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i remember that i seperated that wire because everytime i hooked it up to the power my battery light would stay on even with the truck off
The wire doesn't get connected to power, it gets connected to the excitor on the alternator. It provides the alternator with power when the ignition is on. If you back feed it with battery power the dash light will illuminate.
The green with red stripe is the power wire that should be going to the alternator and provide it with the switched power.
so ever since I've had this thing the green wire with the red stripe has been set off to the side and my alternator worked just fine. This one wasn't working without it so this morning and went and hooked it up and everything works now. They were both the exact same alternator wired up the exact same way. Was it just luck that the other one was kicking on? I'm really confused at this point. I wouldn't think that would make a difference on the same alternator. Maybe I did just get lucky with the first one.
Erm, can you give us a picture of the back of the alternator? http://www.prestolite.com/Prestolite - Leece Neville
Some googling shows me that a Leece Neville alternator is just a one-wire alt: Ground to ground, Output to B+. It switches itself on and off as needed. There is no battery light feedback or anything else.
Erm, can you give us a picture of the back of the alternator? http://www.prestolite.com/Prestolite - Leece Neville
Some googling shows me that a Leece Neville alternator is just a one-wire alt: Ground to ground, Output to B+. It switches itself on and off as needed. There is no battery light feedback or anything else.
I was under that impression as well given that the first one worked with just a power and ground and then the power and ground for the accessory voltmeter that I added. Anytime I would start the truck the aftermarket voltmeter would kick on like the alternator kicked on because it's wired straight to the regulator. So anytime the regulator kicks on the gauge is going to kick on. Here are some schematics and pictures of exactly what I have and how I have it wired. Basically I had to hook the green wire with the red tracer on it to the alternator. It was cut short so I had to run a red wire. The red wire coming from the harness is the green with red stripe and the other red one is to the voltmeter. Even when I had the first one hooked up without the green wire with the red stripe the voltmeter in the cab that came Factory still worked and it still works both ways. So why does the same alternator work one way but not the other and then the other way but not one way? That's what I'm curious about. I am going to look over those leece Neville testing procedures when I get the time. I'm going to try and attach all these pictures but I'm not sure how many I can attach at once.
What are the two pink/red wires going to the regulator terminal doing?
one goes to the aftermarket voltmeter so i know that the alternator is kicking on, so if the alternator doesnt work the guage wont work. The second one runs to the green wire with the red stripe.
one goes to the aftermarket voltmeter so i know that the alternator is kicking on, so if the alternator doesnt work the guage wont work. The second one runs to the green wire with the red stripe.
Disconnect the second one. Should be no need for it.
Disconnect the second one. Should be no need for it.
That wire needs to stay. The alternator needs a switched ignition wire. The issue is the wiring of the volt meter, the meter should not be on the circuit. The volt meter may be providing a resistance path to ground through the internal gauge. The voltmeter needs to be off the fuse block.
The issue is the wiring of the volt meter, the meter should not be on the circuit. The volt meter may be providing a resistance path to ground through the internal gauge. The voltmeter needs to be off the fuse block.
This^^
Wire the volt meter to any ignition hot wire. The alternator will kick in and out at different variables and will probably wear out the volt meter anyways.
As long as you can monitor that the voltage is charging but not over charging there is no other need or anything to monitor
Macrobb i agree that i shouldnt need the wire being as it is supposed to turn itself on and off whenever the belt turns and it senses flow (i think) and also the one i had for almost a year on there never had it on there and did fine and it was the exact same. Ford390gashog, that alternator looks to be different on the back than mine, mine is less complex. Darkovercast, i want to be able to monitor the alternator while driving instead of monitoring it through the factory system since the truck and wiring are so old so i dont really believe its that reliable. I cant imagine a guage creating that much resistance and even if it did what would that have to do with the alternator self starting on and off with or without the green wire and when the trucks on and off? Sorry i ask a ton of questions not to question intelligence but to further my own and youll never know if you dont ask
With the leece Neville being such a weird swap mot many have done it so there isn't a quick wiring guide to give you. Why did you want the leece Neville instead of the common ford 3g?
With the leece Neville being such a weird swap mot many have done it so there isn't a quick wiring guide to give you. Why did you want the leece Neville instead of the common ford 3g?
I didn't realize that it was a weird swap. I just went to O'Reilly's and told them I had an 88 F-350 with a 7.3 and this is what they gave me. Then I read up on the 3-g which I knew about years ago from audio equipment it was something we used to do when we had subwoofers in a car to push more power to the subwoofers or rather allow more power to the subwoofers. I have to 65 batteries in here and I also have 4 twelve in subwoofers being pushed by a 4000 watt 1 ohm stable amp. I have running board lights cab lights headlights and I just wanted to have something powerful enough to charge both the batteries and run everything. Whenever I do something I usually try to make sure that I don't have to do it again because I hate touching stuff twice for the most part. I understand with mechanics you have to generally speaking. Also I read somewhere that these usually came with two alternators sometimes? I don't see where that would fit under my engine bay but I didn't want to have to run two of them. When I got it the guy had two different size batteries in it and a little small alternator I think it was around 60 amps. The guy was an idiot but smart enough to be dangerous.
Yeah that's not a stock alternator and these trucks didn't have dual alternators. The leece Neville was only installed on ambulance prep E series Van's as an option.
I have one in the shed, and indeed it come off an ambulance, i nabbed it with all the spacers and brackets to work as it bolts in a little different iirc. It only had 1 wire hooked to it and it was the key on power.
