​​​​​Here she is. It's not a daily driver. I mainly use it for camping out in the mountains in the summer and desert shooting trips in the winter. This made me realize that I need better pictures





The 38R has since been replaced with the KC38R, along with a 4in outlet.

 

 

There are so many things to hate about working on a van's engine, but in the case of a PS I think I'd rather it be in a van.

 

Nice looking van, and I wonder how far a smog shop will go to see the turbo? Make sure to have a lot of stuff piled into the engine cover cup holders and storage bin.

 

Your positive attitude and ignorant assertions are duly noted. The value of a shop's licence and technician's certificate is $150-$200 per vehicle around here.

The place I posted is legit and won't do any illegal stuff. He'll do me the curtesy of not logging a "tampered/modified" fail if I have something illegal and just refuse to test it which is completely legal, once a vehicle is branded as "tampered/modified" it can be harder to find a shop that'll pass it. Shops are encouraged to fail vehicles so they want to test & fail rather than let you know it's going to fail before starting the test.

 

Some smog shops charge extra if they have to remove the van dog house for inspection!

 

Not looking to pick a fight with you even though you clearly want one, but you are completely mistaken about how smog shops work in California.

 

You will definitely need to find a friendly shop. You would have no way of passing at mine.

My inspection last year I got called out for no red/green lines and a mechanical wastegate controller.

I did pass with my Hydra, no AIH, and no EBPV but I did have all my non-OEM wiring routed in looming so it looks as stock as possible and adds to the mess to deter any inspectors.

My shop looks for GARRETT stamped on the turbo housing so the stock turbo and a 38R are my only choices.

The AIH and EBPV codes are soft (do not illuminate the SES) and will pass a smog check if they are set (I have that t-shirt).

 

What specifically am I mistaken about? It would be good for all of us to know. Shane's problem should be solved today so a slight thread derailment shouldn't be a problem.

 

I'd like to know if you can go outside your county of registration and get smogged? I know you use to be able to, but I know I read somewhere that has changed. I believe that is because different counties have different rules, and there is even some that don't smog. If you can answer this I would appreciate it. And with a van, I wouldn't think they take the motor cover off do they? If they do, well your in trouble, if not they probably won't even see the turbo.
Did you notice a difference between the 38R and KC when you changed it? Besides the noise.

 

Q. "Can you go outside your county of registration and get smogged?"

A. Sure. You can get smogged in any county you like. However, if the DMV paperwork states that the vehicle must be smogged at a certified STAR station, then you must go to a STAR station and get smogged. Still that STAR can be in any county in California that has the equipment to do BAR-OIS test, which by definition of being STAR certified, they will. Diesel vehicles are not subject to dynamometer testing, so lacking that test equipment requirement greatly expands the number of smog testing stations that can handle testing diesel vehicles. The more important question, however, is:

Q. Does it matter?

A. No. Not one whit. The vehicle is smogged per the county of registration... and more specifically... per the zip code of registration, because some counties have two different smog areas within the same county. So it doesn't matter if you take the truck to a remote rural area to get smog tested. There is no benefit to spending the fuel money and time to drive out to the boonies to get smog certified. The vehicle is subject to the rules of the area where registered, not where driven, and not even where garaged. So, only if the vehicle is REGISTERED in a rural remote area, will the vehicle be subject to the different rules of that area.

Q. What are these so called "areas"? "different counties have different rules, and there is even some that don't smog."

A. There are three areas. Enhanced, Basic, and Change of Ownership. For purposes of 1998 and newer diesel vehicles that are less than 14,000 GVWR, the Enhanced and Basic areas are almost the same, and require biennial inspections (Every two years). Vehicles that are registered in the Change of Ownership area are subject to inspection upon change of ownership, or upon introduction to the state of California, but are not subject to biennial inspection.

Q. How do I know what "area" I'm in?

A. Enter your registration zip code here: https://www.bar.ca.gov/pubwebquery/Z...ZipLookup.aspx

Q. And with a van, I wouldn't think they take the motor cover off do they?

A. Yes, they do. That was one of the main reasons I got rid of my 1979 vans. I absolutely hated having filthy strangers futzing around inside the interior of my vans, screwing up the dog house... power tripping their "authority" by insisting that only THEY could remove the dog house, breaking latches trying to put the dog house back when I had made it clear that they could leave the engine uncovered and I would put it back. I got sick of their grease on my seats and their smell in the air of my interior. To me, it felt like an invasion of my space. (This was obviously before OBDII inspections which require inspectors to get inside the vehicle anyway to plug in data and operate the accelerator). Still, an inspector sitting in the driver's seat doing what they need to do is infinitely more tolerable than putting up with someone who couldn't give two figs tearing up the interior wrestling with the dog house. I like that the new Euro style van engines are all upfront, no dog house access required.

 

So I can go to any enhanced area and have my diesel smogged your saying? That leaves a lot of room. That is much different then I thought I read on the new rules. Thank you for posting up. I appreciate it!

 

Yes, there is definitely a difference between the two turbos, at least for my particular set up. I loved my 38R, it was ran with a true 38R 1.15 A/R exhaust housing and no intercooler. It spooled lightning quick, even with the larger exhaust housing. Ran at least 150 degrees cooler, produced less smoke, and would easily hit 40PSI and slightly higher with the foot buried.

The KC38R has a 1.0 A/R wastegated exhaust housing. It spools noticeably slower, runs a lot hotter as mentioned above, does not clean the smoke as well, and struggles to hit over 35 PSI with the foot buried.

For me the only advantage of the KC38R is that it's rebuildable. Performance goes 100% to the Garrett 38R. The only reason that I replaced the turbo was because it started to develop a little shaft play.

​​​​​​I had been interested in the KC38R for quite a while so I contacted KC Turbos directly. I expressed my interest in the KC38R, and told them how I used the van, full mod list ect. Kudos to KC because they actually recommended me to rebuild my original stock turbo using their rebuild kit, compressor wheel and there larger turbine. Along with an ATS ported housing, and 1.15 exhaust housing which I already had. They said this set up would spool faster, run cooler and have more bottom end than the KC38R. I was still sold on the idea of a ball bearing turbo so at the end of the conversation I expressed how well the Garrett 38R had worked for me and I asked them a simple question. "Do you feel that the KC38R would perform at least as well as the Garrett?" They said the KC38R should out perform it in every way. Within a couple weeks an opportunity to buy the KC38R arose an I got one.

My experience could be totally different than the next guy. KC Turbos told me that the KC38R excels in the higher RPM range. The van is heavy, with 35" tires and 373 gears it does not see high RPMs to often. I may still rebuild that old stock turbo using all the KC components one day. That setup would have probably suited my driving style better. Feel free to PM me with any specific questions about the two turbos.

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Thank you for your post. I like to here first hand experience telling it the way it is. I often wondered if any buddy has ever asked Garret what the cost would be for them to rebuild one of there turbo's? You always here about the same as new, but has any buddy done this? Or even a balancing company, they should be able to get parts and do the job. I know they do in aircraft. Anyway, thank you.

 

Hey Chet, i hit Garrett out of Fontana for a rebuild kit..$55.xx..may give them a call for your inquiry