmission shifts Your transmission should have a temp sensor in it also (If I recall) The transmission fluid flows through the radiator cooler I assume, and if the engine coolant never gets to temp,it may be over cooling or not allowing the the tranny fluid to reach proper temp (thats just me surmising and i may be way wrong on that)

I'd get a thermostat in it. 195 degrees. Again these engines NEED the coolant temp to trim out the fuel /air and know when the engine is properly warmed. That should help with the shifts while driving.

I'd also check the tranny mount and U joints as suggested Spicer makes great U joints and one of these days i have to install a set I've been sitting on for a while, been waiting for it to get warm here but now it's not having time as I am working OT. Mine are not needing replacement yet,but.... I would rather change them before it gets critical and i don't know if they ever have been changed on my truck.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 07:54 PM
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Hey there,

So it took a while to get time and parts together to finally work on her, but to still no avail...she still has the same reoccurring issue.. I need help my friends!

I changed all the sensors that were throwing a code with my paperclip, i.e. my coolant sensor and added a thermostat 192. She now only gives off 111.

Also just switched out the u joint today.. she is still clunking hard out of park but mainly in reverse now.. like ungodly harrrd sometimes. I switched out the rear u joint to the diff.

So I'm assuming it's something mechanical at this point. Any suggestions? Torque converter??

I looked at all the transmission mounts and they seem fine. But, honestly I don't know what to look for though. Any tell tales or anything in particular?

Thank you guys for all your input. I also really hope to come up with an answer soon, for I have a long range surf trip coming up! I don't want to be sweating the whole time.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Godspeed.
 
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Old 05-17-2019, 08:51 PM
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If it were the torque converter, how would the converter know it's shifting to reverse? It would also be bad into drive, and every other shift, too.

My guess is a sticking accumulator in the accumulator body.
 
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Old 05-18-2019, 06:53 AM
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Have you checked the differential fluid level? Any whining from the rear end?

A bottle of Lucas transmission fix may be what you need for the tranny. Not normally a proponent of "mechanic in a can" type stuff but have used some things to good results and one of them was the lucas stuff in a Ford Windstar that always seemed to be shifting hard, hunting for gears and shuddered. A friend who does nothing but transmissions for a living gave me a bottle and told me to put it in ( I was 800 miles from home visiting people) I did and the transmission never acted weird again after about 50 miles, drove it for 4 more years before I sold it.

If it works, great! if it doesn't, well you are out the cost of a bottle of it.
 
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Old 05-18-2019, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky View Post
If it were the torque converter, how would the converter know it's shifting to reverse? It would also be bad into drive, and every other shift, too.

My guess is a sticking accumulator in the accumulator body.
So are you saying I need a shift kit? How big of a project/can of worms is that gonna be?

Any input or suggestions =X

Thanks!
 

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