Hi All, we have a 2001 F150 Supercrew (2 wheel drive, 5.4L) and we always have a nightmare trying to start the truck after changing the battery. Every single time we buy a new battery, take the old one out and put the new one in, the truck will not start. We have had the places we take the truck to to put in a new battery have the same problem. Everyone blames it on the PATS system. After scouring the internet for different ways to get the truck started after changing the battery, and trying several methods, we have eventually been able to get it going, at least until the next time the battery is taken out or disconnected. And, sometimes the method that worked last time, doesn't work the next time. Really a pain in the butt!

I have seen on the internet ECM battery savers, either 9 volt or 12 volt versions, that you hook-up through the cigarette lighter/convenience outlet,that are supposed to hold all the ECM settings while the vehicle battery is changed. Has anyone used this type of device before? Do they work? Will it work to keep the PATS system from stopping the truck from starting? If not, is there another or better device that will work? I am really tired of the nightmare of the PATS system preventing the truck from starting whenever the battery is changed or disconnected.

Thanks in advance to all who offer help and advice!

 

I haven't used the ECM memory savers you've mention, and keep in mind those only work if the lighter socket is still powered with the key off. What I do when removing or swapping a battery is to connect a battery charger to the system and I never lose the ECM, PATS, or Radio memory. Just make sure the red battery cable doesn't touch ground when doing this.

 

 

Oh, I probably should have put more information in my post. In the past, whenever we have changed out the battery for a new one, we have the PATS starting issue. I had work done at a Ford dealership once and right after we paid for the repair, then drove home, we couldn't get the truck to start 10 minutes later. We called the dealer and the service manager came to our house (now that's customer service). Anyway, he removed the negative battery terminal for about 5 or 10 minutes, then once he reattached the battery cable to the negative cable, he told me to push one of the buttons on the key remote. I did and then we had no more problems. The guy told me there is a little 'glitch' in some Fords and this is all it takes to get them started. We didn't have any more problems until a few years later when the battery died and had to be replaced.

My first thought was thanks for coming over to our house and getting the truck started. Later I was thinking if there is some kind of 'glitch' that a Ford dealership service manager knows about, that means he has seen it a few times. And I am sure that the Ford Motor Company knows about it. So why don't they fix it? Oh well, just like a lot of things I guess. Anyway, over the years, whenever the battery was changed or removed for other work, we have gone through this PATS issue. However, the 'remove the negative battery cable for 10 minutes and then click the remote with-in 10 seconds of reconnecting method' doesn't work anymore. I have googled the problem and there are lots and lots of posts about the same PATS issue so I know I am not alone.

In any event, the last time I had the hood up on the F150 I noticed the date on the battery life means that it is almost due to be replaced and I am looking for a way to prevent the no-start problem that always happens when the battery is changed. I saw the little 9 and 12 volt battery savers on Amazon and I wondered if anyone here had the same problem, and/or if anyone had ever used these type of devices before. When I google these devices there are a few posts about there being a chance to cause some troubles if you use them and I don't want to add to my problems.

 

So at the dealer, the truck DID start, you drove home, then it would not start the SECOND TIME ? That doesn't make much sense ? ............ Use a small battery or charger with alligator clips to keep power on the cables as mentioned. Don't jump to the battery end, go to the other end of the cable away from the battery.

 

I cab't remember why the truck was at the dealership but I know it wasn't for a battery problem. When we picked the truck up, after we paid at the cashier for the work, the truck was brought to us and it was already running when I got it. I just jumped inside and went home. a while after being at home I had to go somewhere and that's when the truck wouldn't start (crank but not start). We called the dealership and the service manager drove over to our house. When the service manager got to our house, he confirmed the truck would not start. That's when he told me about a little problem that he/they/Ford knew about dealing with the PATS system and so he removed the negative battery terminal. After 10 minutes he reconnected the negative terminal, and when he did so, he had me click the lock/unlock button on the key FOB. (he said we had to click the key FOB button with-in 5 to 10 seconds of reconnecting the negative battery terminal).

All I know is that the truck started right up, and we had no more problems. The next time we had to change the battery, a couple of years later, I remembered what the service manager told me and clicked the key FOB right after connecting the negative terminal. The truck started right up. A few years later when we had to change out the battery, we followed those same directions but we were unable to get the truck to start. After doing some research on the internet, we found several other methods to follow after changing the battery. Out of several methods, only one worked. Again, a few years later there was some reason the battery had to be removed/replaced and once again, it would crank, no start. After some more research, and trying several methods, we got it to start.

Don't know why this happens except that it has something to do with the PATS system, and if you scan the internet you will see I am not alone with this problem. Either way, I am just trying to find a way to avoid it again in the future when the truck battery reaches the end of it's life.

 

Do you have a factory or aftermarket SECURITY system installed ?

 

Factory alarm. I mean it was already on the the truck when we purchased it new at the dealer

 

That would be a dealer-installed accessory rather than a factory installed.

Next time it happens, turn the key to RUN for 30-45 seconds until the anti-scan function times out and the light stops flashing, then try starting it. It might just be an accidental trigger of the anti-scan feature.

 

How can you tell if you have a factory alarm versus one installed by the dealer?

 

There were no "factory installed" alarms. Dealer-installed option.