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LiPo batteries in a camper? Not LiIon? I would be deathly afraid of having such highly volatile batteries as LiPo's in a camper.
Lithium ion batteries are the problem child.
LiFEPO4’s are lithium iron phosphate.
The consumer market of LiFEPO4’s is growing, especially in the RV and marine world.
The current consumer ready (eg not a Tesla conversion) batteries have built in battery management protecting the batteries from over charging, and cold weather damage. Some even have built in Bluetooth.
I have 6 100AH BattleBorn batteries in the front closet of my 5th wheel. Clean, no off gassing, lightweight (29 pounds each) and 100% of the 600 amps available.
LiFEPO4’s can be run down to 10-20% SOC with no damage and all the way to 0% with minimal loss of usable life. Usable life is rated st 3000-5000 cycles, 10-15 years.
They do come at a price though. $900+ per battery.
BTW, several brands are now coming with 10 year warranties.
My 2019 Superduty with dual alternators is rated at 377 amps but how much of that is for continuous use? I am installing 1/0 cable direct to two LiPo batteries in my slide in camper so they should suck over 100 amps for 15 minutes and then somewhat less for another 15 minutes. Truck delivery is in 2 weeks so I can't measure directly yet. Any ideas on continuous rating? I would have guessed 80% but someone suggested more like 50% would be realistic. I prefer to plan for my loads now.
OP this may help you in your design - credit Ford service info applies to 2019 for certain: Dual Generators
Vehicles with the 6.7L Power Stroke engine may have dual generators. In dual generator systems, the PCM keeps the secondary generator in a standby state where it does not generate current unless the primary generator is generating full power and more current is needed to support the vehicle loads. The PCM monitors the output of the primary generator and adjusts the control setpoint of the secondary generator to cause it to provide additional current when needed.
Lots of speculation here — I’ll share my actual experience.
If you run a 1/0 you can pull 200A+ all day. I have a 1/0 run to my bed, with a quick disconnect and 1/0 jumper to my slide in camper batteries. I have a 500a solenoid (triggered from an upfitter) to control the line (which also has plugs for remote jumper cables) and a 2500w (5000 surge) inverter running off two house batteries (supplies and supplemented by the truck alternator and batteries when the supply solenoid is shut). The inverter is wired to power the entire AC load of the camper.
When I start the truck, I have a 10 second timer wired to the 500A solenoid, so if I leave the upfitter in the “on” position, 10 seconds after starting the truck, I have full alternator power to the camper. This works with remote start as well.
I leave the inverter “on” in the camper all the time when traveling. I wired it with a 30A automatic transfer switch with shore power so when I plug in at night (if we have hookups) it auto switches over. If we are boondocking, I turn the inverter off once we are setup.
I run the fridge in AC mode all the time off the inverter (truck alternator) unless boondocking. In the winter months I have a plug in heater I run while going down the road to keep the dogs (and tanks) warm. (No propane use too). In the summer I run the roof A/C until at full blast going down the road. In the morning if boondocking, I remote start the truck and can run the microwave (or A/C) from the alternator. We had one ridiculously hot night boondocking where I let the truck idle for about 4 hours with A/C blasting in the camper until it cooled off enough outside to shut it down and open windows. The truck is so quiet at idle (17 F450 6.7) that I’m not worried about idle noise and you can’t really hear it past 30 ft away.
When running the A/C and fridge, the 2500w inverter is near maxed out, supplying about 20A AC at 120V, which pulls about 220-240A DC (assuming 10% inverter losses). I have started the truck in the early morning at a campsite and turned the truck off 14 hours and three fuel stops later with the A/C running the entire time keeping the dogs cool. It does this all day every day when we are out and never blinks. My truck reads 14.4-14.7 volts with both the A/C and fridge running. I don’t carry a generator (or have one in my camper) because I simply don’t need it. The truck alternator can supply as much power as a 3kw generator (and still run the truck)
Many next camper (or electrical rebuild) will get a 4000w inverter and even heavier cables, which should allow A/C, microwave (which is a short duration high current load), and fridge all at the same time.
So, in short, YES, my dual alts run over 200A load (plus actual truck draw) all day every day even in 100+ deg heat.
I would like to discuss this with you further and possibly implement the same setup.
I have an 2021 F350, 6.7L with Dual Alternators 397A.
Travel trailer has Inverter on board, so I could be doing the same thing you've been doing.
I had thought about putting a DC/DC converter in the trailer for charging as it limits the amount of draw to the LiFePo's.
My 2019 Superduty with dual alternators is rated at 377 amps but how much of that is for continuous use? I am installing 1/0 cable direct to two LiPo batteries in my slide in camper so they should suck over 100 amps for 15 minutes and then somewhat less for another 15 minutes. Truck delivery is in 2 weeks so I can't measure directly yet. Any ideas on continuous rating? I would have guessed 80% but someone suggested more like 50% would be realistic. I prefer to plan for my loads now.
You're going to want a DC to DC converter from a company like victron or renogy between the alternator and the batteries so you don't damage them. If you're considering adding solar to the mix Renogy makes a great DC to DC converter / MPPT charge controller. Look up Will prowse on YouTube for a wealth of information.
You're going to want a DC to DC converter from a company like victron or renogy between the alternator and the batteries so you don't damage them. If you're considering adding solar to the mix Renogy makes a great DC to DC converter / MPPT charge controller. Look up Will prowse on YouTube for a wealth of information.
I'm over on the DIYSolarForum.com where you are also a member. I'm not a fan of the Renogy DC-DC chargers, specifically the ones that allow solar and alternator input. The maximum voltage on the solar side of that unit is very limiting. As I recall, the maximum is 25v.
I'm over on the DIYSolarForum.com where you are also a member. I'm not a fan of the Renogy DC-DC chargers, specifically the ones that allow solar and alternator input. The maximum voltage on the solar side of that unit is very limiting. As I recall, the maximum is 25v.
Hey I thought I recognized you're username! It is limited to 25 volts you are right, but I think it's benefit is that it's a super simple all in one solution for inexperienced people. Your comments on the other forum steered me away from alternator charging though. I decided to just go with the classic system and get a victron multiplus right first go, that way I don't end up replacing components down the line.
It sure doesn't take much to exceed 25 volts from a solar panel. I would kick myself if I went to upgrade my solar panels and realized that a new charge controller was required.
It sure doesn't take much to exceed 25 volts from a solar panel. I would kick myself if I went to upgrade my solar panels and realized that a new charge controller was required.
How many watts if panels would that be? Like 200 or not even?
How many watts if panels would that be? Like 200 or not even?
150 to 200 watts is about it. The danger comes in the winter when the volts shoot up due to the cold. The fudge factor generally used there is 1.2 I believe. So if the panel is rated for 22 volts nominal, 22 x 1.2 would put it over at 26.4. Exceeding volts is a good way to fry a cheap solar charge controller.
The actual fudge factor is specific to each solar panel and requires using the temperature coefficient rating of the panel. See this write up for more info:
The Victron solar charge controller calculator takes into account the temperature coefficient and the min temp you provide to tell you if their controller is a good fit for your panels.
Here's an example of voltage correction at various temperatures.
Here is the heavy duty solenoid, battery connection, and feeds to front and rear quick disconnects/remote jumper cables. Front QD pictured. Rear is same type plug, mounted in the bed high on the sidewall above and forward of the 5th wheel plug.
Yes, I should have a fuse or ckt breaker close to the battery. It’s on my mod list.
I am about to run 2 AWG from the battery of my F450 to a Victron Buck Boost in the cab. It'll pull 100A from the truck battery (+alternator) and then convert to ~50A @ 24v for my 24v systems in both my truck camper and fifth wheel. I'd like to keep the Buck Boost inside the cab for waterproofing. Did you run the cables into the cabin at all or just underneath the truck to the rear? I have never run a cable through the firewall so any tips appreciated.
02-22-2019, 07:02 AM
