Hi, new to the forum. Needed a project for the summer so i picked up a 1984 F-250 XLT standard cab with the 6.9idi. Goal is to make it an off road rig. Truck needs a lot of work to see the road again: bed is shot, brakes are trash, interior is disgusting, cab has holes, tires are dry rotted, transmission is bad tempered, etc etc..... but it runs great.

The number one goal right now is to solve the transmission problem. It does shift into drive, and does reasonably well in first. Doesnt like to shift up and reverse is virtually inop. Truck was a plow rig on an industrial compound before i got it, so its been rode hard and put up wet. My plan is to rebuild this c6 but ive never been inside an AT before. Based on the available data (1984 diesel c6 with 4x4) what parts do i need to order to effectively rebuild this trans? The obvious one is basic overhaul kit with gaskets, band, clutch plates, bushings and filter. What else should i plan on needing? Valve body rebuild, thrust washers, pump gear?

The dilemma here is that i have the truck in a garage 6hrs away and only have access to it maybe 2 weekends a month. So i need to order parts and have them ready before i get there. I dont want to put a bone yard trans in it and having a shop do the work is way outside my budget

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

You can rebuild that tranny or have a shop do it. Just depends on your budget and time. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...build+kit,8512

The next thing you need to figure out is if your VRV is ok. Judging by your reverse situation, then maybe it is ok. If your shifting didn't work and you had reverse, then I'd say your VRV is bad. Just know that the VRV is obsolete, and ford and companies aren't making them anymore. I'm planning on having a decent stockpile of them in a few weeks once get all my parts. Another thing could be that truck is just so neglected, that there are various vacuum pump, tranny, TC, and other issues all contributing to the bad shifting. Come to think of it, your brakes don't work and your tranny doesn't shift well..... then I'd wager your vac pump is shot or your vac lines have a HUGE hole. both the brake power assist and tranny shifting is reliant on the vac system. You might want to investigate that first before tossing parts at a tranny.

 

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Double check the function of your vacuum booster by depressing the brake pedal with the engine off, then start the engine. The pedal should pull to the floor when the vacuum booster gets vacuum from the vacuum pump. If it doesn't, you know something is up.

Looks like the truck is well used, but I love that sun visor!

 

Just thought ide give an update. Trans is dropped and currently being rebuilt. I found someone who will do it cheaper than most transmission shops. I drained the pan/torque converter before dropping it off. There was a tremendous amount of clutch material in that pan.

This truck is quickly turning into a resto-mod. The cab is super rotted. Ordered rockers, corners and floors yesterday. Also ordered a new front fuel tank, sending unit and lift pump. (Im doing a rear tank delete to simplify the fuel system) It appears that someone bypassed the tank selector valve and installed an inline pump. Do these trucks need an inline pump? If i replace my lift pump will i do damage by keeping the inline pump?

Also ordered a new power steering pump, vacuum pump, and brake parts (wheel cylinders, caliper gasket sets, drum hardware and caliper hardware). Will be replacing all vacuum lines, fuel lines and transmission cooler lines. Much more to do before this truck is anywhere near done. Likely going to turn this thread into a build thread.

more pics and info to come next week

 

You can use either an inline electric pump or the mechanical lift pump. The electric allows you to fill the fuel filter easily if you have to change it on the road. The mechanical pumps are pretty durable but I did have one go bad and start pumping diesel into the crankcase. Good thing I was keeping an eye on my oil level when that happened.

 

Ok, so one or the other. Is it possible to keep the electric pump and wire it so it only pushes during the glow plug cycle? Also, will the pump impede fuel flow much while the engine is running, enough to effect performance or reliability? (pump would not be under power at this time).

 

If you install an electric pump you want to power it from 12V IGNition. The GPs are only powered by the GP relay and controller for a short time before start up. You can route 12V IGN through an oil pressure switch as a safety feature. This will ensure the electric pump looses power if the engine dies (in the event of a collision). You COULD leave the mechanical lift pump inline and run an electric pump, but I wouldn't. There's a chance the mechanical lift pump diaphragm could blow out and then you would get diesel in your crankcase.

Here is an electric fuel pump that is highly rated:

 

Pretty Kewl I have 3d Printed several parts for some of my clients .... I was Admin in several FB 3D printing Groups but due to the BS on FB I decided to close most of the Groups.... Solidworks is a good Friend and we use ASA as our primary Filament as it is more UV resistant than ABS we have made several Variable Vacuum Valves for other than Diesels

 

I looked into ASA, but I was leary of the melting temps. I read it can begin plastic deformation at around 99 deg C, which in an engine bay, isn't ideal. That's why I got into laser sintering instead. Resists up to 350 deg F.

I recently got most of my springs for my VRV build. Still waiting on one more spring type and some metal parts coming from the supplier. Hoping to have a few dozen boxed up by the end of the month. Maybe a hundred VRV's boxed up by July if I have the time. Fingers crossed.

 

you know the ACDELCO 14057219 is still available too, but anyway for printing ASA I generally print at 250C or higher and under hood temps never get high enough to melt anything I have ever printed we have even done a few intake manifolds ... I use an ASA/PC blend and usable working temps are 110C that is about 230F, while for sure not 350F looking at all the ABS parts under Hood they survive <<== I use that term loosely

SLS is a nice additive printing process and probably better suited for Manufacture of parts.

an easier option is use a TPS (simple pot) and an op amp to drive a Valve, it's less expensive for us DIY'er's


there are other materials that can be used for FDM printing such as Carbon Fiber and Ceramic Mixes, but SLS or DLP is better adapted, I can't afford to go that route myself, I'm stressed just doing 5 axis CNC and PNP... along with Glass cutting and Fiber Laser work

 

[QUOTE=
I recently got most of my springs for my VRV build. Still waiting on one more spring type and some metal parts coming from the supplier. Hoping to have a few dozen boxed up by the end of the month. Maybe a hundred VRV's boxed up by July if I have the time. Fingers crossed.[/QUOTE]

Hey.... Kudos to someone who wants to make some parts to keep these old Demons Alive .... best of luck to you IF someone asks me I will point them in your direction

 

Since someone mentioned the VRV. Could you install a manual valve body shift kit into a c6 to eliminate the VRV? I asked Tom (tjc_transport) this question recently in another thread and he seemed to concur. I guess the only drawback is that it sort of defeats the purpose of an automatic. MAW go to a ZF5.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trg-67-3/overview/

 

Not necessarily, even if you have to shift it yourself it'll take a lot of load bearing stress off your left leg, if I ever get a c6 rig I'll be seriously looking into the manual valve body if the factory one goes south.

 

Sorry that its taken me this long to post more. The rust work took way longer than expected. All rust on the cab has been fixed, seam sealed and painted over with POR15. Tank and trans are back in. The only other thing i have to do with the trans is make new cooler lines. I opted to go with an external trans cooler so my engine cooling system doesn't unnecessarily heat the trans fluid. (Dont have the cooler installed yet, but will post pics when complete). Next step is to get the interior back together, replace a few things under the hood, install lift kit, throw on some new wheels (picked up some 18” motometals dirt cheap, and slapped 35s on them), and put the bed on. I ordered a flat bed from Northeast Custom Flatbeds that should be showing up this week.

 

Lordy, you have far more time, money, and motivation than i do. Props to ya though, that was a mess of work to accomplish in a month.