'95 F150 Battery
#1
#2
Not sure how you landed where you were, but you will get better results in this forum for your truck.
You should be able to go to any auto parts on-line look up and enter your truck's info and find out what size battery it takes. Engine size and maybe a couple other items are needed in addition to the year and model.
Good luck!
You should be able to go to any auto parts on-line look up and enter your truck's info and find out what size battery it takes. Engine size and maybe a couple other items are needed in addition to the year and model.
Good luck!
#3
I got the biggest one i could find that has the post on the proper side of the battery....its around 1000 cranking amps....Infact ive never used anything smaller in any of my trucks. I have a 250 or 300 amp alternator on this truck with 1/0 gauge hot/grounds and alt wire but thats got nothing to do with the big battery......Ive just always used the biggest i could buy.
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#7
Group 65 is the factory size. They range from $50 for crap ones to $300 for an Odyssey. I use Duralast Golds in my trucks, they are 850CCA in my area.
3Gs have an internal fan. 2Gs are external. I swear I read there are 105A and 130A 3Gs, mine came off a 3.0L Taurus 15 years or so back. Even a 105A 3G beats a 65-80A 2G. Remove factory charge wires, toss in trash. You need to connect the green/black to the voltage regulator as the switched 12V. White wire is from VR to stator. Yellow runs to power stud on back of the unit. I ran a 4awg wire to the solenoid, the battery would also work. The bracket on my '88 took some modest grinding. One of the best mods I have performed on the truck.
Look for a 1-7/8" pulley to spin it a bit faster at idle. ASP is where mine came from.
3Gs have an internal fan. 2Gs are external. I swear I read there are 105A and 130A 3Gs, mine came off a 3.0L Taurus 15 years or so back. Even a 105A 3G beats a 65-80A 2G. Remove factory charge wires, toss in trash. You need to connect the green/black to the voltage regulator as the switched 12V. White wire is from VR to stator. Yellow runs to power stud on back of the unit. I ran a 4awg wire to the solenoid, the battery would also work. The bracket on my '88 took some modest grinding. One of the best mods I have performed on the truck.
Look for a 1-7/8" pulley to spin it a bit faster at idle. ASP is where mine came from.
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#9
I got the biggest one i could find that has the post on the proper side of the battery....its around 1000 cranking amps....Infact ive never used anything smaller in any of my trucks. I have a 250 or 300 amp alternator on this truck with 1/0 gauge hot/grounds and alt wire but thats got nothing to do with the big battery......Ive just always used the biggest i could buy.
#10
how can you tell the amperage of the alternator if you picked one out of a wrecking yard? i think i read somewhere that the higher amperage alternators have 4 holes between the ribs but my memory isn't what it used to be can somebody confirm this bit of info. the holes part not the crappy memory, my wife reminds me of that all the time.
Last edited by dremtofford; 04-23-2019 at 02:53 PM. Reason: more info.
#11
how can you tell the amperage of the alternator if you picked one out of a wrecking yard? i think i read somewhere that the higher amperage alternators have 4 holes between the ribs but my memory isn't what it used to be can somebody confirm this bit of info. the holes part not the crappy memory, my wife reminds me of that all the time.
My understanding based on reading and research. It may be wrong.
2 hole - large case
4 hole is the small case.
The size of the case does not control the amperage output. The one linked above is 110 Amp with 7 inch mounting ears.
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#14
850 cold ive got a 950 cold around here somewhere but they hard to find now it seems