First of all, this is going better than I ever dreamed. The vast amount of knowledge here on the various methods is incredible.

We are starting to get some head to head to head comparisons on the threads though. The MII thread is just that, a chance for the MII guys to put out the facts without interference. We've been a tough crowd the past couple years.

Finally, a response to a post from George (Earl) on the Straight Axle thread.

""""" ..... I disrespectfully submit that whatever summary is produced refer to the various characteristics in a reasonably non-biased way. One good first step is to title them for what they are, characteristics, not what a given person (or even the majority) thinks of their value..................."""

George

I promise we'll be very objective. We don't have to call them Pros and Cons, but at the same time we don't have to sugar coat everything beyond any value either. Get ready, here comes the 'fenders rant

I'm a big boy, I won't cry if we point out a Volare has 27 yards of weld in it. It's a fact, and it isn't an advantage. It takes a long time to make a Volare anything that resembles pretty. My Volare is also one of the smoother riding options out there. We'll mention that too and I'll feel all warm and fuzzy inside again OK.

It's a fact that stock 53 F100 brakes and a stroker big block isn't the hot great combo to build. And stock SA parallel park like crap with stock tires and no PS, even when rebuilt. We can point out the solution but concealing it is a disservice to the reader. We can do it in a non-offensive manner.

It's a fact that nobody is driving there Aerostar around their forum just yet. It relevant and needs to be stated. It looks promising but the jury isn't in yet.

Lopping your frame off flush with the firewall and adding an LTD back there should come with heavy caution. Guys that weld like me shouldn't attempt it alone. I'd want to be warned.

It's a near fact that an improperly done MII is a potential safety hazard. I think Niolon is in touch with that and would want no part of misleading a new rodder. Why not point it out nicely and tell them how to fix it.

We'll say everything nice as possible, and proof read the heck out of it. Deal?

No need to defend yourself George. You are just trying to protect others feelings again. We'll put that one under Georges "Pro" column. We're saving your cons for another time.

 

<b>Lopping your frame off flush with the firewall and adding an LTD back there should come with heavy caution. Guys that weld like me shouldn't attempt it alone. I'd want to be warned.</b>

Unlike the GM which is a true subframe, the early Galaxie/LTD is a full frame vehicle and the mod does not require cutting back to the firewall. I dont know about the 80's style.
I really want to see more pictures of these conversions, I deal a lot better with visuals!

And how about adding a sticky to cover both the Jag and Corvette?

 

Carl

Anyone that wants to start a new IFS thread is certainly welcome to. I don't want to clutter it up unless there is likely to be some input on the subject.

I was not aware the fullsize Ford IFS was not a frame chop. The one's I have seen looked like it to me. I guess learned something today.

 

The early Galaxie/LTD is a full frame car so it does need to be cut, however you dont have to go to the firewall which you do with GM.
I would warrant a guess that the LTD minimizes the stresses inherent with the way the GM needs to be spliced at/under the firewall.
And as I said earlier I dont know what is required of the 80's version so I hope that gets detailed.


As far as starting a topic; you are doing fine so I'd appreciate if you would add the Jag/Corvette. After all it is an option and should be included.

 

Here's where you discuss Jaguar and Vette IFS options for F1/F100. Or any other IFS I might have forgotten. Any and all are welcome. If a particular system discussion gets going, we'll pull it over into it's own thread.

Pros

1. Donor is a performance car of substantial weight.

 

TO: George, fatfenders, and ALL ENGINE AND FRONT END SWITCHERS:

I just ran across an EXCELLENT post in the '48 to'60 area from '4t18ford' entitled "Engine Weights"

I think everyone who is even CONTEMPLATING an engine conversion and/or front end conversion should print this list and NAIL it up on their garage wall before going any further.

The list includes just about any concievable engine, and quite a few transmissions, that could possibly end up under the hood of an Effie.

The choice of a front end is very much dependent on the weight of the engine/transmission you are using.

Annother thing to consider is the tremendous weight transfer that occurs during hard braking, especially if more powerful front brakes have been added. The rear wheels of these old Effies almost come up off the ground under hard braking as it is. This places nearly 100% of the ENTIRE WEIGHT of the whole vehicle on the front suspension under these conditions.

Annother thing to consider is adding new super-powerful front brakes to a suspension that was designed for smaller brakes. The vastly increased rotational force (reverse torque) is applied to the spindle, A-arms, and mounting points when braking. The additional force of braking has to go somewhere! Will the suspension and mounting points withstand this increased force?

Check out the "engine weights" post.

Good luck, and be safe.

BobJonesSpecial

 

Good Grief 'fenders you idiot, How'd this get over here. That's what happens when you try posting real quick when you're supposed to be working. I'll take care of this right away Carl.

 

I think the threads started on this topic is a wonderful source of information and the compilation ought to be great. Some other things that would be helpful to know about the different IFS options would be:

1. What skills are required. Since this would help you determine what your cost will be if, for example, you can't weld or something else you can't do is required for the installation.

2. Is one system easier than another if you don't have the whole truck torn down to restore? Ie for those that have completed a restore and then decide they want to change to disc brakes and power steering and look at the cost of doing so vs chaning to a complete IFS. What if anything might you have to tear down and redo.

 

<i>Good Grief 'fenders you idiot, </i>

Are you looking for agreement Dewayne?

You still only got it half right; now go add a sticky and bring it back to the top.
Must be all those military straight axles rattling the brain around.

 

Carl

You need to listen up when I speak. Kenny is the sticky man here. They don't let me touch any of the important buttons on FTE. If you would post to the thread Carl, it wouldn't fade off the screen now would it?

BTW, we are probably going to convert all my straight axles to Volare IFS soon as I can find a package deal on a hundred donor clips.

 

MIN150,

Excellent points. I suspect this compilation is going to start out as a great thread with a sticky, and evolve into a full blown tech article of substantial length. Get typin' Fergy.

 

I think it will be a great article.

Another question that would be useful to know for each of the options is how long the actual install will take. Maybe broken down into some categoreis as all may not be needed such as:

Actual Install time
Rebuild time of donor parts
etc.

 

If the large number of stickies start to clutter up the forum it might be a good idea to make one thread linking to all the IFS threads. Just a thought.

 

a point that has been stated several times but can't be overstressed is that you have to be precise in installing any of these IFS. This includes fore/aft location, lateral location and angles of the a-arm mounts. as well, it is very worthwhile to get the whatever installed so that the a-arms are at about the same level across vehicle as they were in the original. This maintains all the geometry that was originally designed into the suspension. Raising it or more likely lowering it from this position will likely have a negative effect on the suspension geometry and the best way to go lower is to get dropped spindles

 

Folks should realize that the article will be (in a single article) simply an overview of the alternatives presently stickied. It will contain the important points from each thread but will not be a word for word duplicate of them. The intent is to give people enough information to enable them to evaluate the alternatives and assist them in narrowing down the alternatives best suited to them - based upon the many things that bear upon their decision - i.e. cost, quality of ride, handling, adustability, appearance, ease/difficulty of installation, etc.

The numerous individual threads (presently stickied) will be unstickied once the overview is posted thereby allowing them to sink down. They will however, always be there, so that folks can go to them for more info and post additional questions if they like.

(We'll try to not make it too dry)

Regards,