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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Carb shooting mist..no start

 
  #16  
Old 03-09-2019, 09:22 PM
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Both these pics are about firing order....I followed the grey one. Notice how number 1 is roughly 1oclock position. You can see the clip tabs just to the left of number 1. That's exactly how mine is and the rotor is pointing at number 1. However the colorful pic the tabs and plug order is different
 
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Old 03-09-2019, 09:23 PM
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  #18  
Old 03-09-2019, 09:25 PM
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You've dumped some money and time already. Why start with a timing chain? Was engine apart when you bought it? If PO told you it needed a chain, how do you know he didn't jump the old chain and wipe out the valves?
 
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Old 03-09-2019, 09:26 PM
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I did the chain just peace of mine because the water pump was rusty. So I figured why not do timing chain
 
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Old 03-09-2019, 09:29 PM
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I bought it...said ran when parked...however I noticed the carb was fairly rebuilt...but linkage was apart...somewhat. everything else was complete. I've just put new parts at it for peace of mine and starting easier. However the oil pan had water because rain got into carb. So I replaced oil pump and fill/drain oil few times. Also new valve cover gaskets..maybe the intake valves are frozen? But wouldnt that make low compression
 
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Old 03-09-2019, 09:37 PM
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If valves were frozen I'd say you've bent some pushrods. But you said mist came out a cylinder when cranking. Gas or water? Water in the oil and carb was messed with when you bought it? Was the air cleaner on it? Makes me wonder how the water got in there. did oil look like a milkshake?
 
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Old 03-09-2019, 09:41 PM
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Air cleaner was off/missing...hood was off as well just slightly resting half way on top. But the rust all on fenders tells the hood was off for a long time. Yes the oil was milkshakes. The radiator and block bone dry. Sat for 13yrs. That's why I redid the oil system since it was milkshaked
 
  #23  
Old 03-09-2019, 09:42 PM
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Original seller told me his plan was to pick off the body and put on a Chevy frame since he had a efi engine and disc brakes and 4x4.
 
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Old 03-09-2019, 09:55 PM
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Sitting that long could mix the oil and water. Usually a milkshake is the sign of a bad head gasket. For as many years as this thing sat,,,, well I think your going to be pulling that engine apart. If that water isn't from a blown head gasket, it leaked down through the cylinders from the intake. Lot's of rust in the cylinders and possible broken rings fro turning the engine over.
 
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Old 03-09-2019, 10:10 PM
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Not all the oil was milkshaked. Just portion. Definitely from rain. Not head gasket. I put some oil in cylinder before cranking by hand over. I know theres still a risk but she would at least start. And It was definitely fuel that was misting out the carb. Shot it up a good foot or so into the air
 
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Old 03-09-2019, 10:22 PM
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After trying over and over I pulled dip stick and smelled a but like gas. Mind you I installed a new fuel pump already. So I doubt its leaking at diaphragm but possible. Or just flooded from cranking. Which would explain the mist I got out of cylinder 1 as well when I was checking spark
 
  #27  
Old 03-10-2019, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 3000gtman View Post
After trying over and over I pulled dip stick and smelled a but like gas. Mind you I installed a new fuel pump already. So I doubt its leaking at diaphragm but possible. Or just flooded from cranking. Which would explain the mist I got out of cylinder 1 as well when I was checking spark
I agree, with the "Flooded" idea. It sounds like to me that the engine is trying to backfire, but there is no ignition source to cause the actual boom and flame. Then please note, you can rotate that dist. cap to make ANY position on that distributor cap # 1! So the position of the clips may not be exactly the same as the diagram.Here is a pic of mine:

double click on the pic and you can see the clips at 9&3 o'clock position.
The important thing is that the crank is at TDC-Compression stroke for number 1 cylinder- Then double check that the correct spark plug wire is in the correct sequence on the top of the dist. cap!! I installed numbers from an electricians wire marker set on my cap, because I had the cap off of the dist when I installed new wires. Many people also mark the wires too. If you do that, I suggest you mark them at 2 points along the length-makes it easier to follow the wire. Before you crank the engine over, with the engine still at TDC, pop the clips loose from the dist cap,(remove air cleaner & filter for better view) then see if the #1 wire post on the cap is where the rotor is pointed. IF not then you have to loosen the dist. lockdown bolt and rotate the dist. If it will not line up with a very minor turn, then you have to remove the dist and reposition it one gear tooth. This is not uncommon, so don't freak out. Once you re-install the dist, don't tighten down the lock down bolt, just get it snug enough that the dist will rotate with a firm grip on it. This is because you WILL have to set the timing again (with a timing light, of course). If you have a points and condenser dist. make sure that the points are still correct (they shouldn't have changed during all this). Make sure that the battery is FULLY Charged! Than start that bad boy. I would suggest that you have a helper crank over the engine while you stay where you can adjust the dist. (by rotating it SLIGHTLY), and have a fire extinsher or a damp rag/tee shirt handy- in case the carb catches on fire. It most likely will not, but lets be ready for it. One more thing- we expect a video of it running (after you get done with the timing light of course). After it's all perfect, mark the position of the dist shaft and the block. So if you ever have to remove the dist you'll know where it goes back to- I used a small chisle and then marked that with a perm marker-.
 
  #28  
Old 03-10-2019, 09:21 AM
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By now the spark plugs are fouled from all the gas that has been unburned. Either get them bead blasted or replace them. I know this sounds crazy but there is a possibility that the exhaust system is clogged up to the point that nothing can get through. I have seen engines that would start then stop for that reason. Connecting a vacuum gauge may help to rule out a clogged exhaust.
 
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Old 03-10-2019, 09:47 AM
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I really dont think the exhaust is clogged Also I tested spark on cylinder 1 after doing all this cranking. Still has good spark...I dont think the plugs are fouled yet but I guess I'll replace them again
 
  #30  
Old 03-10-2019, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by GaryKip View Post
I agree, with the "Flooded" idea. It sounds like to me that the engine is trying to backfire, but there is no ignition source to cause the actual boom and flame. Then please note, you can rotate that dist. cap to make ANY position on that distributor cap # 1! So the position of the clips may not be exactly the same as the diagram.Here is a pic of mine:

double click on the pic and you can see the clips at 9&3 o'clock position.
The important thing is that the crank is at TDC-Compression stroke for number 1 cylinder- Then double check that the correct spark plug wire is in the correct sequence on the top of the dist. cap!! I installed numbers from an electricians wire marker set on my cap, because I had the cap off of the dist when I installed new wires. Many people also mark the wires too. If you do that, I suggest you mark them at 2 points along the length-makes it easier to follow the wire. Before you crank the engine over, with the engine still at TDC, pop the clips loose from the dist cap,(remove air cleaner & filter for better view) then see if the #1 wire post on the cap is where the rotor is pointed. IF not then you have to loosen the dist. lockdown bolt and rotate the dist. If it will not line up with a very minor turn, then you have to remove the dist and reposition it one gear tooth. This is not uncommon, so don't freak out. Once you re-install the dist, don't tighten down the lock down bolt, just get it snug enough that the dist will rotate with a firm grip on it. This is because you WILL have to set the timing again (with a timing light, of course). If you have a points and condenser dist. make sure that the points are still correct (they shouldn't have changed during all this). Make sure that the battery is FULLY Charged! Than start that bad boy. I would suggest that you have a helper crank over the engine while you stay where you can adjust the dist. (by rotating it SLIGHTLY), and have a fire extinsher or a damp rag/tee shirt handy- in case the carb catches on fire. It most likely will not, but lets be ready for it. One more thing- we expect a video of it running (after you get done with the timing light of course). After it's all perfect, mark the position of the dist shaft and the block. So if you ever have to remove the dist you'll know where it goes back to- I used a small chisle and then marked that with a perm marker-.
That is so true
You need to start at the beginning as said, TDC on compression stroke and see where the rotor is pointing then check firing order.
Even with "mist" coming from some place it should give signs of fire when cranking be it at the right or wrong time.
All good information in this post.
Dave ----
 

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