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Whatís that sound?

 
  #1  
Old 02-15-2019, 11:17 PM
Eaglescout94
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Whatís that sound?

Here recently Iíve noticed a growl/humm/ slight vibration in my 2000 f350 4x4. It only seems to happen from 50 mph or so and up, I can hear it and feel it in my seat and floor board. The front wheel bearings are good, ball joints are good, the u joints all appear to be fine, the carrier bearing in the rear driveshaft will move less than a half inch in any, sideways, direction and doesnít looks to be bad but Iím not really sure on it. This issue just popped up, I serviced the truck a couple weeks ago and the only thing thatís been done recently is I installed a snow plow bracket on the front end, havenít hooked the plow up just bolted the brackets to the frame. Does anyone have a clue where I should look at next or possible causes of my sudden low sound?it has appeared seemly out of no where and nothing looks/ feels wrong or wore out.
 
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Old 02-16-2019, 06:05 AM
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Just throwing out some ideas.
Are your front hubs both unlocking? Possibly one hanging up engaged.
Check brakes for a stuck caliper or caliper slide pins.
Check the double cardan joint on the front drive shaft really well. If that starts to go out, it can set up a vibration that will break the transfer case wide open.
 
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Old 02-16-2019, 07:19 AM
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Front hub are both unlocked but one did make a funny noise when I pulled it and spun it in my hand. Front brakes are good but I didn’t get a chance to check the rear when I serviced the truck. I noticed a slight ticking sound when I pressed up the the front shaft that sounded like it was coming from the double joint but with the skid plate I couldn’t get a good to look to check for what was moving if anything to cause the sound. I’m debating just pulling the front shaft out entirely, I saw the recent thread about the grenaded transfer case.
 
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Old 02-16-2019, 08:12 AM
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symtoms suggest ujoint to me.

while a visual check of ujoints can be helpfull to see the conditions of the seals it is not possible to tell if the besrings are shot by looking at them.
 
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Old 02-16-2019, 09:51 AM
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Try manually locking hubs & see if noise goes away,I agree the way to accurately test U-joints is to drop the drive shaft.
 
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Old 02-16-2019, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Eaglescout94 View Post
.................... The front wheel bearings are good, ball joints are good, .............................
How did you determine that the front wheel bearings are good?

Few years ago I had faulty front unit bearing but it did not have any noticeable slack at all.

 
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Old 02-16-2019, 04:01 PM
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Guess I’ll see about dropping the driveshaft and checking the u joints. I hadn’t thought about locking th per hubs and driving to see if anything changes, if the noise goes away what would be my part to replace?
I checked the front wheel bearings for slop and spun them, no bad noises or any noise I believe. They should be golden, new 4 years ago and greased every time I service the truck.
 
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Old 02-17-2019, 01:00 PM
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Before i drop the front shaft, are the u joints all the same part number? I’d hate to pull the shaft out to check the joints and find out one or more is bad then not be able to put the shaft back in fresh. With the hubs locked and the noise goes away what would this point to? I changed out the hub bearings about 4 years ago but all the u joints on the truck are the same as when i bought it, roughly 50k miles ago. Ive never noticed any play when pushing on the driveshafts to check the joints like i do on the class 8 sized trucks.
 
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Old 02-17-2019, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Eaglescout94 View Post
This issue just popped up, I serviced the truck a couple weeks ago and the only thing thatís been done recently is I installed a snow plow bracket on the front end, havenít hooked the plow up just bolted the brackets to the frame. Does anyone have a clue where I should look at next or possible causes of my sudden low sound?it has appeared seemly out of no where and nothing looks/ feels wrong or wore out.
Almost sounds like a suspension problem where the extra weight might be causing the down pipe or exhaust system to rub against something. The feeling in the seat and floor board buzz thing is a typical symptom so don't overlook that. I'm no expert on the 2000 models but been there a few time on the OBS rigs.
 
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Old 02-17-2019, 02:17 PM
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I kinda doubt the 50lbs I added from the brackets is causing my issues.. The snow plow is sitting in storage at the moment, driving down the road I get the vibration/ growl at and above 55mph.
 
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Old 02-17-2019, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Eaglescout94 View Post
With the hubs locked and the noise goes away what would this point to?
It could point to something in the drive line, like a u-joint, being worn and loose until you put a load on it.
 
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Old 02-17-2019, 03:05 PM
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Well the test drive didnt even get to 55. Backing out of the driveway it didnt like it with the wheels turned to around full lock and in the 100 yards to the main road it made a similar grinding noise as when in 2wd at 55 and up. Never got to 20mph I think, turned the selector back to 2wd and no bad noises or issues steering to get back home. Looks like ill be pulling the front shaft from the truck and putting all new u joints in it. Is the Spicer 5-178x the joint I need?
 
  #13  
Old 02-27-2019, 11:43 PM
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Just to get everyone informed, i changed out the front u joints. There were almost no needles left in the Cardan joint stem ball. I ended up replacing both front hubs, i was able to test the passenger side on my daily drive and it was bad. Ill be plowing with the truck this coming winter so now ive got hubs with a warranty, well see how they hold up. I got the rear shaft u joints and carrier bearing several days after the front and got them installed tonight. It wasn’t until i had almost everything apart that i could see clear as day the joint at the rear end was bad without a doubt. The grease in the others all smelled bad too so they probably weren’t far out. The drive home proved quiet and hopefully trouble free for a long time. Even after its all done and fixed i have one question, What size are the “8mm” bolts actually? They’re stamped metric but 8mm doesnt fit well and neither does 5/16”. If i would have thought it out front the start I’d have heated them all up then tried but ended up having to cut/grind 4 of the 8 for everything.
 
 


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