Plan on buying the 4 Parker sleeves for the fuel lines that attach to the bowl. They will be trashed when you take them off to get the bowl out.

Regarding the CCV doghouse o-rings: it doesn't take too long for them to soak up oil and swell. When you remove the doghouse the two larger ones will probably not fit back into the groove for re-install if you haven't replaced them recently. The two smaller ones that go on the bolts get chewed up pretty easily so it's usually a good idea to replace them when you pull the doghouse (which you'll have to do to get the driver's side valve cover off). They aren't that expensive (4 Viton O-rings to reseal the Crank Case Vent cover)

 

Never have I ever....had to remove the CCV doghouse to get the drivers VC off.

 

For $5, I'll go ahead and pick the CCV o-rings up to be safe.

And yeah - the Parker Seals come in the complete Fuel Bowl Rebuild kit - which I planned on going with.

 

Basically every O ring is a rotting bomb. Rebuild the fuel bowl, check the fuel lines under the clamps, glow plugs, the harness will have clips that snap into the gasket. Make sure all wires are out of harms way.

 

I can tell what every picture is except the last one?

 

Passenger side fuel line.

 

 

Since you want to increase fuel pressure a little you should consider Riff Raff's FRX. Stronger fuel pressure regulator so you don't have to worry about the threads stripping, comes with a couple of different springs for different pressures, will keep the air out of the injectors which is good for the injectors and quiets down the engine.

https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/fuel-rail-crossover-frx/

 

I knew about this option, but dropping $200 on it is pretty difficult. Wouldn't the spring be doing the same thing though? As long as I'm careful to not strip the threads?

 

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Absolutely you can change just the spring or put a bb under the one you have or cut a winding or 2 off. Any of these are ways to adjust pressure. The main purpose of the Frx is to allow fuel to flow back from the rails in the head to the return side of the system so air bubbles aren't trapped and forced thru the injectors. Air is not good for injectors and without air the engine is much quieter. The billet housing is stronger than the original which is a side benefit. It's one mod I don't regret doing although mine is a Gen one and cost less.

 

This might be a solution for you as well.

Replacement Fuel Pressure Relief housing - Billet Aluminum w/pressure shim springs

 

@brettdacosta ....are you having issues with fuel pressure? What is your fuel pressure?

 

I don't believe so. What would be some of the most evident symptoms?

I actually have a GlowShift fuel pressure gauge I was going to install during all of this work too.

Currently I don't have a way of reading my pressure, but I figured a little extra psi while I'm in there can't hurt? ... or can it?

 

It just appeared to me that money was a factor in some of your decision making process and were throwing money at one thing that doesn't require immediate attention.