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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Kick down lever and Dashpot

 
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Old 03-13-2019, 10:54 PM
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Kick down lever and Dashpot

So I have been slowly rebuilding from my involuntary carburetor bbq and have gotten my new carburetor today. While I was taking off the old carburetor I realized that I had no replacement for the dashpot and solenoid. Which brings me to my first question: Is it necessary? Or I can I just leave it off and do not necessarily need it to drive?

The second thing I stumbled across is that weird metal bar, which I have now identified as the kick down linkage. It seems that it just hooks up to the its place on the carburetor, and I was able to save the little ring that holds it in place, but the old return spring is absolute toast. Upon closer inspection it also seems that the return spring hooks into the base of the dashpot. So I was thinking if I could just grab a standard spring from ace and hook it up to the base of the carburetor. Would that work? If so what Strength spring was used as the return spring?

This seems to be one of the last puzzle pieces to reversing my bbq damage and it would be great to finally hear that engine rumble again.

Thank You
 
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Old 03-14-2019, 05:59 AM
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On the kickdown linkage, all you need to do is make sure the spring is strong enough to pull the rod back to home. If the rod gets pushed into kickdown mode and does not return, it makes the trans do funny things and not shift correctly.

You can run without the dashpot. It was used for emissions and also to avoid stalling issues with a automatic trans when you goose the throttle in drive.

I don't remember what year truck you have and what engine. Some of the solenoids were very simple and there just to raise the rpm when the A/C is running. Other models were more complicated and the computer controlled it to control the idle. I am guessing you do not have this type since you had a dashpot.
 
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Old 03-14-2019, 06:14 AM
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Thank You!
I have a 351m in a 1981 F-250. It seems that it's just for the AC idle, as the solenoid wire comes from the same wire bundle that goes to the AC compressor. The dashpot may have not worked at all before the fire, cause I could just push the dashpot in without any resistance.
 
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BlueWhiteFord View Post
Thank You!
I have a 351m in a 1981 F-250. It seems that it's just for the AC idle, as the solenoid wire comes from the same wire bundle that goes to the AC compressor. The dashpot may have not worked at all before the fire, cause I could just push the dashpot in without any resistance.
That is a kicker solenoid it kicks the idle up when the AC is on.
Dashpots just slow the closing of the throttle to prevent stalling this is needed if you blip the throttle in gear at idle as it will usually result in a stall. A dashpot is "a damper which resists motion via viscous friction"
 
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:09 AM
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Since my AC does not work, I could technically just mount the burned up solenoid and put a new dashpot on it. That should help prevent it from stalling when idling. Does anyone where I can get a new dashpot/ something that is more available and works?
 
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:39 AM
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There are a bunch of dashpots for sale on ebay. You have to try hard to make it stall. The only scenario I can think of when driving normally is if you are sitting at a stoplight, the light turns green and everyone starts to leave including you, and then suddenly the person if front of you hits their brakes. So you would hit the gas pedal to go and then suddenly let up. It would probably stall then. And you may be able to tune this out some by raising the idle speed a little bit. I would try it without, if it's a problem then I would pursue getting another.
 

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