2006 F250 6.0L troubles again - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Go Back  Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Diesel > 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
Reload this Page >

2006 F250 6.0L troubles again

Notices
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

2006 F250 6.0L troubles again

 
  #1  
Old 03-13-2019, 12:51 PM
nevadasmith68's Avatar
nevadasmith68
nevadasmith68 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Nevada City
Posts: 18
nevadasmith68 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thumbs up 2006 F250 6.0L troubles again

Hi, I was just looking back at all my posts starting way back in 2015 even though I have had issues with this truck from the start of purchasing it back in 2006. I will first say what I have changed on it and then list my issue, I have changed the IPR, HPOP, changed the FICM a few times now, last time was about 2years ago,EGR COOLER changed 2 times, Changed the EGR and just yesterday pulled it, cleaned it and replaced the harness to it. Changed the ICP 3 times and the pigtail once.Pulled and cleaned the Turbo and vanes.Fuel Pressure Regulator Blue spring upgrade. I know that there are a lot of other things, but I am just not remembering them at this moment. When I listed what I have done to the truck, that is what I have done to it over a 13 year life span of the truck, not what I have done to it in the last few days. I have done nothing to it in a year.

The newest issue is the CEL has been on for a few days with the P0404 code which I have seen in the past, I had pulled the EGR and cleaned it before and also replaced it as well, I think I have changed it about 3 times, not sure. This time I pulled it, cleaned it as there was nothing on it, but some fine exhaust dust, but seemed to be working fine and changed the wiring harness plug to the EGR. It has been idling rough intermittently, but I thought that was just the ICP so I unplugged it and put back in and it seemed ok. Yesterday with the CEL still on after cleaning the EGR the wrench icon came on and was running very bad and almost did not make it home. I am now getting the P2285 and still the P0404 code, I went and bought an ICP sensor Echlin Diesel IPS200 and put it on last night, it was all that was in stock in my rural area of the sierra mountains, I had no choice. This morning it ran fine until about 4 miles the Wrench icon came back and it was running bad, barely made it back again. I pulled the pigtail off and have looked for any shorting out, but just so frustrated with this truck. I have always had all the known issues with this 2006 and its not reliable at all, I work as a general contractor and really need it still, but maybe I need to just move on. It has 200k on it which I always thought was not much for a diesel, that is why I bought it, I have never pulled much of anything heavy with it and kept it in good shape, regular oil changes. its not been beat. Any help would be great, I have a code reader, but it does not say much past what the code is, its not very sophisticated. Thanks, Scott
 
  #2  
Old 03-13-2019, 01:00 PM
bismic's Avatar
bismic
bismic is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 18,325
bismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputation
You really should buy OEM sensors and actuators. I just can't see OEM parts failing that many times and I highly suspect that replacing the HPOP wasn't needed.

Getting the FICM repaired at FICMrepair.com would most likely eliminate the multiple FICM issues.

I assume the current EGR valve is an aftermarket part?
 
  #3  
Old 03-13-2019, 01:40 PM
nevadasmith68's Avatar
nevadasmith68
nevadasmith68 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Nevada City
Posts: 18
nevadasmith68 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I can see your going to start my thread going in that direction of OEM parts, do you have any suggestions to the codes that I listed other than where to get the FICM fixed, which is where i got it done and using OEM parts. The EGR was clean when I pulled it and the valve was operating, its a year old and OEM. When I listed what I have done to the truck, that is what I have done to it over a 13 year life span of the truck. I have done nothing to it in the last year other than replace the EGR and or cleaned it.
 
  #4  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:02 PM
copsey's Avatar
copsey
copsey is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Wilmington, OH
Posts: 492
copsey has a great reputation on FTE.copsey has a great reputation on FTE.copsey has a great reputation on FTE.copsey has a great reputation on FTE.
P2285 - low ICP, could be any number of things from bad sensor and/or wiring to an oil leak in the high pressure oil side. Have never seen anyone have luck with aftermarket ICP sensors. Have you replaced standpipes and dummy plugs? STC connector? Any of those can cause the 2285.
P404 – EGR Control Circuit Range/Performance, probably a stuck EGR valve.
 
  #5  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:11 PM
nevadasmith68's Avatar
nevadasmith68
nevadasmith68 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Nevada City
Posts: 18
nevadasmith68 is starting off with a positive reputation.
P404 – EGR Control Circuit Range/Performance, probably a stuck EGR valve.

I pulled it and cleaned it, it had minimal if no dust on it at all and the valve operated just fine.
 
  #6  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:27 PM
copsey's Avatar
copsey
copsey is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Wilmington, OH
Posts: 492
copsey has a great reputation on FTE.copsey has a great reputation on FTE.copsey has a great reputation on FTE.copsey has a great reputation on FTE.
Originally Posted by nevadasmith68 View Post
P404 EGR Control Circuit Range/Performance, probably a stuck EGR valve.

I pulled it and cleaned it, it had minimal if no dust on it at all and the valve operated just fine.
Could be an internal failure...have you tried a different EGR valve?
 
  #7  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:31 PM
packagerjr
packagerjr is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 508
packagerjr is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.packagerjr is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Id expect 0401 to be from a dirty valve. Second the internal valve issues.
 
  #8  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:37 PM
nevadasmith68's Avatar
nevadasmith68
nevadasmith68 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Nevada City
Posts: 18
nevadasmith68 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I have not tried that yet, this would be the fourth EGR I had put on this truck in the past 13years and this is a new OEM from last year. When I pulled it off I probably did not really even need to clean it, but I did see how it was seating and it was moving smoothly, but that is not to say that it is not working correctly. I really have no options at this time other than to wait for my wife to come back home and send her to the auto parts store to get another one. I am at a loss but thankful to all of your replies and help. Thanks.
 
  #9  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:39 PM
copsey's Avatar
copsey
copsey is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Wilmington, OH
Posts: 492
copsey has a great reputation on FTE.copsey has a great reputation on FTE.copsey has a great reputation on FTE.copsey has a great reputation on FTE.
Some other things that can cause the P0404

Restricted air flow (intake or exhaust)
Charge air cooler (CAC) system leaks (hoses/cooler)
EGR valve stuck or sticking
EGR valve O-rings
Restricted EGR cooler
EGR valve position sensor bias
Water or Dust contamination on MAF sensor element

Ford part should have a 2 year warranty on it so you should be able to exchange it if you can confirm it is the culprit.
 
  #10  
Old 03-13-2019, 02:52 PM
nevadasmith68's Avatar
nevadasmith68
nevadasmith68 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Nevada City
Posts: 18
nevadasmith68 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thanks so much for taking the time to listing all of the things that may be wrong, I am actually going out to the truck and coming back each time trying to check each item. I do know that my A/C is not working and just forgot about that until you listed it just now, I had that P0404 code in the summer, I charged the A/C it and it went away. Its winter now and I dont use the ac, but now that you mention it I know its not working and thinking that might be the P0404 code. I still have the other issue of the wrench icon coming on, that was the first time in the history of owning my truck that I ever saw that one. I am not sure now how to go about the P2285 code, I can change the IPC again, but I would just be throwing parts at it and not sure how to test the new one I just got. I will charge the A/C to see if that gets rid of the P0404 code and thanks for that, that is why I come here for all of your help. Thanks so much
 
  #11  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:14 PM
bismic's Avatar
bismic
bismic is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 18,325
bismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputationbismic has a superb reputation
Originally Posted by nevadasmith68 View Post
I can see your going to start my thread going in that direction of OEM parts, do you have any suggestions to the codes that I listed other than where to get the FICM fixed, which is where i got it done and using OEM parts. The EGR was clean when I pulled it and the valve was operating, its a year old and OEM. When I listed what I have done to the truck, that is what I have done to it over a 13 year life span of the truck. I have done nothing to it in the last year other than replace the EGR and or cleaned it.
I went that way because of how much you have spent and because you are clearly frustrated (and rightfully so) at the high cost.

The advice above is good on the codes. The P0404 is quite often a bad EGR valve, but it could be related to air flow (MAF or IAT1). Sometimes cleaning the EGR valve can actually make things worse (ie if brake cleaner is used, or if cleaning fluid gets into the actuator).

As much as I push OEM parts, the two that are NOT recommended are the FICM and the EGR cooler. FICMrepair.com is essentially a permanent fix. If you are keeping the EGR system, the BulletProofDiesel EGR cooler is HIGHLY recommended. It is very possible that the EGR cooler failures (if they are the OEM style coolers) is related to a plugged oil cooler. You need to look at the coolant and oil temperatures when the engine is fully warmed up (ie when coolant is at least 190 *F and the oil temp has stabilized).

Many people have had issues w/ aftermarket ICP sensors. Some right out of the box. The 04.5 and up ICP (OEM) sensors are very reliable. The way to tell if it is good or bad is to look at the ICP voltage along with the pressure reading.

I would venture a guess (but it is ONLY a guess) that with a new HPOP, the STC fitting was changed out. That leaves dummy plugs and standpipes as the main sources for an actual issue w/ low ICP pressure. You could also have an injector (or multiple ones) o-ring leak. That said, the P2285 is an electrical code and ore likely to be a wiring issue. The way to start tracking this down is to post ICP volts, ICP pressure, ICP desired, and IPR % duty cycle when cranking. If these numbers indicate a leak, then an air pressure test for leaks is warranted.

If the injectors are original, then they could be getting old and worn. This can cause combustion issues that can lead to clogging the EGR system. If system voltages are low (due to batteries or alternator), then the FICM can fail prematurely and it can impact injector operation.

Just trying to help with the spending trend. Not trying to harp on "OEM only", but there are times when the aftermarket parts can make things worse ... out of the box.
 
  #12  
Old 03-13-2019, 08:47 PM
diesel_dan's Avatar
diesel_dan
diesel_dan is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Foothills, CA
Posts: 5,400
diesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud of
Originally Posted by bismic View Post
I went that way because of how much you have spent and because you are clearly frustrated (and rightfully so) at the high cost.

The advice above is good on the codes. The P0404 is quite often a bad EGR valve, but it could be related to air flow (MAF or IAT1). Sometimes cleaning the EGR valve can actually make things worse (ie if brake cleaner is used, or if cleaning fluid gets into the actuator).

As much as I push OEM parts, the two that are NOT recommended are the FICM and the EGR cooler. FICMrepair.com is essentially a permanent fix. If you are keeping the EGR system, the BulletProofDiesel EGR cooler is HIGHLY recommended. It is very possible that the EGR cooler failures (if they are the OEM style coolers) is related to a plugged oil cooler. You need to look at the coolant and oil temperatures when the engine is fully warmed up (ie when coolant is at least 190 *F and the oil temp has stabilized).

Many people have had issues w/ aftermarket ICP sensors. Some right out of the box. The 04.5 and up ICP (OEM) sensors are very reliable. The way to tell if it is good or bad is to look at the ICP voltage along with the pressure reading.

I would venture a guess (but it is ONLY a guess) that with a new HPOP, the STC fitting was changed out. That leaves dummy plugs and standpipes as sources for the P2285. You could also have an injector (or multiple ones) o-ring leak. The way to start tracking this down is to post ICP volts, ICP pressure, ICP desired, and IPR % duty cycle when cranking. If these numbers are off, then an air pressure test for leaks is warranted.

If the injectors are original, then they could be getting old and worn. This can cause combustion issues that can lead to clogging the EGR system. If system voltages are loww (due to batteries or alternator), then the FICM can fail prematurely and it can impact injector operation.

Just trying to help with the spending trend. Not trying to harp on "OEM only", but there are times when the aftermarket parts can make things worse ... out of the box.
Just to emphasize what Mark wrote: Multiple FICMs, even ones from Ed, indicate you haven't got the charging and battery problems fixed. Do you know what alternator came on your truck? (stock was a 110A unit) and have you had to replace it and with what? How fresh do you keep your batteries and do you keep them charged? Problem with several FICM changes is I'd question how your injectors are doing, health-wise, on their electrical side. One of the 6.0's cascading problems is: low battery/alternator power --> FICM is harmed ---> Injecotrs are harmed...

And has been mentioned: wrench light can be set because your oil temp is well over your coolant temp. Any chance you've done good maintenance on your cooling system and maybe switched to a Cat EC-1 rated coolant?

I wish it wasn't so, but a 6.0 can go oh-so-wrong without monitoring the things that are not on the dash... Sorry you are frustrated and these good folk are here to help...

Scott
 
  #13  
Old 03-13-2019, 09:13 PM
Visurveyor's Avatar
Visurveyor
Visurveyor is offline
Freshman User
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Jacksonville Florida
Posts: 28
Visurveyor is starting off with a positive reputation.
Nevada Smith 68 this is an excellent post with a lot of good questions, me myself I learned a lot from bimic and diesel_Dan. This post alone tought me things i wouldn't have thought of myself . My advice is when these guys are letting you know what's going on. Dont doubt there advise because they sugest something they know is provin. Yes might be a little more money, but we all know these motors are high maintenance .I have have been following this forum for awhile first through my dad and now myself . The guys here, that do put there advice outhere are very knowledgeable.

 
  #14  
Old 03-14-2019, 01:25 PM
nevadasmith68's Avatar
nevadasmith68
nevadasmith68 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Nevada City
Posts: 18
nevadasmith68 is starting off with a positive reputation.

You are all right and I am completely thankful to everyone for all the advice I get and apologize for coming across as insincere. I am frustrated with this truck and have been for so very long from the Death wobble on the front end to the EGR cooler having me break down in the middle of the Sierra Mountains as it snowed without cell reception. I have done all of the work myself, except that I took the truck into Sacramento at one time 2 years ago because I wanted the HPOP changed, When I had replaced the EGR cooler and had pulled off all the parts down to that area, I did not change the HPOP, I was not aware that these trucks had a problem with them and did not change it, I should have. So I brought it to a shop that had good reviews because I thought maybe I should actually have someone work on it that knows what they are doing. They changed the HPOP and when they were doing the work suggested the EGR I had put in which was not OEM should be changed to a sinister EGR so I did that and about $6k later they were done. I was hoping to have a truck finally I could rely on and thinking since I did not do the work, that it would be good.
I started having issues with the EGR about 3 months after they did the work and have had issues ever since. I think the reason for the FICM change so often is because when I would get so frustrated I would change it along with other parts and possibly they never needed to be changed. I work as a General Contractor and where I work can be isolated, I need the truck so I threw parts at it sometimes not just because I need it for work, but also to pick up my son and was always worried we would break down somewhere in the middle of the mountains. I have worked on cars all my life, but in no way want to say I am knowledgeable completely about this truck. I can see a code and that sometimes means 6-7 different problems to which I try to eliminate by either buying the part or pulling it and cleaning it. Staring at the electrical I know wont fix it, but I at times need to just change the part because I wont know how to test it even though it may not be the issue. I am not a mechanic, but I also dont want to pay someone for something that I can change, but its not that easy where I live as there are not a lot of diesel mechanics and I dont know who to trust. I think its how some people feel when they look for a contractor, they must feel the same way at times. Just as a note, I also remember that I changed out the oil cooler as well when I had replaced the EGR cooler the first time I did it.
I do thank all of you and will be buying a new EGR today and was wondering about the EGR position sensor and connector, I dont know much about that and not sure how to test it. The picture I uploaded is huge but that is what I am looking at, Genuine Ford 4C3Z-9J460-A EGR valve Position Sensor, I only would change it because I never have and now getting Code P0404 and P0405. Thanks to all of you Bismic, Copsey, Packagerjr, Diesel Dan and Visurveyor, believe me that I do respect all of your knowledge and opinions, I am very thankful for all of your time in writing to help me and wish I can return the favor.
 
  #15  
Old 03-14-2019, 01:46 PM
diesel_dan's Avatar
diesel_dan
diesel_dan is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Foothills, CA
Posts: 5,400
diesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud ofdiesel_dan has much to be proud of
By any chance was it Ken Imler you took it to in Sacramento? If not, it should have been - he knows the 6.0 and has a good reputation, and he would have done or recommended the STC fitting off the HPOP be changed and maybe the stand pipes and dummy plugs. Curious as to who #2 was, because maybe they had good reviews, and maybe they also were Sinister Diesel, which I think is in Roseville and would be the bottom of my list of folks to take my 6.0 to. The place I'd recommend is either Imler, or Fords Only in Shingle Springs area - owner Russ was a Senior Ford Tech at Placerville Ford, until it shut down. He then opened his own shop - he knows 6.0s...

Feel your pain and the truck can be dependable. If I could impress upon you one thing, it is to get a better monitoring set-up: if you have a Droid phone you can buy an inexpensive Bluetooth adapter that plugs into your OBDII port and download the paid for version of the app Torque Pro. After that you will stop throwing parts at your truck and the guys here can give you very specific things to test and you give them valuable information back (as well as Now Really Know what is going on with your truck).

Best of luck,
Scott
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us About Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.