Transmission done for? Won’t go into drive.
#1
Transmission done for? Won’t go into drive.
So for the best 6 months my transmission has given me some trouble where it wouldn’t up shift until I left of throttle ,but I never knew why and learned to drive with it. About a month ago the transmission started not going into drive in the morning when it was cold until I have a bit of throttle, it has continuously done this some days worse then others but it always went forwards after a lil throttle. Now about a weak ago the truck started shuddering really bad when taking off from a stop until about 5 mph then drove normally and when I was at a stop and left of pedal it wouldn’t roll forwards like it usually would. I have kept the fluid up to full and added Lucas transmission treatment pretty often. The fluid on the dipstick is a little dark and does smell a lil bit burnt but not bad.In a stroke of hope I was thinking my rear drums brakes were hanging causing the shuddering and lack of movement so I pulled them apart and they were sticking a little bit so I readjusted and took it for a drive and it didn’t shudder or stay still when not on pedal.it was okay for about 5 miles then back to shuddering and being sluggish. Then today I was on my way home and around the last corner to my house my truck stopped accelerating and was coasting, I stopped and couldn’t get the truck to drive forward again,but would go in reverse, I pulled it around with my brothers truck and backed it into drive way and pulled off the drums again. Now here’s the part that makes me think the transmission might not be done, when the rear axle is on jackstands and the tires are off the ground they turn in drive but then as soon as they are on the ground they do not. So is it something to do with brakes?are my forward clutches shot l, maybe my torque converter is acting up? I’m not sure. Really appreciate any help and thanks in advance( 1989 F350 7.3 idi E4oD 2wd Crew cab long bed dually 102,000 miles)
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#4
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
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It would be in high gear in D without power.That could explain why the wheels spin freely under no load.If you do have high gear in D,you should be able to tell by giving it enough fuel.You'll have 2nd gear in both manual shifted 1 and 2 positions.The OD cancel switch glows dim when this is the case in the 9th gen trucks but I dunno about the 8th gens like yours.
Just in case you figure out all you've got going on, is a loss of power to your trans,here's the relay locations;
Just in case you figure out all you've got going on, is a loss of power to your trans,here's the relay locations;
#5
It would be in high gear in D without power.That could explain why the wheels spin freely under no load.If you do have high gear in D,you should be able to tell by giving it enough fuel.You'll have 2nd gear in both manual shifted 1 and 2 positions.The OD cancel switch glows dim when this is the case in the 9th gen trucks but I dunno about the 8th gens like yours.
Just in case you figure out all you've got going on, is a loss of power to your trans,here's the relay locations;
Just in case you figure out all you've got going on, is a loss of power to your trans,here's the relay locations;
#7
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
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Cheapest would likely be a used pig in the poke off craigslist or salvage yard. If you can r&r yourself that’s an option as well as a bench build. That’s cheaper, a carry in and out, but they won’t normally warranty their rebuild because you can trash it jamming a front pump with torque converter (if it’s like older ford autos). I wouldn’t imagine many shops would want to do that but I don’t know. Because then everyone who screwed up their own install would trash talk them and their reputation could suffer. But I had a c6 and c4 both done that way years ago.
ive had friends who’s had bad luck with some common chain name rebuilds, so I can’t comment there.
i don’t know what a used one would run but you could surely get it in within 2 day weekend, especially if you have trans jack. If not, you can struggle wth floor jack but it’d be good if you have a buddy. You can always get close but not quite there and have to muscle it the last short ways.
ive had friends who’s had bad luck with some common chain name rebuilds, so I can’t comment there.
i don’t know what a used one would run but you could surely get it in within 2 day weekend, especially if you have trans jack. If not, you can struggle wth floor jack but it’d be good if you have a buddy. You can always get close but not quite there and have to muscle it the last short ways.
#11
Cheapest would likely be a used pig in the poke off craigslist or salvage yard. If you can r&r yourself that’s an option as well as a bench build. That’s cheaper, a carry in and out, but they won’t normally warranty their rebuild because you can trash it jamming a front pump with torque converter (if it’s like older ford autos). I wouldn’t imagine many shops would want to do that but I don’t know. Because then everyone who screwed up their own install would trash talk them and their reputation could suffer. But I had a c6 and c4 both done that way years ago.
ive had friends who’s had bad luck with some common chain name rebuilds, so I can’t comment there.
i don’t know what a used one would run but you could surely get it in within 2 day weekend, especially if you have trans jack. If not, you can struggle wth floor jack but it’d be good if you have a buddy. You can always get close but not quite there and have to muscle it the last short ways.
ive had friends who’s had bad luck with some common chain name rebuilds, so I can’t comment there.
i don’t know what a used one would run but you could surely get it in within 2 day weekend, especially if you have trans jack. If not, you can struggle wth floor jack but it’d be good if you have a buddy. You can always get close but not quite there and have to muscle it the last short ways.
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okay so upon investigation I discovered I in fact do not have a E40d despite what my vin tells me... I have a C6 with a gear venders over drive behind it,whether this was swapped in at some point or the vin was wrong (highly doubt it) I do not have the tranny I thought. I did a flush and cleaned everything up not anything out of ordinary a lil bit of shavings but no chuncks.after flushing the truck did the same thing, but after thinking a lil bit I removed the line going into the vacuum modulator and got in the truck....and it shifted into drive,but still to get it to move I had to push down about halfway on throttle.so this is definitely a vacuum issue now,right? Any ideas were to check for leaks,advice thank you