I need a good place to do the machine work on my 226 in Western Washington
#1
I need a good place to do the machine work on my 226 in Western Washington
Good morning All.
I have been using a "G" series 226 out of a 46 show car to power my 51 F-1. It has less than 30k miles but the oil pump has given up the ghost. There doesn't seem to be any new ones or parts available. I was only using this until I rebuilt the 51 226 I had pulled out. I guess this is now so do any of the many members here in the area have any recommendations or places to avoid? I am not looking for the cheapest but not doing anything but a basic rebuild. I would be willing to transport outside of my local area within reason.
Wish it was still this wide open!
Thanks for any input.
I have been using a "G" series 226 out of a 46 show car to power my 51 F-1. It has less than 30k miles but the oil pump has given up the ghost. There doesn't seem to be any new ones or parts available. I was only using this until I rebuilt the 51 226 I had pulled out. I guess this is now so do any of the many members here in the area have any recommendations or places to avoid? I am not looking for the cheapest but not doing anything but a basic rebuild. I would be willing to transport outside of my local area within reason.
Wish it was still this wide open!
Thanks for any input.
#2
I have seen recent threads on the Ford Barn where people have found new NOS oil pumps for the H-series, are they the same as the G? Is it possible your pump's relief valve isn't sticking open?
A good resource is the Early Ford V8 Club, even tho this is a 6. They will know the shops that are familiar with (and unafraid of) flatheads.
A good resource is the Early Ford V8 Club, even tho this is a 6. They will know the shops that are familiar with (and unafraid of) flatheads.
#3
Hi Rich,
Well I can't send any place recommendations your way cause I'm way on the other side of the country, but I can share what I paid to have a machine shop work on my 226.
This work was done by a long-time Ford machinist who just retired last year. He knew what he was doing and did it well.
Parts & labor cost breakdown: Main bearings $245, Rod bearings $283, Cylinder sleeve $39, Bore (0.040") and hone block $175, Valve grinding & replaced a few valves $275, resurface block $150. Clean block, disassemble, reassemble $290. For some reason he did not have a line item for the new rings (??) but he did install new ones.
I provided the gasket set and removed everything from the block but the head.
I re-assembled everything else on the block myself after painting it red.
Total cost for the parts and machine work was $1,468.
He was probably the best guy for 50 miles around to do an old Ford block, and maybe the only one around that was left. Many automotive machine shops have closed down in Maine in the last 20 years. I was lucky to have him do this before he retired and closed his shop. The last I heard nobody has bought his machines and tools to take over or to learn from him.
Hope this is helpful info for anyone here.
Tom
Well I can't send any place recommendations your way cause I'm way on the other side of the country, but I can share what I paid to have a machine shop work on my 226.
This work was done by a long-time Ford machinist who just retired last year. He knew what he was doing and did it well.
Parts & labor cost breakdown: Main bearings $245, Rod bearings $283, Cylinder sleeve $39, Bore (0.040") and hone block $175, Valve grinding & replaced a few valves $275, resurface block $150. Clean block, disassemble, reassemble $290. For some reason he did not have a line item for the new rings (??) but he did install new ones.
I provided the gasket set and removed everything from the block but the head.
I re-assembled everything else on the block myself after painting it red.
Total cost for the parts and machine work was $1,468.
He was probably the best guy for 50 miles around to do an old Ford block, and maybe the only one around that was left. Many automotive machine shops have closed down in Maine in the last 20 years. I was lucky to have him do this before he retired and closed his shop. The last I heard nobody has bought his machines and tools to take over or to learn from him.
Hope this is helpful info for anyone here.
Tom
#4
Thanks Tom and Ross!
Ross, I have a NOS oil pump for my "H". It is different. The "G" is part of the front main bearing. I will look into those places. There is Westbay Auto here in Bremerton also to consider.
Tom, interesting to hear your costs. I have been gathering NOS/ rebuilt parts for years and have almost all the interior replacement parts except rod bearings. I have planned on about double that amount so anything less is a bonus! I hope I can get close to the looks of your engine.
Ross, I have a NOS oil pump for my "H". It is different. The "G" is part of the front main bearing. I will look into those places. There is Westbay Auto here in Bremerton also to consider.
Tom, interesting to hear your costs. I have been gathering NOS/ rebuilt parts for years and have almost all the interior replacement parts except rod bearings. I have planned on about double that amount so anything less is a bonus! I hope I can get close to the looks of your engine.
#5
I can personally recommend these folks. They did a 440 Mopar sleeve job and a Ford H-226 head for me several years ago. Not really close by tho.
The Northwests' Premier Automotive Machine Shop - Action Machine
Another friend recommended this shop because they do flatheads too.
Engine Balancing, Custom Engine Rebuilding, Cylinder Boring by Buds Machine and Engine Shop
The Northwests' Premier Automotive Machine Shop - Action Machine
Another friend recommended this shop because they do flatheads too.
Engine Balancing, Custom Engine Rebuilding, Cylinder Boring by Buds Machine and Engine Shop
#7
A good shop in Chehalis
Although I have not done business with Barry’s Quality Auto Machine Shop, 192 Market Street in Chehalis, I have consulted with the proprietor for advice on crankcase ventilation for the Y-Block in my ‘56 F-100. Others have offered high recommendations for this shop. Perhaps small town service might bring quality work at a price that’s more affordable than big city operations, but that’s speculation on my part.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Trending Topics
#8
Wow, just saw that it's been almost a year since this thread started.
I called around to a few of the shops suggested but all seemed to be backed up about 5-6 months. I ended up using the local Napa shop. I took the engine parts in around the end of May and picked everything up the first week in September. They cleaned and magnafluxed the block, head and crank. Rods were reconditioned and pistons installed. Block was line bored (0.060) and surfaced along with the head. After a valve job, I had them but the cam and valve train together for me. I assembled the rest. The crank was cut and polished at 0.020/0.020. When it was all done in cost about $1150. Better than I expected.
This is how I got it back from the shop.
Masked off, ready to make pretty.
End of the day!
I called around to a few of the shops suggested but all seemed to be backed up about 5-6 months. I ended up using the local Napa shop. I took the engine parts in around the end of May and picked everything up the first week in September. They cleaned and magnafluxed the block, head and crank. Rods were reconditioned and pistons installed. Block was line bored (0.060) and surfaced along with the head. After a valve job, I had them but the cam and valve train together for me. I assembled the rest. The crank was cut and polished at 0.020/0.020. When it was all done in cost about $1150. Better than I expected.
This is how I got it back from the shop.
Masked off, ready to make pretty.
End of the day!
#11
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RageOfAntioch
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
02-18-2019 09:50 PM
Buyerz
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
17
03-31-2014 01:02 PM