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How do I fix lifter tap/loose rocker? Does the type of cam matter here? 1973 302

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How do I fix lifter tap/loose rocker? Does the type of cam matter here? 1973 302

 
  #16  
Old 04-17-2019, 11:25 AM
Dweber319
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Originally Posted by baddad457 View Post
Windsors have 6 bolts holding the valve covers, Clevelands had 8 bolts. The later 80's SBF heads can be Id'd with casting letters on the outside corners next to the valve cover rails (right front and left rear corner) all others have the casting numbers under one intake runner, only accessible after pulling the intake. 73 heads would have positive stop rocker studs and rail rockers (these have "ears" on each side of the valve stems to keep them aligned on the valve stem) only way to make these adjustable is using washers under the nuts.
Alright. I'll check the bolts when I get a chance. on the chance it is an 80's head when you say right front do you mean driver side of the truck closer to the radiator and opposite for left rear?

If it is the stock heads and they're not adjustable rockers then is making sure it's not the rockers causing the noise just a matter of tightening the nut and checking for wear?
 
  #17  
Old 04-17-2019, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Dweber319 View Post
Alright. I'll check the bolts when I get a chance. on the chance it is an 80's head when you say right front do you mean driver side of the truck closer to the radiator and opposite for left rear?

If it is the stock heads and they're not adjustable rockers then is making sure it's not the rockers causing the noise just a matter of tightening the nut and checking for wear?
Right front = passenger side lower front corner, left rear = driver's side lower rear corner. Those with an "S" there are E6SE heads, "T" would be E7TE, "GT" would be GT40 with the larger valves, GTP would be GT40P heads (with the smaller std sized exhaust valves) Non adjustable rockers would be torqued down to a certain spec (about 25 ft/lbs) and bottom out at that spec. You can get some adjustment as I said before using a thick washer between the nut and the fulcrum. Positive stop rockers had a shoulder that the rocker fulcrum bottoms out on, later 78-up heads had pedestal mount rockers with a 5/16" bolt holding the rocker down on a pedestal inside the rocker. You cannot adjust the pedestals using the hold down bolt. These can be adjusted somewhat using shims under the pedestal or using different sized pushrods.
 
  #18  
Old 04-17-2019, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by baddad457 View Post
Right front = passenger side lower front corner, left rear = driver's side lower rear corner. Those with an "S" there are E6SE heads, "T" would be E7TE, "GT" would be GT40 with the larger valves, GTP would be GT40P heads (with the smaller std sized exhaust valves) Non adjustable rockers would be torqued down to a certain spec (about 25 ft/lbs) and bottom out at that spec. You can get some adjustment as I said before using a thick washer between the nut and the fulcrum. Positive stop rockers had a shoulder that the rocker fulcrum bottoms out on, later 78-up heads had pedestal mount rockers with a 5/16" bolt holding the rocker down on a pedestal inside the rocker. You cannot adjust the pedestals using the hold down bolt. These can be adjusted somewhat using shims under the pedestal or using different sized pushrods.
That's great info! I'll take a look either tonight or tomorrow and see what I've got
 
  #19  
Old 04-17-2019, 05:56 PM
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Well I got home from work and went to investigate with what has been suggested here. First thing I did was fire up the truck and saw a puff of white/grey smoke coming out of the tailpipe but just the one puff on start up. So I'm guessing I have some drip down in the valves. But to the topic at hand I tried the stethoscope test with a length of hose. The noise was incredibly obvious when I held the hose to the header at the #6 cylinder port. It was audible if I held the hose to the valve cover right above that port and got quite as I moved up the cover. I knew the header gaskets were bad because the PO told me he changed the gaskets but never scraped off the old ones. I guess I just haven't driven the truck enough to notice that before now or perhaps it's gotten worse. But I've already got a set of gaskets to go on. I guess I'll start with that and go from there. I did pick up some oil and a new filter on my way home as well so I might as well do that while I'm at it.

The covers also have 6 bolts. So that means I have the Windsor heads right?
 
  #20  
Old 04-17-2019, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Dweber319 View Post
Well I got home from work and went to investigate with what has been suggested here. First thing I did was fire up the truck and saw a puff of white/grey smoke coming out of the tailpipe but just the one puff on start up. So I'm guessing I have some drip down in the valves. But to the topic at hand I tried the stethoscope test with a length of hose. The noise was incredibly obvious when I held the hose to the header at the #6 cylinder port. It was audible if I held the hose to the valve cover right above that port and got quite as I moved up the cover. I knew the header gaskets were bad because the PO told me he changed the gaskets but never scraped off the old ones. I guess I just haven't driven the truck enough to notice that before now or perhaps it's gotten worse. But I've already got a set of gaskets to go on. I guess I'll start with that and go from there. I did pick up some oil and a new filter on my way home as well so I might as well do that while I'm at it.

The covers also have 6 bolts. So that means I have the Windsor heads right?
Yea, they're Windsor heads. Header gaskets ? Buy a set of soft copper gaskets and when you install them, tighten the crap out of them, keep going around till they're fully compressed. Once they are, you'll never have to tighten them again. They're not cheap, but they never leak afterwards nor come loose.
 
  #21  
Old 04-18-2019, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by baddad457 View Post
Yea, they're Windsor heads. Header gaskets ? Buy a set of soft copper gaskets and when you install them, tighten the crap out of them, keep going around till they're fully compressed. Once they are, you'll never have to tighten them again. They're not cheap, but they never leak afterwards nor come loose.
I've got some on the shelf that I just haven't done yet. guess I'll be doing that this weekend.
 

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