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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

Acquired a 4wd diesel, not sure what to do with it

 
  #16  
Old 03-19-2019, 07:48 AM
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A low battery will cause you grief on starting as well as even 1 bad glow plug. I switched to a snow plow relay after fighting a bum relay once as well. Stock glow plug system other then that served me well. Air in any fuel system is a PITA.
 
  #17  
Old 03-20-2019, 03:39 AM
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Tach showed ~300RPM cranking. It sounded adequate, but I have no direct comparison.
 
  #18  
Old 05-14-2019, 01:21 AM
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All glowplugs were fried, likely because there was a manual switch bypassing the GPC, likely because some of the return lines were barely finger-tight and popped right off. I replaced all return lines, making sure to clamp down hard on three loose fittings (why are those nipples so small?!), repaired the GPC, cleaned up GPC contacts and all battery terminals, replaced the glowplugs with International-packaged Beru... and it fired up real quick! But for a minute or two, shook and smoked regardless of RPM. Smoke smelled of diesel, might've had oil in it too but I'm not sure. Any ideas? Dead cylinder, bad injector, incomplete bleeding...?

Monitored voltage at the GPC and found that after ~8 seconds, the light went out, but the plugs still got power for another ~3 seconds. Is that normal?

Starts, runs and drives. Doesn't stop well; need to diagnose brake booster. Doesn't charge; alternator tested bad so I'm going to upgrade to a 130A "3g". And there's a major draw from a black/yellow wire off the starter relay, but I'm having a hard time finding wiring diagrams.
 
  #19  
Old 05-14-2019, 07:54 AM
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shaking was probably from air in the system. the power to glow plugs after light went out was the "after glow" this helps keep the engine running, and on a cold engine it can afterglow for up to two minutes.
if the pedal is hard after first stop, probably a bad vacuum pump.
if i remember correctly, the black/yellow wire is power feed to glow plug controller, and there should be two of them.
 
  #20  
Old 05-14-2019, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by moroza View Post
All glowplugs were fried, likely because there was a manual switch bypassing the GPC, likely because some of the return lines were barely finger-tight and popped right off. I replaced all return lines, making sure to clamp down hard on three loose fittings (why are those nipples so small?!), repaired the GPC, cleaned up GPC contacts and all battery terminals, replaced the glowplugs with International-packaged Beru... and it fired up real quick! But for a minute or two, shook and smoked regardless of RPM. Smoke smelled of diesel, might've had oil in it too but I'm not sure. Any ideas? Dead cylinder, bad injector, incomplete bleeding...?

Monitored voltage at the GPC and found that after ~8 seconds, the light went out, but the plugs still got power for another ~3 seconds. Is that normal?

Starts, runs and drives. Doesn't stop well; need to diagnose brake booster. Doesn't charge; alternator tested bad so I'm going to upgrade to a 130A "3g". And there's a major draw from a black/yellow wire off the starter relay, but I'm having a hard time finding wiring diagrams.
I am not sure of the glow plug set up on that exact year but they changed and put them under the valve cover around that time. If that is the case oil gets into the cylinder when you replace glow plugs. It will snot buck and make a cloud of smoke a skeeter fogging rig would be jealous of. Some have even had the engine lock hydraulic up. Glow plugs will come on and off some until it get swarmed some. More in cold weather then when warm. Dead cylinder will not allow it to even out . Not stopping well my first guess would be vacuum pump with a real good possibility of vacuum leaks as in all the lines that are used to operate the heater and A/C systems. Some if have the automatic lock outs ran a vacuum line as well
 
  #21  
Old 05-14-2019, 10:00 AM
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under valve cover glow plugs is powerstroke, a completely different engine.
 
  #22  
Old 05-15-2019, 12:31 PM
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No, that wire does something else. I disconnected it and the glowplugs still work, though the lights don't.

Brake assist is intermittent with the pump hooked up. Remove the belt and the brakes are very hard but hold pressure. So the hydraulics seem ok, meaning it's either a vacuum leak, bad booster, or bad pump. Will test vacuum and go from there. How many inHg should the pump draw?
 
  #23  
Old 05-15-2019, 05:46 PM
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anything over 19 inches is considered good.
 
  #24  
Old 05-17-2019, 01:27 AM
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Just replaced the oil cooler seals. What a disgusting job! Apart from that, I'm finding this rig relatively straightforward to work on, just tedious because of the size: 8 gallon cooling system, too much weight for my lightweight floorjack so I have to wrestle the heavy one, have to climb onto the engine to work on stuff... I like that the wheelwells are removable; never had a truck before that could do that, and it made access a lot easier.

Oil cooler resealed and reinstalled, I fired up again to check for leaks and this time there was far less smoke, but the idle jumped up and down quite a bit for ~30 seconds. Still clearing out the fuel system cobwebs, I suppose (it's run for <5 minutes since lines were replaced). Idle was normal/low, some 500rpm. When is the high idle solenoid supposed to work?

I spun the vacuum pump by hand and it sounded like bolts in a tin can. Brief reading suggests these go out all the time and are sometimes repairable by cleaning and changing the oil. Is there an actual repair kit? Have to remove it anyway to reach the thermostat, so I'll take it apart and see what's what.
 
  #25  
Old 05-17-2019, 03:20 AM
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high idle solenoid works below 100 degrees block temp. it is controlled by the temp switch along side the t-stat housing under the alternator.
 

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