Hi All,

I have a 2007 v10 2v with 120k miles. It's a Glaval shuttle conversion that I'm trying to turn into a camper. But first...I need to get it smoged in CA. I first had some trouble codes for the 1 and 6 cyclinders misfiring but those have been resolved with new sparks plugs and replacing some bad fuel injectors. The shop that did my fuel injectors also ran it on a Dyno for me to try and get the drive cycle done. I hope they did it per the Ford spec, but the cycle would not complete. They recommended replacing all 3 o2 sensors and quoted $700, so I did the work myself. I finished that today and drove the vehicle about 50 miles, but did not use the drive cycle testing procedure. I monitored during driving and saw bank 1 and 2 upstream sensors were about 0.2v - 0.8v and the downstream sensor, after the cat, was a minimum of 0.3v and max of 0.7v

I'm not sure what I should be looking for on voltage for the downstream sensor. My plan is to do the drive cycle per the specs tomorrow. Are these published by Ford? Any other opinions on what I could check for? Maybe my catalytic converter needs replacement? Or I've ready some notes about a fuse related to the computer.

Thanks for any input here!

 

Is the Check Engine light on? And what's the GVWR of this vehicle?

Check under the "hood" (if there is one) and try to find the sticker that says what emissions standard it adheres to - OBD-I or OBD-II

 

I just went through the same bull, if your truck is only OBD 1 compliant (as shown under the hood on a sticker) they will never be ready to test because the truck is not California complaint, only "federal". In Pennsylvania, I had to get a Dyno test done, I do not know what California does. If you want me to I will go take a picture of the sticker under the hood

 

No check engine light, no active codes. GVWR is 11500 LB but I think CA has some different rules so it doesn't meet any threshold.

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/de...smogfaq#BM2535

It's OBD2 compliant per the sticker under the hood.

 

If there was a physical fault with the heater circuit, the PCM would throw a code for that. Sounds like it's just not enough time to complete the heater test.

Is it only one of the test's that's not completing (heater) or two (heater and O2 sensor itself)?

 

It's two test, both the o2 sensor and the o2 sensor heater.

I also see catalyst as "available" but not complete so I guess it's 3 not ready.

 

Just drive it normally for a few days, if you can. That should allow the rest of the monitors to run to completion and either pass or fail. Your O2 sensor readings appear to be indicating normally operating sensors. If you want to see if the cat is actually doing it's job, you'd need to set up Torque Pro to graph the three O2 sensors while you drive.

 

Have you looked up the drive cycle for your truck? Sometimes it can take multiple tanks of fuel to actually get everything ready to test

 

I did look up the drive cycle information, The drive cycle I used today is published by prodemand.com looks like Snap-On owns that.

I'm still getting incomplete for these monitors.

I logged some drive data from the OBDII today. I've uploaded it into Google Docs if anyone is interested in taking a look:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing

I highlighted the o2 sensor readings. I'm concerned about "<!--td {border: 1px solid #ccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->Short term fuel trim (Bank 1 Sensor 2) (%)" column AP.

When this vehicle was previously in for repair they had cleaned and replaced some of the fuel injectors, but only did one side. I'm wondering if this is a faulty reading, not related, or perhaps I need to have my fuel injectors on the other bank inspected.

Thanks for any help.

-Andrew

 

Looking at the data, I'm concerned about the voltages in the post cat o2 sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

I'm reading that the voltage should be between .5 and .7v

https://www.autoserviceprofessional....agnosis?Page=2

I'm more suspect of my catalytic converter at this point. Does anyone have an opinion on this or a recommendation on how to test the Cat further? Looking at around $500 in parts to replace.

 

The downstream sensor can swing just as much as the upstream (.1 to .9 V, generally) The key is that it must switch at a (required) lower rate if the converter is functioning.

Set up a graph of the two upstream sensors and the single downstream sensor in Torque. If the cat is not functional, the downstream sensor's waveform will look almost like the upstreams. If the cat is working, the downstream will switch far fewer times and spend a lot more time in a relatively steady state or without quite the rail-to-rail changes in amplitude, depending on throttle behavior.

 

Dude, you are awesome and I appreciate reading your posts!