80's up rear axles/SRW DRW
#46
The motor and tranny are out of the 2wd.
I just got the transfer case out of the 4x4. It is a Borg Warner 1345. I did some reading on those and it sounds like there can be an issue with those (and the 1356s) on a triangular piece related to the oil pump system on the input shaft.
Any thoughts on that while it's out? I never heard any noises coming from it and it only has about 83k miles on it.
I just got the transfer case out of the 4x4. It is a Borg Warner 1345. I did some reading on those and it sounds like there can be an issue with those (and the 1356s) on a triangular piece related to the oil pump system on the input shaft.
Any thoughts on that while it's out? I never heard any noises coming from it and it only has about 83k miles on it.
#48
I guess I should have known better than thinking it was going to be as easy as I thought...
Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions on changing the crossmember where the transmission mounts? I think it will be next to impossible to find a crossmember out of a cab and chassis that was set up for a four-wheel drive. Swapping my four-wheel drive crossmember into the two-wheel drive looks like it will be a complete nightmare because the frames are different widths at that point
The front cross members under the motor are different as well but I think I can deal with that.
Does anybody have any ideas or suggestions on changing the crossmember where the transmission mounts? I think it will be next to impossible to find a crossmember out of a cab and chassis that was set up for a four-wheel drive. Swapping my four-wheel drive crossmember into the two-wheel drive looks like it will be a complete nightmare because the frames are different widths at that point
The front cross members under the motor are different as well but I think I can deal with that.
#50
Do you have a welder and can weld? I would cut the center out of the cab and chassis 2wd crossmember, and cut the center out of the regular pickup the same length in a flat area common to both and swap the 4x4 center into the cab and chassis crossmember and weld it in place.
You need the 4x4 mount to be 2 inches lower, and 1 inch narrower to fit the cab and chassis frame correct? I think cutting and swapping the center would achieve this wouldn't it? If you can't weld it, see what a shop would charge to do it for you.
P.S. I guess you could cut 1/2 inch out of each side of the 4x4 crossmember and achieve the same thing?
You need the 4x4 mount to be 2 inches lower, and 1 inch narrower to fit the cab and chassis frame correct? I think cutting and swapping the center would achieve this wouldn't it? If you can't weld it, see what a shop would charge to do it for you.
P.S. I guess you could cut 1/2 inch out of each side of the 4x4 crossmember and achieve the same thing?
#51
Do you have a welder and can weld? I would cut the center out of the cab and chassis 2wd crossmember, and cut the center out of the regular pickup the same length in a flat area common to both and swap the 4x4 center into the cab and chassis crossmember and weld it in place.
You need the 4x4 mount to be 2 inches lower, and 1 inch narrower to fit the cab and chassis frame correct? I think cutting and swapping the center would achieve this wouldn't it? If you can't weld it, see what a shop would charge to do it for you.
You need the 4x4 mount to be 2 inches lower, and 1 inch narrower to fit the cab and chassis frame correct? I think cutting and swapping the center would achieve this wouldn't it? If you can't weld it, see what a shop would charge to do it for you.
Yes it needs to be lower because the mount for the tranny on the transfer case adapter is two inches lower than on the 2wd tranny output mount.
What I'm thinking now is that I can take the 4x4 bracket out, cut approximately 1/2 inch off each side, weld the existing holes shut and drill new holes where the holes are in the frame. Luckily it appears it's flat enough in this area to pull that off.
I will have to do the same thing on the two brackets on the side of the crossmember that bolt to it and the top frame rail. I will have weld the holes up on the top of those and redrill them and have to notch out the the inside of the top frame rails to compensate for the 1" difference.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1960fordf350
1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
06-28-2019 07:42 AM
arnoldhunter
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
10-19-2010 08:48 PM
godblessmud
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
10-05-2007 09:12 PM
81_intellectual_brute
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
9
12-13-2003 10:58 AM