Iam usually on the Diesel section but not much going on, so wondered over here to see what`s up.
I`ll add my 2 cents on my door striker problem. My 86 F-250 doors were hard to shut and slightly rattled.
New door seals would probably be a big help. I had read about using the Pex pipe trick. At HD only
available length is 4ft or so, and comes in colors....and pink didn`t cut it. so went with white.

Easy to cut it, using a PVC pipe cutter plyers. Then placing it vertically in the jaws, cut it length wise.
Hard part was to pry it open enough to fit over the bolt.

Did make a huge improvement in shutting the doors.

Later on I was at PNP rapeing parts off a 85 F-250 6.9, wondering around the yard noticed the later model
trucks say in the 90`s had some good looking Strikers especially on the passenger side. Had my HF Earth
Quake 3/8" battery Impact gun, and using a T50 bit, grabbed a bunch of strikers. Replaced the Pex ungraded
ones and the doors seem to shut much better. Does not take much effort to close the doors.
The later strikers have that bent piece of steel around the Striker probably so people don`t get their clothing
hung up on the Bolt.

My Bro in Law has an old 83 4x4 that has been rode hard one too many times. He really has to slam the doors to
get them to close. His excuse is the prior owner replaced the door seals with cheap Chicom ones that are thicker.
I didn`t buy that excuse, so one day I got with him and replaced them with the PNP one`s and it was night different.
No more slamming.

Be sure to mark the old striker with a pencil for reference, then make adjustment from there.

Any one wanting a HF impact gun, be aware that the sockets are held on with a steel ring on the end of the snout of
the gun. I haven`t used mine all that much, but was having trouble taking off or on the socket. The ring was bent and
sticking up after getting the socket off. Had to use a slotted screwdriver to pry the socket off.
W/O the ring, the sockets will not stay on.
If I had bought the $29 warranty, they would have replaced the gun. Still can purchase the warranty. That is a pricy
little ring. Maybe a rubber "O" Ring might hold it on...we`ll see.

My battery tools are Dewalt, and notice the Dewalt gun has the little button that holds on the socket, much better deal.
I was going to buy the 1/2 gun from HF, but not now. better off having one brand of tool, then you only need one battery
instead of multiple brands.

Charlie

 

I ended up getting both a piece of PEX pipe and some self fusing silicone tape. I cut a piece of PEX exactly the same length as the original nylon bushing. It's pre-slit and ready for install. I put it in the map pocket for a future need. As I mentioned before, my original roller was cracked up...and I happened to notice it before it broke apart. Probably one more door shut would have busted it up! So had some black tape handy and wrapped a few winds with it to hold it together. The black tape was working very well. Since I wanted to have some self fusing tape in my on-board tool kit anyway and since the black tape was working so well I decided to try removing the black tape and replacing it with the self fusing tape. I un-wound the black tape carefully and saw that a piece of the nylon roller was sticking to the tape on the last wind, so I trimmed off the black tape at one wind plus a little overlap and then applied 1 and a half winds of the self fusing tape over the black tape. So far that is working well and no worries about the black tape unwinding and the self fusing tape is tougher than the black tape so should last a while. The self fusing tape is compressible and formed to the door latch jaws nicely. Smooth operation of the door.

If and when it fails I have the PEX and the silicone self fusing tape on board so I can make a road repair very quickly. Next time I go to a PNP I'll look for some spare rollers too. It's probably the best fix available. I didn't want to go with the current after market replacement with the angle brace. It just didn't look right to me.

BB2

 

Rock Auto has the bushings for $2.82 +Shipping. Or you can get a whole new hinge and just bolt it on.

 

This thread is mostly about the latch bolt roller, but keeping the hinges up to par is important too and probably leads to door latch roller failure when the hinges are sagging. I replaced my driver's side hinges quite a while ago.

BB2

 

I forgot to mention a trick with self-fusing tape. If you pull tight during installation, it stretches thinner and becomes denser. You'll need to make another wrap or two to compensate for the reduced thickness, but you end up with a very firm consistency. Conversely, if not stretched so much, the end result has a little more give. You can adjust to suit.

Even though such a repair may seem hokey, it has held up very well. I did the first one out of desperation in the middle of a long trip, to keep the door from rattling. I didn't put much thought into it and planned to get the correct part when I got home. Much to my surprise, it worked wonderfully. When the piece broke on the other side, I didn't think twice and did the silicone tape trick again.

 

I thought the hinge came with new roller... But now I realized were talking about two different rollers lol.

 

Since I was going around the busted up nylon bushing being held together with black tape, so I only stretched it far enough so that the width of the tape stretched matched the width of the bushing underneath. The directions did say the more you stretch it the better the bond. I did stretch it a bit extra at the very end and then pressed the tape together. It's bonded very well. If you don't have the busted nylon bushing below you can probably stretch it more while winding around the bare bolt making a denser wrap.

We'll see how long the bandaid lasts!

BB2

 

You can see where the jaws grab the repaired bushing. Some compression took place. The tape was 1 inch wide and the bushing is slightly under .75"

 

Roller as the Bushing is being refered to I guess is not is not something that can be taken off
a striker. I think that is the way I read it above they can be removed.

I agree if the door hinge is worn out and the door sags, then it will add wear to the bushing as
it closes and pulls the door up to latch.
both of mine sag. But I have new PNP doors to replace the rusted banged up doors I have.
When PNP has their 50% off sale the whole door is $30 something dollars. If the hinges are
good, then they stay with the doors. Think I have 5 doors so far. Hard to find good doors by
the time PNP beats up the bodies moving the vehicles around with the fork lifts.

Charlie

 

I guess it's a roller bushing, but for short either way. The bushing is not removable. The striker bolt and base are one piece. Not sure if it was welded or press fit together with the nylon bushing installed during assembly. I haven't removed mine and the bushing is still on there and hides the connection. Number Dummy checked in and said it's a one piece striker and base. Some vehicles do have removable bushings but not these Fords. That is why they are a popular PNP item.

BB2

 

Wow almost year n half ago last posting.

I just reread this thread, and it s mentioned that the Striker plastic roller piece
is not removeable. Well it is on some of the later vehicles maybe in the 90`s.
Don` remember years, but check on vans, PU`s etc.... some I have removed
the bolt, it will unscrew from the bent metal piece. This style.

Not all of them will unscrew, but some will. The one`s that will, I remove the plastic
roller and keep it. Passenger doors, some Van Sliders as I remember and then the
the rear Hatch Door I think the Explorer`s. ? Just wonder around your local PNP
with your electric impact gun and a T 45 bit. (Think that is the size?)

The one`s on my 86 F250 I put on a couple year back are holding up. Can`t beat
PNP Auto Supply Haven`t been in there for quite a while.....need my theropy...LOL

Here is a thread from a couple weeks back on the same topic.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-bushings.html


Charlie