New member and unwitting Ford F5 owner. I'm a Data Analyst / System Integration Developer AKA "IT Guy" by trade. I've worked on every car I've owned since I was 14 (At 14 I paid $50 for a 63 GMC Pickup) built 2 cars and have done lts of engine and tranny swaps over the years. I'm a good mechanic, novice welder with a 110V Harbor Freight welder, and amateur but clumsy fabricator, and capable of a good (5 foot) paint job currently.

This year for Valetines Day my wife gifted me a 1951 Ford F5. Nothing says "I Love You" like a big old truck, am I right? The truck belonged to the husband of my wife's oldest and dearest friend. The story is that he bought the truck on eBay last year from a seller in Iowa who claimed it had been in a barn in Nebraska for the last 20 years. He had it shipped here to New Hampshire with plans to frame swap it onto a Dodge 1 Ton Dually Frame with a Cummins 5.9. He's got some stuff going on and needed to raise cash so he's been selling of some toys, projects, and what not. One day while my wife was visiting someone had shown up to look at it in response to his craigslist ad, she asked about it and they showed her the truck and she bought it on the spot. We've taken to calling it "The Dump truck of Love" but, givewn where it's come from it was grain truck. It's going to be towed it over to my place after the snow melts. In the mean time, I've been scouring this forum, I've spent hours reading thread after thread.

I've been over to their place and had a good look at it, it's a project for sure.

It's got the 239 V8, Syncro Silent T-98 4 Speed. and a sigle speed rear axle.
Glovebox Tag:
Engine No._ F5R1SP13377 Model 1R-1
Cowl Stamp: SP21B5091 920 I've been trying to decode the cowl stamp but after the SP for the St. Paul plant I'm stuck.

The cab is very solid cab corners are solid and have no rust. The floor allso look good from underneath but it's missing the driver's side door glass and it's been stored outside for at least a year I don't really know whats going on under the rubber floor mat and the 68 years of mud that are under it. There are some rust perforations in the fenders, down by the running boards on both and up where it bolts to the skirt on the driver's side. No rust holes in the doors but, at some point someone welded a set of west coast mirrors directly onto them. The hood has a good sized bondo repair in it. I'm told the engine turns over but doesn't run. The wiring looks pretty much shot. Seat is shot. All 6 wheels are widow makers. The frame looks excellent.
Lot's more pictures in my album. I've also put the hirez originals on Google drive.



I have been looking for a project truck but I had in my head a Dodge WC or Power Wagon or a 1967 to 1972 Ford F-Series. My first thought when I saw it, "What an I going to do with that big ugly thing?". To be honest I don't know yet but it's grown on me. After reading alot here there are lots of ways I could go with it.

I love the flat head V8 in it always been interested in them but never owned one. So for know I'm focused one that. I want to see it I can get it running and what kind of shape it's in. I also need to paint / coat it with something. When we bought our current home my plan is to put up a garage / workshop on the property. This is a little ahead of the plan so it'll be outside for a while. I toying with brushing on some red oxide or Corroseal just so the expossed rust doesn't get worse until i'm ready for sanding / sand blasting.

After that, I don't know. It depends on the engine. I've 3 ideas right now. If the engine runs the easiest is track down some dodge motor home wheels and Dana 70 and find a used stake bed for it. The second would be to swap the axles out and "down grade" it to a 1/2 or 3/4 ton. Third would be to double cab it with another cab, put some one tone axles under it, a 7.3 IDI or Cummins 5.9, and a bed of some sort.

Given my skill and experience I'm leaning towards the 2nd option. Keeping the V8 if it's good, putting some modern disc brake 1/2 or 3/4 ton axles under it, a 5 speed or a AOD. For a bed I'm hoping to track down an F2/F3 Express bed,, if not that then a 55 to 72? 9 Foot Swept Side bed and if not that then whatever I can cobble together.

I'd love and tips and advice on getting the engine running and what i should do given its been sitting so long and also any ideas on what to do with the body while its outside.

THANKS!

 

Hey Ziptar, welcome from Maine.
You have joined the best place on the interwebs for learning about this truck and enjoying it too.
You've already scored points with us for posting photos and truck details on the first post.
As for getting the engine running, well the most important thing is to take your time and ensure it is well lubricated and everything is free, clear and turning before cranking it over with spark.
You might want to keep that T-98 transmission, it is a desireable and rugged one and also the engine is still good.
As for finding an F2/F3 bed...........whooeee...that is a tough order to fill. They are practically non-existent especially in New England. Finding a period-correct flatbed with stake pockets is far easier.
Even easier is to go the 1/2 ton route since beds, fenders and running boards are reproduced.
Either way you will have fun with this truck....and gets loads of support and assistance from this forum.
Tom in Maine

 

Hi Zip! Welcome to FTE the best Ford truck forum on the World Wide Web!

Thanks for the pics. It looks like a nice project. And you've got half of your problems taken care of already......

And that is getting the wife on board. And you've done most of us even better. She bought it for you!

 

Welcome Ziptar! Fine looking beast and a gem of a wife. Both are keepers.

I wouldn't get too concerned about the surface rust right now. Cover the cab with a tarp and clear out any critter nests. These trucks know how to wait patiently for their owners. While you search for wheels, l would get those garage building plans moving. You've done enough wrenching to realize the importance of a proper work space. Just remind your bride that it's for her truck and you only want the best for it. See if that works.

Smarter folks will be along shortly to decode the cowl stampings.

 

Thanks! I'm glad I found this forum, so much detailed information. I'm eager to get started and to figure out what the truck wil become.

pineconeford nice to know there's another enthusiast in my neck of the woods. Appreciate the advice on the engine and I know what mean about the F2/F3 beds. They are out there but it's gonna mean a long road trip and probably buying the rest of the truck along with it. Found a bed on craigslist in Maryland for $450 but it looks real rusty and beat up. There's 6 parts / project trucks out there for not alot of money and three of them are east of the Mississippi, well two and one is literally on the other side. It'll take some patience but I've got time and lots to do before I "need" it. I am hopeful. My sister lives in Charleston South Carolina and my daughter goes to school in Winston-Salem North Carolina so I'm down that way several times a year and the pickins look to be much better than up our way. Maybe I'll find something to bring back one of these times.

abe and FortyNiner you both pointed out a big plus to this project truck that I'd not fully calculated, the Mrs.. She's absolutley hated some of the projects and fixer uppers I've dragged home in the past, this is going to be different for sure. I mean it's ultimatley a reflection of our love, we can't half *** it.

The shop was decided when we first looked at the place it and a larger kitchen were the only things on our list it didn't have. The kitchen improvents and about to get under way. We just bought the place in July lots of other new house stuff took precedence. I have a small barn, more like a glorified single car garage. The Ford is too big for it and my tractor it's attachments and rest of grounds keeping equipment already takes up most of it. If worse come to worse I'll use my bay in the attached garage temporarily it's long and got a high celing. I'll just park my Tundra outside, it'll survive.

Help with the cowl stamping would be great, I've been trying to crack it. It looks like the paint code is Sheridan Blue but the truck is Vermillion inside and out. Who knows though, it's had a body repair and paint already and I'm not convinced the gray primer showing through the paint is original.

I went by a couple of local yards yesterday, my heart about jumped out of my chest when the owner of one told me he had an old Travco motor home buried way in the back of the place with some school buses. I trudged through the snow and found it but it had 6 lug wheels in front and 8 lugs in back. He told me there were loads of old wheels just laying on the ground in the back from before he bought the place. He said to come back after the snow melted and look around, if I found anything I could use I could have them no charge.

 

Zip, I'm guessing you are in coastal NH by the amount of snow cover. So I'm not too far away and if you are going junkyard picking and want some enabling company give me a shout.
There is that magical time of year when the snow melts and before the mosquitoes come out that would be perfect for rooting around looking for stuff on the ground at a junkyard. Before you know it the weeds grow up and cover everything and the ticks come out. If they have old trucks there to pick parts from, bonus.
Tom

 

Great truck, and obviously a woman that REALLY loves you to dump this project on you (pun intended).

Looking forward to updates as you crack into it.

And welcome aboard!

 

Welcome to the forum! You've got a great story and a great truck with pictures in your first post. You've done well and will fit in great here.

On your cowl stamping, it appears you may have something else to the left of the SP (St. Paul) which should be your color code. It is likely a faint or mis-stamped N, for Vermillion. The 21B is your production date code, February 21, 1951. The rest is what Ford called the "rotation number", which is an internal tracking number the factory used, and is meaningless to us.

I would second what fortyniner said about the surface rust. It took 65 years to get to that point, and nothing more or worse is going to happen to it between now and when you blow it apart for the resto. You'll just create more work and expense for yourself if you try to cover it up or coat it with something.

It's extremely rare to find the T98 in an F5 with the 239 V8. They were optional, according to literature, but almost exclusively found in F6's with the 254 6 cylinder. That's a great find if accurate. I don't think I've ever seen one factory.

Good luck with your project!

 

Yup, The misses is a keeper for sure and she's kept me around for 28 years so she's used to having old broken down things laying around.

pinconeford, you nailed it. I'm in the sea coast region, 10 minutes or so east of Hampton. I'll give you a shout when I'm planning to go out and about.

A F2 8ft bed popped up today on craigslist six hours away in New York. It's just the bed no fenders and running boards going by the pictures. It's a little beat and theres rust through in several spots particularly the bottom of the tailgate. I've emailed the seller on specifics and for some closeups of the rust through and the floor, ut's a long trip would like a better look at it. Price is not bad.
https://utica.craigslist.org/pts/d/c...839292377.html Don't anybody go buying it out from under me now I CALL DIBS! He's also got a hood and some trim, I could maybe use the hood but I want to see how bad the bondo repair is on mine first.

52 Merc, Thank you for the chassis decode and production date. You are right on the paint code, there's something stamped there. Still can't make it out when zoomed way in on the high resolution picture unfortunatley. I'll try to sand it lightly when the truck gets here. Also for telling me about the 239 and T98 pairing, that is interesting. I suspect it's factory due to the shift pattern decal on the dash. It's got sevreal other options like sun visors and a Magic Air Heater. It's not extra cab though.


Zoomed in on Chassis number

 

I now own most? of a 1951 F2 8ft bed. Me and a buddy took a road trip yesterday to upsate New York, I bought the bed listed on craigslist for $340.00. Its got some rust and a bunch of steel welded in it that was part of a wrecker frame. I don't think I'll be able to save the header panel and tailgate. The frame needs some steel replaced but is solid. The bedsides however are solid and straight. I still need fenders and running boards but it's a start and I've got something I can use to start measuring the frame and figuring out the rear axle. Pictures in my Album

Important lesson learned when picking up old Ford truck beds... ALWAYS BRING THE TRAILER! After much back and forth on measurments of the F2 bed and the bed of my Tundra the seller and I were convinced that we could slide the F2 bed straight into my Tundra with room to spare, so I decided not to bring a trailer. We were off by an inch and a half.

When measurments go wrong...

Was able to load it, drive 250 miles, and unload it without bending, denting, or destroying anything but man... It took allot of work.

 

Atta boy. You've learned the first important lesson of rusty treasure collecting: Always expect to haul home more than planned. The second is that fellows selling some things for a reasonable price will happily sell you more to clear up space. You were wise to grab pieces for the project regardless of your ability to immediately use them - a key to successful hoarders everywhere. Such a proud day for the FTE enabler community.

[ (Sniff) I'm fine. Just something caught in my eyes. (Sniff) ]

 

Huge fan of that truck, mine has slightly less paint remaining . A couple of places that have helped me out (in addition to this forum) are Chuck's Trucks https://www.chuckstrucksllc.com/ (they have a lot of the original brake parts if you want to keep the drums) and Bauer electronics for a wiring harness (I bought it through chuck, but they might sell it direct out).

I'll be monitoring as you post new info about it. I'm pulling my engine in a couple weeks for an overhaul. Good to see another beast getting some love!

 

Been kinda busy sorry I've not updated recently. Finally had the F5 towed to my place at the end of April. Decided to put it in my little barn and set myself up in there. It fits with room to spare. It'll be a bit cramped times but I think it'll work out.


IT'S HERE!!!

It's new home in my little barn.

I've been doing lots of reading, researching and figuring out which way I want to go with this project. I looked high and low for a set of 5 on 8" 19.5 wheels and Dodge motor home rear axle. I finally gave up.

I decided that as long as I was going to have to swap axles I might as well make it a 4x4 but instead of a frame swap I intend to keep the flathead V8 and the T-98 transmission. Since this is all experimental I hunted for parts on craigslist, scrounged around yards, and bargain hunted for whatever I thought i might be able to use. When I drove down to North Carolina a few weeks ago to pickup my daughter I looked for stuff along the way and picked up several parts on that trip. I've hit a few wrecking yards locally also and made a day trip through NH, Masschussets, and New York picking up parts. So far this is what I have to show for it.

4 16x6 8 Lug Innie Wheels.
A front frame clip from a 68 Bronco with a 3.50 ratio Dana 30 attached.
A really rusty Bronco 3.50 ratio Dana 44 that I saved from the shredder. The C Knuckles are badly pitted but its still sound I think. It may be no good, no idea until I try to bust it apart. It cost $25.00 I figure worth a shot and at the very least I have a template to figure out the front end if I decide to go with that axle.
A 4.56 Dana 60 rear axle and 4.55 Dana 44 closed knuckle front axle from a 1966 F-250 along with the rear leaf springs and rear lift blocks.
A Dana 24 transfer case with rebuilt intermediate, front, and rear drive shafts from a 1965 F-250. (Not in hand yet, picking them up when I take my daughter back to NC in August.)
Also found a single 8 Lug 19.5 wheel in a huge pile of old wheels and tires in a yard. It might not be usable, part of the lip on the back side of the rim is pretty rusty but, it was free! Yard owner says he'll be bustting up that pile with an excavator soon, maybe I can find more...
A set of 4 80s 8 Lug 16x6 outie wheels with almost brand new tires for rolling the project around on.

Total spent on the above ~$900.00

The Dana 60 rear axle is out of something else. I couldn't find a BOM number on it to ID it but it's not the original 1966 F-250 axle. The original spring purches and shock mounts have been cut off and replaced and the date stamp on the ring gear is 6/23/72 The width is right, spring purches measure correct and are the same width as the current dually axle. The differential gears all look good and aren't pitted. I bought both the F-250 Dana 60 and Dana 44 for less including the gas to go get them than local yards quoted me for just a Dana 60 rear. The number on the Ford tag on the Dana 44 comes up as correct for a 1966 F-250. The Bronco Dana 30 and closed knuckle Dana 44 look like they could be brothers, even looks like they share the same parts, might be able to make something out of the two.

I've ordered plugs, points, condenser, dist cap, rotor, belts, thermostats, rad cap, oil filter, new muffler, 12 Volt coil and solenoid, and a factory shop manual from Rock Auto should all be here this week. Going to try to get it running this weekend, family is in town however so might not get to do it. Hopefully the engine is in decent servicable shape. Plan is to only wire up the coil, solenoid, starter, and igntion switch for now. Wiring harness is shot and wil be going 12 volt negative ground when I replace it.

Pulled the seat out, removed the old rubber floor mat, cleaned up the 68 years worth of mud under it, and wire brushed the cab floor to see what I had to deal with. It's not too bad I was surprised.

Initial Cleanup of the Cab Floor

Once / If I can get it running I'll see if I can get the brakes working well enough so I can pull it around back and remove the grain body hoist and save having to cut it up piece by piece inside the barn.

Once that's done I'll swap the rear axle out and then start figuring out the front axle. Hopefully that's done by August when I get the transfer case and drive shafts. I've done some initial measuring and comparing, It's looking like the Dana 24 transfer case should bolt right up to the crossmember that the driveshaft carrier bearing is currently mounted to. It's close won't know for sure until it's here.

I'm also mulling over what to about the 8ft bed and the truck's current 134" wheel base. A. Cut 12" out of the frame and reweld and fish plate it. B. Grind the rivets out of the rear leaf spring mounts slide the rear axle forward 12" and cut the excess off the rear or C. extend the 8ft bed to 9 feet. D. Find a 9ft depot bed.

Other than that I'm still getting the barn outfitted as a shop, moving all tools in and I've got shelves to build. I'll need to buy a Harbor Freight gantry crane and chain hoist too. Could have really used when dealing with all those axles.

 

All the parts I ordered to try to get it running got here Friday. Pulled the old plugs today in preparation, wanted to squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders and turn it over by had a bit and let it set. First part went fine, the turning over part was a no go, she's locked up tight.

I'll let the MMO sit for a day or two then spray some AeroKroil in for good measure then try again end of the week. Hope that does it.

 

There are enough happy stories about freeing a seized flathead back to life to know is it possible. If it were mine, I would pull the heads and eliminate some of the uncertainty - and time delay - in hoping the oils will work.