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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

1990 f150 wont stay running

 
  #1  
Old 04-19-2019, 11:01 AM
Grinding_INC
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1990 f150 wont stay running

Let me apologize in advance, im new to the fourm so I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this or not. So I got the truck from a friend of mine after it had sat for 2 years or so. Put a new battery in it and it fired right up, at first I just did plugs wires oil new egr and a air filter. Truck ran great no problems. After about 3 weeks of daily driving to and from work I started having issues. The first problem was a hard sputter I would call it. Rpms would disappear for a split second and come back but would do it back to back and the truck would lurch hard as if i hit something. Then one day it just died and wouldn't start at all. Got it towed home, I replaced the tfi module and a fuel pump. Turned out my fuel pump relay was bad. Replaced the relay and it finally started again. Went to work the next day and the whole 8 mile drive it would just shut off as if I turned the key off so i went to get a new relay harness, swapped it in but still dying randomly until it just quit for good. Got towed a second time. Then I replaced the ignition coil distributor cap and rotor and the AIC module. Truck still wouldnt run. Swapped back to original TFI and it ran but very rough. Returned the new one I had just bought for another and truck ran good for a day now I'm back to it just dying randomly. Again I apologize for the length of this post but I'm just getting frustrated and tired of being stuck on the side of the road. Any advice would be appreciated. It's a 1990 f150 5.0 302 with 134xxx miles. Thanks again
 
  #2  
Old 04-19-2019, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Grinding_INC View Post
it had sat for 2 years or so.
Well, you got the basic tune-up out of the way.....

I recommend you try to run the KOEO & KOER Self-Test; https://www.scribd.com/doc/34996350/...-and-Procedure

Amazon Amazon


Check for Codes, run the KOEO & KOER Self-Test, let your computer tell you what it knows;
Engines are easier to diagnose over the internet when all the codes are listed, and in order of test.
KOEO - (O) Self-Test Codes = ?
KOEO - (C)(CM) Continuous Memory Codes = ?
KOER - (R) Self-Test Codes = ?

Check Base Timing?
Check Timing Advance?

Do you have any Non-Stock modifications?
(Air Intake? Smog System? Exhaust System? Ignition System?)

Also, I would put in a couple of bottles of ISO HEET Gas-line Antifreeze to soak up any water left over from the 2 years of sitting.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/ISO-HEET-...EaAgwSEALw_wcB
 
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Old 04-19-2019, 11:54 AM
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I'd look to identify if the issue is related to ignition, fuel or possibly both. On the fuel side, you could have a bad pump, filter, or relay contacts, etc. You may want to get a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the pressure under test/light driving to see how it reacts when the problem occurs. If its ignition, you may have a bad pickup coil that is in the distributor, bad coil contacts, etc. Lastly, don't discount simple issues like a bad ground near the battery posts. I believe there is a dedicated ground for the computer system. Far reaching could be a restriction in the exhaust ( bad cat).

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:01 PM
Grinding_INC
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No after market accessories other than rims. Exhaust had 4 holes so I just cut it off and straight piped it. As for the codes I cant find the paper with explanations but it gives me 63 4times 18 and 33. Still not sure as to how to go about fixing them.
 
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Grinding_INC View Post
As for the codes I cant find the paper with explanations
See Code Listing here; Electronic Engine Control (EEC) - Gary's Garagemahal (the Bullnose bible)

For Code # 63; http://www.fuelinjectedford.com/page30.html

For Code # 33; If your EGR-Valve is leaking at Idle, your engine will run bad at Idle, when Decelerating and at WOT.
Disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the EGR-Valve to see if that make a difference.
You may have to replace the EGR-Valve, or block it off to test,,,,
You can take off the EVP sensor and tap the EGR-Valve rod to try to close it all the way, this would be temporary to test.

EDIT; 33 can also mean that the EGR-Valve is not opening when it should during the test. In this case, you will want to monitor the vacuum on the vacuum line that operates the EGR-V, and test the EGR-V's ability to hold vacuum and open it's valve.
 

Last edited by vjsimone; 04-20-2019 at 06:53 PM. Reason: Adding text;
 


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