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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Progress on my truck problems

 
  #16  
Old 02-17-2019, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
Did the normal crank then slow crank then normal again happen after you turned the dist. counter clock wise?
If so turn it back where it was and a little more and give it a try.
You are vary close and it should run if it cranks normally. If you hold the throttle open a little when starting what happens.
Dave ----
Yes that's what it did. I'll move it back and see what it does tomorrow
 
  #17  
Old 02-17-2019, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 1981 F100 View Post
Went out this evening,and I moved the dist counter clockwise just a touch, no change. First few cranking revolutions, starts off normal, then acts like low battery, then normal cranking speed. All new cables, new starter, relay and battery. Also it will not fire, has spark, fresh fuel very good compression. I am stumped here, as to what the problem is or what to try next.
If this were a v8 I would say your timing chain has skipped some teeth. I have heard of instances of the 300 six gear stripping teeth. I think the large gear was a fiber gear, and they have been known to lose teeth occasionally.
 
  #18  
Old 02-17-2019, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
Did the normal crank then slow crank then normal again happen after you turned the dist. counter clock wise?
If so turn it back where it was and a little more and give it a try.
You are vary close and it should run if it cranks normally. If you hold the throttle open a little when starting what happens.
Dave ----
Isn't this the part where you mention dwell angle?
 
  #19  
Old 02-17-2019, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
Did the normal crank then slow crank then normal again happen after you turned the dist. counter clock wise?
If so turn it back where it was and a little more and give it a try.
You are vary close and it should run if it cranks normally. If you hold the throttle open a little when starting what happens.
Dave ----
I turned it clockwise, and it started right up. Has a slight miss at idle yet, but I might have to turn it some more, plus I had to plug the silicone hose that feeds the choke pull down piston. Anything else I need to do to see about making it idle better?
 
  #20  
Old 02-18-2019, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 1981 F100 View Post
I turned it clockwise, and it started right up. Has a slight miss at idle yet, but I might have to turn it some more, plus I had to plug the silicone hose that feeds the choke pull down piston. Anything else I need to do to see about making it idle better?
Good to hear you got it running, bet it feels good.
I would not worry about the miss at this time till you get it "dialed in".
If all fluids are good let it run to get up to normal temp. Wile it get up to temp throw a timing light on it and as a start set it to the sticker maybe 8* BTDC just make sure the idle speed is not to high as this will throw the timing off when it is set to the right speed.
With the timing set then set idle speed. You may need / should recheck both before calling them good.

It should be up to temp by this time, did the miss go away? Check for vacuum leaks, all hoses and caps in place.
If that checks out ok you can move on to carb mixture adjusting. Turn the mixture screw out a little at a time (1/4 to 1/8 a turn at a time) till the idle slows down or the motor starts running ruff.
Then turn it in till idle lowers or run ruff then turn it out to where it idles good. You may need to lower the idle speed when doing this.

Once this is all done still have a miss? I would take the truck for a spin to blow it out that may get that miss to go but if not make a new post and we will see what we can find & fix.
Dave ----
 
  #21  
Old 02-18-2019, 01:31 PM
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Went out to take it for a drive, all it will do is run rough, spit out the carb and backfire out the tailpipe. and it was running decently last night. I honestly give up on this turd
 
  #22  
Old 02-18-2019, 03:33 PM
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How tight is the dist.?
It should be tight enough it will not tune when running, yes I have seen this happen, but loose enough you can turn it to adjust timing then lock it down.
Also how long did you have it running when running ruff?
Maybe the choke needs adjusting, if the choke was closed and fast idle not working or the choke pull off not working could cause this but we need to run it a little more.
Also withal that has gone on them new plugs could foul easier and why it needs to run more to burn off the junk, if they can may need new plugs again.
I say start it again and hold the RPM up to about 1500 to 2000 for a few min. to burn off the junk then see if it will idle.

This is why car / truck makers went EFI, let the computer do all the adjusting and people just key turners.
Once you learn how everything inter acts and how to adjust them it is not all that bad.
Dave ----
 
  #23  
Old 02-18-2019, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
How tight is the dist.?
It should be tight enough it will not tune when running, yes I have seen this happen, but loose enough you can turn it to adjust timing then lock it down.
Also how long did you have it running when running ruff?
Maybe the choke needs adjusting, if the choke was closed and fast idle not working or the choke pull off not working could cause this but we need to run it a little more.
Also withal that has gone on them new plugs could foul easier and why it needs to run more to burn off the junk, if they can may need new plugs again.
I say start it again and hold the RPM up to about 1500 to 2000 for a few min. to burn off the junk then see if it will idle.

This is why car / truck makers went EFI, let the computer do all the adjusting and people just key turners.
Once you learn how everything inter acts and how to adjust them it is not all that bad.
Dave ----
I had the dist locked down before I fired it up last night,carb is adjusted. I tried getting it to 1500-2000 RPM, but I could maybe get 500 at best before it backfired loud enough, was sounding like gunshots
 
  #24  
Old 02-18-2019, 06:17 PM
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I had a car that I only started up to move on & off car trailer and may sit months between starts.
Went to start to move and anything over an idle it would back fire out the tail pipe, could not tell what side duel pipes but idled good.
I first thought maybe a stuck valve so did a compression test and that came back good on all 8 holes.
Plugs looked new as I replaced them not long ago. Put it back together started up and did the same thing, back fire above idle.

May testing I was able to trace it to 1 hole, header pipe not getting hot. Swapped the plug with another hole and that hole did not fire.
New set of plugs and did wires at same time and it then ran great. That 1new plug, even looked new was the issue.

So with that said I would replace all the plugs and see what happens and if it runs good run it a long time to get up to temp.
Dave ----
 
  #25  
Old 02-18-2019, 11:15 PM
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I will try that. I also wondered, if when I cut away the old computer harness, that I might have accidentally cut the resistor wire?
 
  #26  
Old 02-19-2019, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 1981 F100 View Post
I will try that. I also wondered, if when I cut away the old computer harness, that I might have accidentally cut the resistor wire?
I thought you hooked the DSII setup into the resistance wire for power?
If so then I don't think so.
Also if you don't hook into it for power what is hooked to it now?
I don't think that is the problem, not running it enough when running good to burn all the crap out is the problem.
Dave - - - -
 
  #27  
Old 02-19-2019, 02:49 PM
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My 1982 300 I-6 timing mark. Line in the middle of the White chalk mark.

 

Last edited by Wagonboy; 02-19-2019 at 02:50 PM. Reason: clarity
  #28  
Old 02-19-2019, 04:07 PM
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I thought this would be relevant to this thread and one more, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18492658 Can a couple of you check it out, then come back and list all the different ways you can set or adjust or restrict timing and advance and then explain all that in detail over here?
 
  #29  
Old 02-19-2019, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Kramercd View Post
I thought this would be relevant to this thread and one more, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post18492658 Can a couple of you check it out, then come back and list all the different ways you can set or adjust or restrict timing and advance and then explain all that in detail over here?
Kramercd, you should start your own post to ask this question as we don't want to mix different issues in with others that may not have any thing to do with the OP issues.
But just quick answer every engine even if the same size etc. will not work with the same advance curve set up.
Dave ----
 
  #30  
Old 02-19-2019, 09:03 PM
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I looked again and yes I have it hooked into the resistor wire setup. As far as running it to burn the crap out, it won't run long enough to do that with out violently backfiring out the exhaust and spitting out of the carburetor. Wondering if it does in fact have timing gear teeth broken? When I bring it to TDC on compression stroke, it points to #1 every time, rotor turns when I crank it over
 

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