1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

U Joint Flange Removal

  #76  
Old 04-19-2019, 05:08 PM
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It is amazing how good, steady, even push/pull works; even Thor and John Henry would put their hammers down for even pressure.
 
  #77  
Old 04-19-2019, 05:11 PM
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From Post 35......
Upon assembly, tighten the nut enough to get the rotating torque back to 8 inch pounds; according to the shop manual narrative you then want to tighten nut more to add 8-14 additional inch pounds. Therefore upon assembly your final target is 16-22 inch pounds of rotating torque.
 
  #78  
Old 04-19-2019, 05:16 PM
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There was just a couple different opinions on what to take it to, which is why I asked again. My seal kit said to take it back to original specs.

I'm not doubting you, just curious. Why do you take want the rotational torque to be higher than what it should be with a new bearing? The main reason I ask this is because a used one is supposed to be less.
 
  #79  
Old 04-19-2019, 05:35 PM
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I am just saying what is in the Ford Shop Manual under the task of replacing the pinion seal when the pinion bearings are not replaced. They made it, so I suppose the engineers they paid had a legitimate reason for stating the torque is stepped up a bit. Honestly, I don't think it is going to fly apart tomorrow if you don't. I worked for a Caterpillar dealership for years and was always a firm believer in following specs.
 
  #80  
Old 04-19-2019, 06:04 PM
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What page is that on? 4-14 says to take it 1/4 turn past the original nut location (currently I'm about 1/2 turn beyond the starting point). Page 4-54 just says 17-27 in lbs for new bearings and 8-12 in lb for used bearings (if I went by that, I'd be correct now). Those numbers are in the table called "torque limits", which to me means dont exceed those ranges.

I dont have a clue, that's why I'm asking and I want to do the right thing. I must be overlooking the text you're speaking of.
 
  #81  
Old 04-19-2019, 06:11 PM
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I am looking at the 1966 Ford Truck Shop Manual. You have a 1964, correct? If you have the Ford Shop Manual for your year and you are within the specs outlined therein then I would say leave it where you got it. Either way I think you will be fine for miles and miles to come.
 
  #82  
Old 04-19-2019, 06:16 PM
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Yea, mines a 64, and a 64 manual. These are the only two things I saw unless I'm over looking something.
 
  #83  
Old 04-19-2019, 06:18 PM
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Thanks again for the help from everyone, it definitely made it alot easier.
 
  #84  
Old 04-19-2019, 06:19 PM
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So it looks like opinions of those writing the manuals differed slightly b/w 64 and 66. I would say u are golden.
 
  #85  
Old 04-19-2019, 06:20 PM
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Perfect. Thanks again
 
  #86  
Old 04-19-2019, 06:36 PM
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Yes I agree. Leave it there.
 
  #87  
Old 04-19-2019, 07:16 PM
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The FTE Gang comes through again!!!!!!
 
  #88  
Old 04-19-2019, 07:37 PM
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Nows it's off to axle shaft seals, steering box seal, engine insulators, and then hopefully off to the DMV for some plates.
 
  #89  
Old 04-19-2019, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Mearntain
Nows it's off to axle shaft seals, steering box seal, engine insulators, and then hopefully off to the DMV for some plates.
Sounds like the seal puller is going to get some more action!!

BarnieTrk
 
  #90  
Old 04-19-2019, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by BarnieTrk
Sounds like the seal puller is going to get some more action!!

BarnieTrk
Hopefully I'll get to use my chef boyardee ravioli can this time too to place the axle seal. I tried using it for the pinion seal but it was just barely too small. I wasted a whole can for nothing...
 

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