A few weeks ago I posted about my idle surging, I now have realized the throttle is "sticking." When I am about to shift I can feel the truck hold the throttle then it jerks a little and releases the throttle. I have replaced the TPS, IAC, TPS plug, I have good vacuum pressure, cleaned the throttle body also, zero vacuum leaks, no engine codes. I tested the MAP sensor and it tested good. Could this be something at the pedal? Or something I'm missing?

Truck Specs
1992 F150 4.9l
M5R2-OD Transmission
New Clutch and plate

Old Thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...le-issues.html

 

With so many computers failing due to old age in the last few years, what do you mean by “ no codes?” Are you getting a system pass code or are you not getting any codes at all?

 

KOEO I get a code for EGR Voltage low ( can't remember specific code)

KOER I get code 11 which is the pass code

 

It sounds like your issue might be a little more serious but, FWIW, my F-150 tends to hold RPMs for about a second or two after I push in the clutch pedal to shift, then will idle down.

 

If I push the clutch in immediately after releasing the gas pedal then the rpms shoot up to around 1,900-2,000 then fall down to idle.

 

Did you adjust your idle stop screw?

 

It is backed out all the way.

 

That screw should never be adjusted since it is factory set. If it is backed out like you have it, it will hang up the butterfly valves and cause a dangerous wide open condition. It sounds like you are almost at that point. If you can see where the factory paint is on the screw put it back to where it was. If you can't tell, put it about halfway down and carefully see if your problem goes away. Sandy

 

did you ever set your TPS, and remove battery cable for 2 minutes, after you got it set
Quote from broken wire' on how do set TPS
The information I gave in a previous post has come from a Company that paid techs to pull information from brand new or correctly running vehicles backprobing at the ECM through all different koeo, koer, road speeds, ect., they could give a 10% variation and stay within the most common readings, this way you knew when you were out of spec or in spec, by all means this is not the same as a Dodge, Dodge uses a completely different strategy than Ford, don't try to adjust the TPS to .7, you will not get there and if you happen to make it there, the engine will not run right. I have two ways of adjusting the Throttle plates and TPS, First way, warm up the engine, backprobe the white wire at the IAC valve solenoid with the meter put into DC average, the IAC solenoid is a duty cycle circuit, so the computer turns it on and off, readjusting the air amount needed to maintain idle, backprobing the IAC gives you this value read in DV average volts, good readings are 10.5 - 11.5 dc volts average, if the numbers are higher than that, the IAC is closed more of the time and not letting air go through the IAC but more is bypassing the throttle plates or a vacuum leak, if the numbers are lower than 10.5 dc volts average the IAC solenoid is working harder than needed to maintain idle, and the plates need cleaned, throttle plates are closed to far, pcv is plugged, you may have to let numbers fall where they may on the TPS, but the should be close to .95 vdc, I have seen these numbers as low as 6 vdc average on the IAC wire, and still running, the second way is to remove the throttle body with the TPS, adjust the plates by the screw until the plates are not binding in the bore, plug in the TPS to the engine harness, turn on the ignition key and move the TPS until you have .95 vdc, may have to drill out the TPS screw holes to achieve correct spec. then put back on vehicle and final adjust by IAC dc average voltage. Should stillbe close to .95 dcv either way. Sorry for the winded posts....
hope it helps Broken Wire

 

Get your idle stop screw corrected. Dunno why people always wanna screw around with that,probably due to not understanding how the system works.

Any rate, get that corrected then if the problem persists then we may be able to go forward from there.

 

The idle screw fixed the probably but that doesn't explain why it fixed the problem because I bought the truck over a year ago with the truck backed out all the way.

 

As I mentioned, you were close to locking the plates. Probably because the carbon and gumming from the TB got worse over time. Sandy