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99 Ranger 3.0 Won't idle

 
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:17 PM
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99 Ranger 3.0 Won't idle

I went to start my Ranger yesterday and as soon as it started it died. I tried it a couple more times but it did the same thing. If I give it gas it runs fine, and after I ran it for about a minute with my foot on the gas it almost idled at like 300-400 RPM's and then died. I haven't had time to dig into it yet and I am totally new to these engines. I'm hoping to look at it on Saturday, what should I be looking for? Is this a common problem on these?

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-15-2019, 08:04 AM
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Scan the ECM for trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.

Seeing as how you seem interested in trouble shooting your vehicle woes, If you don't have a code reader, or scan tool, or don't know anyone with one that'll scan for you, or let you borrow it, consider coming by the inexpensive ELM & running FORScan diagnostic freeware (that's tweaked for Fords), on the viewing device of your choice as discussed here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-scantool.html. This powerful combo can query All of the vehicle computer/controllers for trouble code clues. Then post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot. This combo can also put up live sensor PID feeds on our viewing device, so we can see live data in several formats of our choice, so makes for a Very powerful addition to our electronic tool box.

If you want to dive right in for a preliminary trouble shooting check & seeing as how the IAC is responsible for maintaining idle speed, look to it, or its wiring for problems.
Also look for vacuum leaks from cracked, dry rotted, broken vacuum lines & included would be a mucked up/stuck open PCV valve, or its dry rotted rubber plumbing & the vapor recovery system, as its used on starts, so if it, or its plumbing has become corrupt, its air leaks too it can overwhelm the IAC ability to keep bypass idle air under control & thus corrupt idle speed quality. Lastly, if your brakes power boost is wimpy, look to its rubber vacuum line connection to the manifold, or maybe the booster diaphragm has developed a vacuum leak, so to isolate it, disconnect & plug its rubber hose to the intake manifold, then if your idle woes clear up, put the brake booster high up on the suspect list.
.
A bunch of beginning thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
 
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:19 PM
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Awesome! That should keep me busy checking for a while.
Actually your comment about electronically diagnosing this brings up another issue that I forgot to mention, that being the OBD II port doesn't work. I have a little gauge pod that I used to keep in my V10, which also reads codes. I plugged it in and nothing happened, same thing with my buddy's bluetooth scanner. So that's another thing I need to look at. It is plugged in on the back of the OBD port, so I'm going to have to dig farther into that...
 
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:21 PM
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Check the Cigar Lighter fuse, it powers the DLC connector.
 
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by pawpaw View Post
Check the Cigar Lighter fuse, it powers the DLC connector.
Very good to know! Will do.
 
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Old 03-19-2019, 09:46 PM
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Ok so I got a chance to look at it tonight, not for real long though. So checking around I removed the IAC, didn't look super dirty, but it wasn't spotless either. The gasket was kinda brittle and I broke part of it in the middle, so I called the parts store, told them what I was working on and long story short he said the coolant temp sensor might be bad, so I went to pick one up but I had gotten there too late and they closed. So I came back, cleaned up the gasket, (I figured it'd be fine for now), and started looking at the CTS. I started it, held the RPM's at about 1500 for a few minutes, coolant temp does register on the dash, let off the gas and it idled down to about 500 on it's own. With that as a baseline, I then went and unplugged the CTS, and started it. It ran horrible, and revved up to 3000 on its own and stayed there. I shut it off, plugged the sensor back in and started it, it ran great, but still revved up to and stayed at 3000. I guess I assumed from working on my other Fords that if a sensor is unplugged it just kinda defaults to a certain value that won't harm the engine. Did I royally mess something up?

Also, the fuse for the lighter was blown, new fuse and OBD is up and running. Oddly enough no codes whatsoever throughout this whole process.
 
 


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