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2008 f150 engine components question

 
  #1  
Old 04-20-2019, 09:39 PM
Bobthef150guy
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2008 f150 engine components question


Alright so I live up in mass.. as you can see salt is my enemy.. heres a few pictures of my engine bay. I have a 2008 4.6L V8 f150 122k OD. Now I've done all the work like rotors brake control arms suspension etc myself but have finally come to the engine bay... at a glance I'd like some input on what should be swapped asap to what I should just let slowly fail before replacing... with sooo much rust I have no idea where to start... any advice would be nice. Thank you.

 
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Old 04-20-2019, 10:35 PM
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Well, if it runs good, who cares about the rust. Unless there are codes being thrown, the rust is not going to hurt anything. If anything, pulleys/belts, manifold leaks, alternator/starter failure, plugs/sparks, sensors (throttle positions, mass air, cam position etc etc) that are external and showing signs of wear would be a good "start", but unless those parts are inspected and diagnosed as potential failures to a code being thrown, I'd say you are G2G. Other than that, the most common stuff is VCT, Timing components, and everything in the valve body that gives these engines their diesel sound. But again, we'd have to know mileage and wear and tear to diagnose anything potentially needing replacement. If look concerns you because of rust, I would say get some cleaning stuff (degreasers, rust pens and stuff, electronics cleaners) and get to scrubbing. Maybe hose clamps and hose inspections as well. Don't go to ocrazy without having potential issues though. Just go through it all bit by bit and a little at a time, then replace small stuff as needed. But again, we'd have to know potential issues you are having and mileage to give better advice.
 
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Old 04-21-2019, 08:34 AM
redfishtd
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I would try to stop some of that rust from growing . Sometimes oil and crud is better than a clean engine . It cuts off the oxygen part of the corrosion . I am sure some people in rust country have a good product to spray on it .I would certainly clean some of it and spray paint some . Maybe treat it with ospho over night . That's phosphoric acid and is in coke .I coat the cop bolt threads with anti-seize but if the heads badly rusted I would replace them . I live on the salt coast here and I try to keep up with house stuff using stainless and hot dipped galv stuff .
 
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Old 04-21-2019, 10:08 AM
Bobthef150guy
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The trucks got 120k on the OD.. runs an drives great had a slight rough idle but upon inspecting the air filter that was as black as the gasket attached to it an replacing it that's gone away completely. The power steering pump well what once was a power steering pump is now a rusted block of metal on my engine isnt cutting out yet but you can feel it starting to almost feel like its lagging a little when turning at slow speeds.. not sure if I should let that become an issue or change it before it fails completely..
 
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Old 04-21-2019, 03:30 PM
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You are being a hypochondriac. Do not spend a dime on anything other than recommended scheduled maintenance unless you have an issue. And to the previous poster comments about VCTs being an issue, this doesn't apply to you because your truck is equipped with the 4.6L 2V V8 not the 5.4L 3V V8 engine that has been plagued with that problem for years. If it matters, this advice is coming from a long time dealership technician. Save your money for other important pleasures in life.
 
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Old 04-21-2019, 06:54 PM
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If it ain't broke don't fix it.
 
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Old 04-23-2019, 07:37 PM
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Since the air filter was crap it was probably NEVER changed. I would also clean your MAF or even buy a new one, and also remove and clean your throttle body and buy a new gasket for that was well, then reset the PCM before you drive.

AS for your power steering, a flush (a correct flush that involves turning the wheels) will solve everything, and if it does not, then at least you know what to replace. Start cheap by replacing fluids, not replacing parts. What I did, was flushed with mercon v (castrol I think), then once I got all the old fluid out after a couple full turns, I filled it with Amsoil ATF. Was noidy at full turn before, not a single audible tone now. You should also do your coolant (which is a PITA on these trucks if you do it correctly, by not using tap water through a hose) and then your dif's. Don't stop there either. If they never replaced the air filter, they never flushed brakes, or replaced (not flushed) tranny fluid/filter or transfer case fluid either. Do it all. Save your truck.
 
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Old 04-23-2019, 08:01 PM
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You can buy a RUST CONVERTER that is a water based "paint" that you brush on rusty part. There is a chemical reaction and the rust turns to a BLACK HARD SURFACE.... I have done this a couple times to our 2002 Explorer around the front end shocks / spring / fame / hub/ A frame / etc ........ it works pretty good for a couple years, then you clean it good and redo.... you can also paint the parts after the converter dries, If you wish.
 
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Old 04-23-2019, 08:05 PM
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I have used something like this... Just make sure that your getting a CHEMICAL REACTION, and not just paint.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rust-Conver...rqshXGSR3dOWWQ
 
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Old 04-24-2019, 09:15 AM
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I wonder about that product fluid film that Eric o uses on his you tube channel . His channel is southmain auto ? He is a good mech .I have learned a lot from him . He cleans everything real good then sprays fluid film on it . He even rust proofed his new vehicle with fluid film .
That power steering pump is a bear to get off on my 5.4 so I would try anything to not have to dismount it first .
 
 


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