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Misfires on 4,5,8. I知 going to document what I try.

 
  #31  
Old 04-16-2019, 09:46 PM
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Well, if you pick up a project this is the sort of thing to expect.

If you have a Ford tech available that's great. Not sure if I missed it, but what's the mileage on this engine?
 
  #32  
Old 04-16-2019, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by johnfist View Post

If you have a Ford tech available that's great. Not sure if I missed it, but what's the mileage on this engine?
~140k.

Tech put one hand on a beer and the other hand on the cam and said if he were me, he壇 put it back together and see if the misfire is corrected. If not, I値l want to do a leak down test to diagnose valves and/or rings anyway before tearing it down further than this.
 
  #33  
Old 04-16-2019, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Im50fast View Post
i don稚 know how to multi-quote so I bolded in your message.

I completely agree...

溺ight as well get the replacement head rebuilt. 溺ight as well do the full valve job... guides... seals...
oh crap don稚 forget the lifters... sumbee, now we have to get the exhaust manifolds surfaced and the studs replaced...

for crap sake it痴 half apart so let痴 just do the other cylinder head while it痴 down...

a thousand + dollars later ....
Thank you. I知 absolutely grateful for the advice and suggestions. My goal is essentially to get her running good so I can do smoky burnouts for my 5 year old son. More or less.
 
  #34  
Old 04-18-2019, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by wbubble View Post
Thank you. I知 absolutely grateful for the advice and suggestions. My goal is essentially to get her running good so I can do smoky burnouts for my 5 year old son. More or less.
i really enjoy the honesty and the simple fun of that goal.
You池e gonna need some old junk tires on the rear, and maybe lower gear set and probably Mikes 5Star tune. And powerbrake it. On wet pavement.
Any-who; you値l make it happen. I知 just saying; the truck痴 very heavy.
Be sure to post pics/vids.
 
  #35  
Old 04-18-2019, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Im50fast View Post
i really enjoy the honesty and the simple fun of that goal.
You池e gonna need some old junk tires on the rear, and maybe lower gear set and probably Mikes 5Star tune. And powerbrake it. On wet pavement.
Any-who; you値l make it happen. I知 just saying; the truck痴 very heavy.
Be sure to post pics/vids.
lol sure will!

got her put back together. Idling rough but no codes. I値l drive her around the block by this weekend to see if I can get a code or 2.
 
  #36  
Old 04-22-2019, 06:42 PM
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Gonna need a head.

Confirmed with the Ford tech today. Low compression on 4. It痴 valves.

Now the next big question: do I tackle the head myself or have him do it?
 
  #37  
Old 04-23-2019, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by wbubble View Post
Confirmed with the Ford tech today. Low compression on 4. It痴 valves.

Now the next big question: do I tackle the head myself or have him do it?
depends how deep your pockets are lol

if you致e wrenched engines before then you can do it. It does take two people for the actual head removal.
Youll have to remove all the top and front accessories Ansul then the front timing cover.
Theres a lot of 妬f I知 in this deep then I 僧ight as well also do the...樗
So make your decisions now and stick to them.
 
  #38  
Old 04-23-2019, 04:45 AM
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Man I have about $1,000 (plus labor) in mine recently:

-timing set
-gaskets
-lifters
-spark plugs, injector o rings, temp sensor
-head gaskets and head bolts
-machine shop rebuilding both heads & exhaust manifolds
-maybe more I can稚 think of now
-fluids, clean up, battery, etc.

and we reassembled my 325,000 mile v10 thinking the whole time: 杜an I really hope there痴 no issues with pistons,rings,bottom end,etc
so im here to say you should consider getting a whole long block. I知 not saying DO it. I知 just saying you should consider it now. Because you値l definitely be thinking about it later like me.

However, I致e driven mine 200 miles since the work and it seems good. Could go either way. Just depends on your preferences.
 
  #39  
Old 06-04-2019, 01:56 PM
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Alrighty, here we go! I started disassembly last night on the ol' V10.

Here's the plan:
1: remove head with motor in truck and cab firmly in place. I've seen tricks regarding removing motor mounts and lowering the front of the motor to facilitate getting the passenger side head out on the 6.0 diesel group so I may try that. I'm also considering removing the heater box although I'd prefer not to discharge the a/c...
2. Figure out which valves are damaged and confirm (fingers crossed) that there's no damage to the seats or the head.
3. If it's just the valves, buy new individual valves and lap them into the head myself. I've never done anything like this.
4. Reassemble in reverse order.

This is a budget repair and I don't plan to replace anything else unless it's a gasket or head stud. I'm aware that there are other ways to go about it. I'd love any advice or tricks as to make disassembly easier. Thanks!





 
  #40  
Old 06-05-2019, 07:41 PM
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I hate to be negative, but it's easier to remove front bumper, grill, lights, and crossmember. .....yank motor and do a head R&R out of vehicle.

3 hrs to pull front off.
Couple hrs to disconnect exhaust, and stuff
1 hr to pull motor.

Than things get easy. Pull timing stuff and head with motor out.

This is how I did it. May take longer bit I'm a 1 man band and longer but easier is my moto.
 
  #41  
Old 06-05-2019, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rock2610d View Post
I hate to be negative, but it's easier to remove front bumper, grill, lights, and crossmember. .....yank motor and do a head R&R out of vehicle.

3 hrs to pull front off.
Couple hrs to disconnect exhaust, and stuff
1 hr to pull motor.

Than things get easy. Pull timing stuff and head with motor out.

This is how I did it. May take longer bit I'm a 1 man band and longer but easier is my moto.
I don稚 think that痴 negative at all. Everyone has their own preference. I知 a one man crew as well and I try to reduce time where I can, as long as I知 doing things competently.

So so far I致e spent about 2 hours on her and I知 ready to pull the timing cover (had to pick up a harmonic balancer removal tool today). I have the radiator out and there was plenty of room for my big impact gun on the crank bolt.

I decided to to to try out this cordless electric ratchet from Harbor Freight that has cut my ratchet time down my at least 70%. So far I highly recommend it.

If if I can save 4 hours total or more by leaving the engine in, that痴 good for me and I see stuck parts as a challenge rather than frustration.


I worried that it痴 length would be a problem but I haven稚 had any trouble at all.

Needs a good vacuuming!
 
  #42  
Old 06-06-2019, 04:10 AM
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I took this path recently...

Me and a buddy removed the heads on my v10 E350 in recent months. Yes 摘350; a van. I know nothing of F series. But it looks like the difference would be your worst clearance/access issues will be the rear- the firewall. Just saying - that痴 all you.
Our access/clearance issues were vertical, but we had easy access to the rear of the engine from the van interior with the doghouse removed.
It definitely very difficult, but doable. I truly think we池e the first/only guys to remove a modular head in an E series with the engine remaining firmly in the vehicle.

So I thought I壇 throw in some info from my experience with my van, to try and help.
All my advice applies to the 2valve engine, so if you have a 3valve; I don稚 know what would apply.

-Theres a sensor on the driver side head at the front. We broke it. Seemed like an easy $20 part to find and buy, but it turned into three trips and two parts guys researching it before getting it correct.

-there痴 an o ring on the long tube in the engine valley that is wise to replace while you池e in there. Or so I致e heard.

-the head bolts are surprisingly long; you can not remove them. What you have to do it get a piece of cardboard or sheet metal to slide between the head and block as you unscrew each bolt. Then remove the head with the bolts loosely in the holes. This obviously a two person job. Someone on here suggested getting rubber tubing or hose, and slitting it痴 length; then installing a section to each head bolt to hold each bolt up. Seems like it would work but I saw the idea afterwards.

-head bolts must be replaced with new, and follow the weird tightening sequence.

-if you remove the exhaust manifolds, be sure to get them machined, or at least checked by a machine shop. And replace all the studs while you池e at it. Especially if it痴 the passenger side head.

-driver side head has the balance shaft. It痴 even tighter access to remove.

Thats all all I can think of now. Good luck. Post pics!!
 
  #43  
Old 06-06-2019, 03:13 PM
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@Im50fast, thanks for the suggestions! I have an E350 with a v8, and can't imagine pulling the heads with the engine still in the van. Nice work.

My plan includes removing just the passenger side head with the exhaust manifold attached (heavy, I know), so I hope to stay away from the driver's side. To battle the firewall issue I hope that by lowering the engine I can gain enough headroom so I don't have to remove the heater box.

I'd heard that zip ties work well to keep the head studs up in the rear so I intent to try that but your cardboard idea is a good one.
 
  #44  
Old 06-06-2019, 04:23 PM
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Interesting stuff. I've always had air tools handy, but battery-operated stuff is started to really come along in a big way.

Great thread, BTW
 
  #45  
Old 06-07-2019, 02:42 PM
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Definatelly get a good surface put on the head.

The OEM ford head gasket calls for a certain smoothness or it will fail. Block and head....RC something I don't recall.

There is an aftermarket head gasket that calls out much rougher tolerances. Forgot the name though.

Here is a brand new OEM cylinder head with valves. Not refurbished so you don't have to use a thicker head gasket to keep timing right.

9C2Z-6049-AA



https://parts.beechmontford.com/oem-...LXYxMC1nYXM%3D

For $800 I think it's a steal.
 

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