When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I had to do 6 injector cups on an install of new heads and injectors that was done maybe 1 year ago. (I have an older thread of the slapstick work the shop did that ended up in pitted cups). While in there I replaced nipple cups on the rails, cleaned up all injectors and put back together. When hooking the batteries up I cross wired the leads going to my Isspro stepper gauge module and SMOKED that. I then used the remote starter lead to prime the system since the rails had been drained, did not pull the FICM relay since I was not using the key to prime. Started it up and found my up pipes were mis-aligned so I ended up putting smoke in the EBP tube and fixed every exhaust leak found. Am having some connection issues to AutoEnginuity...keeps disconnecting, I did notice when hooking up the left battery cable + the alarm went off, like usual, but it sounded very weird compared to before. Having a low power issue when driving. I commanded 2000 rpm with AE and it will not go above 1200, when using the pedal in driving or idling it will send the rpms right up to wherever. When driving and the rpms get up above 1200 I am getting very loud pressure noise from the turbo. Pulled it and cleaned/ reinstalled and same thing. Also getting what I think is HIGH Exh backpressure in relation to desired EBP. In the pic I asked for 2000 rpm and it will not go above 1200. Where should I start troubleshooting? This has really got me flustered and not sure what to check next?
Have a look at the boots near the intercooler and if this is one of the 07's check the plastic flex of the cold side intercooler pipe. They are known to crack.
That is the reason people like to get the metal pipe on the cold side. One thing to check is what happens if you disconnect all your extra stuff from the OBD2
port. Do any of the issues solve them selves?
If you used the solenoid wire over by the fan on the passenger side then you ok. The only thing that gets power from that is the solenoid and starter.
For the higher than expected EBP you may want to take some weed whacker line and remove the EBP sensor and run the line down the tube. In other
words rod it out. Now with the EBP sensor off check it with the AE to see what i's reading with the engine on but not running. EBP and MAP should be the
same or very nearly so. If not take a very close look at the sensor and the port to see if some crap got pushed into the sensor port. The other thing to look
at would be the wiring to the connector of the EBP. Use a 10X magnifying lens and a good light. With it unplugged look at the three wires and see if you see
any broken insulation. If you fid a break then pick up a pigtail and splice it in.
The desired back pressure is in psig. The posted back pressure is in psia (absolute). That number has the Baro added in. So with the numbers you posted, your actual EBP is about 1.2 psi above desired. I'm not sure that difference is much to worry about.
Riff Raff CAC boots are solid, cold side was changed to metal years ago. Nothing on the OBD2 port and it was the solenoid wire I used to prime. I already removed and cleaned the EBP tube, wasn't obstructed but cleaned a little soot and replaced the sensor. I did verify MAP and EBP with KOEO and they were real close...did not know the BARO was added to the absolute as bismic stated so that explains what I thought was high EBP when running. I did do a quick look over of the harness and found a little smashing under the front of the turbo but have since opened it up and the wires were good so I added a piece of heat wrap and re positioned for the smashing.
I am getting some really odd reactions from the PCM when loading SCT tunes or back to stock, such as CAN failures, no response from external node, VIN mismatch, etc. and I clear those and drive and they don't return until reloading a tune. I put my meter on all fuses and checked for continuity. I hate throwing parts at it until it's fixed but at this point I had to order a new PCM, if that isn't the fix I will pull and open the harness and closely inspect. Seems to make sense to that when cross wiring leads on the left side battery long enough to get the wires to the external gauge module smoking that it could have damaged the PCM since there is power at all times on at least 1 wire going to it, the gauge module is also activated with the key on so who knows what happened inside that when I hooked it up incorrectly. Thank you both for the help, I will continue to post my findings for future ref to others.
After replacing turbo with a new stock unit, doing pinpoint tests found connector at ABS was all crudded up, cleaned and reconnected. Replaced PCM, FICM, pulled injectors to check and reinstalled to 26lb.ft. Still having issue with low power from a stop. Played around with AE some more, went into Transmission control. Getting Lost comm w/ TCM and IC CAN comm bus fault. Also went through testing IC with commanding tach to certain values. When I tell it go to 700 it pins to 2800, any command over 700 and it pins to 5k. Also while driving and monitoring veh speed in AE under Trans mode it shows I'm going no more than .2 mph. Pulling IC and sending to CircuitBoardMedics.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.