Hi, total newbie to diesels but appreciate the help. Just finished the full install of a 7.3 idi in my truck. Got it started and running only to find it leaking diesel from the front and tracked it down to the front - first injector area on the passenger's side. There is a hole or damage to the metal part that appears to form the return line.

Is this part of the actual injector or what is it called? Where can I find a replacement?

Also is it normal for the glow plug relay to click loudly as it is in the wait to start mode?

Hopefully the last question of the day, any suggestions on a good brand of starter ?

 

It's not metal, it's plastic. I think it's called a fuel return cup. You can get a whole fuel return kit with all the cups, o-rings, and hose for about $40. You take the nut off holding the steel tube and that cap lifts off. There's two o-rings on the top of the injector that seals to that cap. Best bet is to replace the whole return system with a kit. Any leaks there will make for really hard starting as the system will suck air in while parked.

Repeated clicking of the GP relay usually means you have some bad glow plugs. You can check them with an ohm meter, I don't remember the spec but I believe it's about 2 ohms or less. Only use the OEM glow plugs. You can buy them on ebay or wherever, but make sure they're the originals.

 

Thanks will look up the return setup kit.

I bought 8 new motorcraft glow plugs, were in the original bags. Anything else to check?

The starter is old and I want to replace it if there are any reccomendations?

 

if the clicking starts after the WTS light goes out, that is normal. that is the "after glow" cycle to help the engine stay running after first start.

 

Does it start clicking right after you turn the key on, or a few seconds after?

If the glow plugs are good then it could be broken or high resistance in the wires or connectors to them, or maybe a bad controller. The controller under the relay uses the resistance in the system to gauge how hot the glow plugs are, as they heat up their resistance goes up. If there's anything in the system with high resistance the controller will think the glow plugs are already hot. Check the wires for any damage and check the connectors to be sure they have a tight grip. If any of them slip on & off easily they're not making a good connection. They can be squeezed & tightened up if they got stretched open. Also check the connections at the relay and controller output to the glow plugs. The big squiggly strip of metal between the relay and controller gets really hot during a proper cycle so beware of touching that. In your case it probably won't get to the usual super hot, but it'll still get warm if there's any power flowing. If there's no power the relay has died or it's not getting power to it. I didn't think of this 'till now, but start by checking for power at the relay input, then the output when you turn the key on, the two big posts. The input is straight battery power so it should always have juice and the output should have juice when the relay clicks on.

One trick to finding high resistance is temperature. After the glow plugs go through a cycle all the connectors should be a little warm, if you find one that's considerably hotter it has a bad connection, if you find one that's cold it's not getting any power through it. Since you're not getting a proper cycle you may have to cycle the key a few times and keep feeling around. You can also probe them with a test light to verify they're getting power.

Also, it's helpful if you put your location in. There may be someone near you willing to lend a hand and/or recommend a place to take it to.

 

Before you replace the starter make sure your battery cables are in good shape. The starter draws so much current that the battery cables on our trucks can easily become crispy.