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Hi Guys, finally getting around to having some time to tackle this swap, did a lot of reading in the forum and there is a lot of information from everyone, the knowledge is first class !, I guess i'm a little unsure of the complete process, so I'm reaching out to the guys who know the best about fords !, I have a 1979 F 250 4x4 C6 automatic with the 400M, I have a complete 1973 429 from a thunderbird, is there any bumps in the road I'm going to encounter ? I see the motor mount swap, the exhaust manifold issue, right side ?, oil pan swap and pick up, any other issues that need attention and tips for installation, EX: power steering pump clearance ? also the suppliers that have these parts or complete kits, thanks for any and all input, thanks Mike
Well sounds like you have it under control, especially the exhaust manifold issues using car ones, get some truck ones. Read up on a alternator relocate "high mount " kit. And when you get the oil pan make sure you get the dvrs side pan mounted dip stick. The front cover (unless you change it) will still have the front sump oil dip stick set up and that will not work (properly) for a rear sump pan oil reading.
A wise guy one said on the Project Bronco site....: Starters & Distributors –if you have a 351M/400 pull off the factory distributor and the factory starter. Why? Because they will bolt on and work perfectly on your new 429/460 engine. If your 429/460 has a points-type distributor (most pre-1975 engines) then you should reuse your Bronco's Duraspark II electronic distributor.
One other neat little item you can use on your 429/460 is a 92-93 7.5L F-Series gear-reduction starter. They are smaller, weigh less, and have more torque than the standard full-size Ford 351M/400/429/460 starters. If you plan to install headers on your Bronco with a 429/460 engine, then the gear-reduction starter will give you a little more room to work with in a cramped engine compartment. You can purchase these starters from most auto parts stores for around $200.00.
And when you have the motor out, that is a great time to get in there and get a eagle eye on the vin # on the passenger side frame rail.
I would put a Super Cooler on the list. The old 400's rad would not cool my big block. I would stay away from L&L's alt bracket. I just made up a temp one when I did the swap, kinda grafting the old 400's bracket into it and it lined up good but not too pretty. A couple years later I thought It would be nice to have better lookn alt brackets so I bought the L&L's. What a piece of junk, I sent it back as it was so far off there was no sense in even trying to start the engine up, the belt would have flown right off. Maybe I just got the bad one, who knows ? Also stay away from L&L vulcanized motor mounts, I was so mad I had to torch the hell out of my towers to get it to sit down. I tried everything, 6 foot spud bar, even loosened trans and transfer case up, hooked a come along from hitch to transfer case trying to pull/shift everything back to no avail. Then they didn't even last 2 years before they were coming apart. I went to the West Coast Bronco mounts but other companies make the same mount, no vulcanized crap. They use what looks like a small polly spring bushing and a through bolt and they are great, just fell right in place ( after I replaced the towers L&L would have me torch to hell.) L&L outboard headers, no luck there either. I'm mad about them too ! Left one was pretty good but the right one ? If I wasn't in a hurry at the time I would have sent it back. The welds look like chicken scratch, just terrible and the collector points down to the ground, enough that anyone who looks at it will mention it and the welds. So that's my experience with L&L stuff. My power steering bracket is a heavily modified old 3 bolt draw style, it worked out good. The fan and spacer came from the 400. Had to enlarge the center hole in the spacer to get it over the bigger shaft. I tried the clutch fan while I was experimenting, trying different things in desperation to make the old 400 rad work before finally throwing in the towel and going Super Cooler. It actually ran noticeably hotter with the clutch fan. That's tested and proven now, so if anyone tells you different you know for sure not to bother now.
One thing about putting the 400 dist in, check the drive gear to block clearance. Who knows, you can't just look in there and see clearance. Too much might get you some spark chatter and gear wear, too little will put your engine in the junk pile. Many years ago I ended up changing a 400 out of a Bronco. The guy switched dist for some reason and it never ran again. I pulled the dist and the gear was junk, the cam was junk and last but not least...the block was junk ! So it can happen. Since then I just put a new gear on and reset the clearance anytime I switch one. Cheep insurance.
Thanks Guys. as always, the best of the best are here ! all this information is very helpful as I only want to do this once, I will do the manual conversion at some point, but not this round, sending the 429 out for a complete rebuild, don't want any issues arising after the install, i'm sure I'll be asking more as I go, i appreciate all the input !... I wont be going with L&L, so now looking else where for those parts, keep you guys posted, Thanks Mike
" 79 F250 mounts
Here is all the mounts I have found that you can buy for 79 250 4x4 engine swap.
L&L products part#030495 cost 125.00 set their phone number is 972-475-5202
Auto fab part# FTX460A cost 330.00 set their phone number is 619-562-1740
West coast Bronco part# 20710 cost 139.95 set their phone number is 760-364-3808
Performance Unlimited. Didn't have a part# on them. cost 99.90 set their phone number is 262-673-4077
Have seen 390 mounts used by notching the rubber down in the top hole and redrill hole farther down. Get a plate of steel drill the 460 engine mount bolt pattern and take the 351 or 400 mount and drill that pattern on the plate I done this myself. I seen a guy running 1980-97 truck style mounts in a 79 F250 too but they have a double stud have to make a second hole in your frame perches."
One thing I did feel as though I should do to the west Coast Bronco mounts, The through bolt only had two tack welds on the bolts head on the inside. I Tig welded all around the face side, all around the bold. It probably would have held but that's just me.
In my experience. I had 7” of lift, so front sump oil pan worked for me, in my F250, not in my F350 (4”). Modified 400 alt and pwr steering brackets in my F250, alt bracket in my F350, CVF Saginaw pwr steering bracket in my F350. L&L fenderwell exit headers in my F250, 12 yrs no problems, Maddog fenderwell headers in my F350, 5 years no problems. L&L motor mounts in both trucks, so far no problems, but I plan on replacing mounts in my F350 with non-vulcanized cause I’m worried about separation. Ignition, factory dist in F250, D.U.I. Ignition in my F350.
If you want an absolute perfect would-be factory fit, look up NORTH COUNTRY SPECIALTIES. Custom frame perches allow using later model factory 460 truck mounts. Not cheap, but very well made and work/fit perfect. I've used two sets and have a third. Last set website kept showing "sold out" I finally got ahold of Trent/Owner by phone - he welded another set and I had them in a week or so. Perches are $225 and shipping is around $50. They are heavy.
I broke two sets of L&L mounts from 2001-2004 with a previous 472 for what its worth. Had great luck with their alt bracket, and had one set of chassis and one set of fenderwell headers that were great(chassis set still on the truck i sold in 2008)
02-17-2019, 05:14 PM
1979 F 250 4x4 auto/429 swap
