When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I recently picked up an 2004 F150 with 5.4 3v and did some updates before using truck but now have some codes I can’t figure out.
I replaced cam-phasers, can position actuators, and timing kit
Symptom of truck is:
Rough idle after truck is at operating temp.
Codes are as follows:
P0010 - Intake Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit /.
Open (Bank 1)
P2197 - O2 Sensor Signal Biased / Stuck Lean -
Bank 2 / Sensor 1
P2270 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean -
Bank 1 / Sensor 2
Cecked:
the vacuum line on back on intake - good condition
and is serviceable.
The intake bolts - one front bolt broke off, possible
issue
Could it be leak in intake gasket?
thanks.
Update:
I pulled off intake manitfold and replaced the broken bolt so there should be no leaks in there.
I put on about 600 miles on the truck and have noticed two issues
1. When truck is in overdrive and at 1,200-1,400 RPMs there is a lerching feeling.
This makes me suspect I've got a bad Coil Pack somewhere.
2. After the truck has warmed up to operating temp it starts to rough idle, corrects itself and then goes back to rough idle.
What I then tested:
a. I hooked up the computer "ScanXL with the Ford enhancment " and noticed the following:
Fuel Trims:
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 = 4.75%
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 = 25.8%
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 = -1.6%
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 = 53.1%
Oxygen Sensors:
Oxygen sensor voltage Bank 1 - Sensor 1 0.165 volts
Oxygen sensor voltage Bank 1 - Sensor 2 0.000 volts
Oxygen sensor voltage Bank 2 - Sensor 1 0.240 volts
Oxygen sensor voltage Bank 2 - Sensor 2 0.875 volts
Oxygen Sensor Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 - Sensor 1 0.80%
Oxygen Sensor Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 - Sensor 2 99.20%
Oxygen Sensor Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 - Sensor 1 52.10%
Oxygen Sensor Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 - Sensor 2 99.20%
Posible Solutions:
1. Replace Ignition Coil Pack
2. Replace spark plug
I'll probably do both
Last edited by TF309; 03-01-2019 at 11:27 AM.
Reason: New information found
all of your O2 codes might be related to pinched or bad wire harness under the truck leading to the O2 sensors. ...... assuming you don't have multiple O2 sensor failures.
P0174 could be a leak on the intake, or other vacuum hose.
then look at the P0010 camshaft position sensor.. that can make it run rough.
So its saying po0010 vct circuit open bank 1 pass side- thats an elaborate solenoid
Its either broken wire or your new VCT is bad/clean all connectors . The lean codes both banks could very well be a vacuum leak /intake gasket. O2 actually meas oxygen content not fuel ,you have too much 02 and it can't adjust it out either .Too much 02 means not enough fuel coming in to burn up 02. It can only try to lengthen injector pulse so much to add more fuel if that doesn't work it goes into open loop .Also clean your maf . Might as well clean throttle body when its off . only use the specific cleaners .
Closed loop means it has control and it is constantly adjusting and responding to pcm signals to keep air fuel ratio on target .Look at your short term and long term fuel trims .
A smoke test can tell you ,you can build a cheap one from youtube or use a propane torch unlit around intake . .O2 connectors must be clean so air can get into sensor for it to compare no mud /oil /grease . No dielectric grease, there is an air tube in the wire.
You may have blown fuse on o2 heaters ,that makes them hard to warm up quickly . Wires by manifold maybe burn't ,hand follow and check fuses .I would fix o2 heaters/wiring first .
You say you did timing job but did you use oem? Aftermarket phasers are complete junk some fail immediately . You may have to move vcts to see if symptom moves sides or try to ohm them out to compare . Yes that gasket is a bear .
Cheap stuff sounds good but its a headache .
In the end o2 sensors do age and should be replaced after 100k but wires must protected from exhaust temps . Fasten out of the way . Theres lots of videos on fuel trims ,its takes awhile to get your head around it .Ford tech makuloco is one of the best on you tube
That's all for now folks !
Lots of good info.
I will start digging into the problems shortly.
It does make it easier to troubleshoot knowing that some of the issues maybe unrelated to one another.
Yes I did end up with CARDONE SELECT variable valve timing sprockets as I had not seen the YouTube videos from Makuloco until after the install.
The O2 issue could be issues for sure. After looking over the exhaust manifold I have seen the bank 1 upper O2 sensor connector is melted together as it was dangling on the exhaust system.
Common area for failure, after you change connector make sure o2 heater fuse good , It brings up o2 for faster response ,it must be very hot to work . Code reader can tell you if it goes into closed loop , which means it oscillates up and down on each side of perfect point as pcm changes things-- shortens and lengthens fuel pulses . All injectors are a little different and it only controls them in a group . There is no individual control of each injector on this engine .
The long term fuel trim slowly becomes better as the short term trys to correct it over time .As the long term comes to a reasonable number the engine will smooth out and stay in closed loop .If it jumps into open loop the pcm has given up on trying to correct it, its out of range -needs fixed .
Computer keeps long term in keep alive memory it does not keep short term . So on a restart it uses the current long term settings in memory . But its kinda like a jet plane that loses its speed sensors-- not good-- stall .
I pulled off intake manitfold and replaced the broken bolt so there should be no leaks in there.
I put on about 600 miles on the truck and have noticed two issues
1. When truck is in overdrive and at 1,200-1,400 RPMs there is a lerching feeling.
This makes me suspect I've got a bad Coil Pack somewhere.
2. After the truck has warmed up to operating temp it starts to rough idle, corrects itself and then goes back to rough idle.
What I then tested:
a. I hooked up the computer "ScanXL with the Ford enhancment " and noticed the following:
Fuel Trims:
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 = 4.75%
Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 = 25.8%
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 = -1.6%
Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 = 53.1%
Oxygen Sensors:
Oxygen sensor voltage Bank 1 - Sensor 1 0.165 volts
Oxygen sensor voltage Bank 1 - Sensor 2 0.000 volts
Oxygen sensor voltage Bank 2 - Sensor 1 0.240 volts
Oxygen sensor voltage Bank 2 - Sensor 2 0.875 volts
Oxygen Sensor Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 - Sensor 1 0.80%
Oxygen Sensor Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1 - Sensor 2 99.20%
Oxygen Sensor Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 - Sensor 1 52.10%
Oxygen Sensor Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2 - Sensor 2 99.20%
Posible Solutions:
1. Replace Ignition Coil Pack
2. Replace spark plug
I'll probably do both
Fuel trims are way out there , clean maf for sure . Smoke test vac system . Your o2 heater fuse may be blown . You need to look at fuel trims at different rpms low- med-high . A broken bolt on intake suggests that someones been in there and scewed it up .I am learning fuel trims, someone better may give you some answers
Put your year , engine size ,mileage in your signature so we can see what you are working on . O2 sensor volts are supposed to be around .5 when in good state ,closed loop etc yours are asking for a lot more fuel to be added , meaning too much o2 detected . These are the worst I have seen . Too much o2 looks like a big vacuum leak .
If this is a 5.4 you need to check out intake runner linkage and wires routing can jam intake runner linkage .
Ok so I
Installed a new O2 sensor on Bank 2 Sensor 1
Connected O2 sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2, (yep, it was disconnected!)
Put Seafoam fuel treatment in fuel.
So your cam is not where its supposed to be on passenger side bank one .But why , is the vct dirty . Do you have a lot of sludge . Is the phaser deformed .is it a new oem . Did your fuel trims get better .
So your cam is not where its supposed to be on passenger side bank one .But why , is the vct dirty . Do you have a lot of sludge . Is the phaser deformed .is it a new oem . Did your fuel trims get better .
i am not sure why it’s off. I fixed the issue with the bank 2 being lean. I had the truck all warmed up, took it for a drive and had no codes for camphaser or O2 codes. I figured I’d give it a fresh oil change and since the engine was cold by the time I got the oil back in to it I took it for a drive and the camphaser code came back.
It is a new VCT and solenoid but it is made by Cardone so maybe that’s why it has failed but I still need to check resistance.
Anyone know off the top of there head what it should read?
Anyone know the pin out from bank one solenoid to computer?
Thanks.
The ohmage of the vct does nothing to speak of its oil flow control . Its a rough coil check , The dirty oil has to flow thru the small passages and screens to hydraulically move cam . So clean oil is key ,no sludge or blockages . Then there are the phasers receiving the oil ,need less to say it got to be a quality item to move so much and often . Some aftermarket die very shortly ,some are bad out of the box very-very common . It only has to be off position a small percentage to fail sensor .
There are things you can physically look at on phaser to see if its obviously bad . Bump it around until you can see middle finger on the three it should line up exactly with the mark behind it ,the spring should not be contorted ,the face should be parallel to the back . Fingers should not be bent back towards motor.
Flush this oil system to try to get oil flow correct ,several oil changes later .
You can also clean sensor and connector or swap it to the other side .How is your oil pressure with mech gauge .
The ohmage of the vct does nothing to speak of its oil flow control . Its a rough coil check , The dirty oil has to flow thru the small passages and screens to hydraulically move cam . So clean oil is key ,no sludge or blockages . Then there are the phasers receiving the oil ,need less to say it got to be a quality item to move so much and often . Some aftermarket die very shortly ,some are bad out of the box very-very common . It only has to be off position a small percentage to fail sensor .
There are things you can physically look at on phaser to see if its obviously bad . Bump it around until you can see middle finger on the three it should line up exactly with the mark behind it ,the spring should not be contorted ,the face should be parallel to the back . Fingers should not be bent back towards motor.
Flush this oil system to try to get oil flow correct ,several oil changes later .
You can also clean sensor and connector or swap it to the other side .How is your oil pressure with mech gauge .
Got it.
It turns out the VVT solenoid had a bent pin. I assume I bent it over when I was installing it.
I've done some driving, cold starts and warm starts and no codes. It would make sense why I had the code.
One last problem! The one remaining issue is the shudder between 40-55mph.
I'll change the coilpacks and spark plugs. Hope is that this will be the fix.
I guess all these different issue have got me pretty familiar with this truck!
mode six will tell you where the raw computer counts are building
On torque pro it will tell you under test results per cyl . The misfire counts are determined by whether the crank gets a push when it should on that cyl firing . It is not perfect its best to check each one on either side of firing order . But all boots/plugs should all be replaced ,hosp clean plug job ,all plugs torqued in 25 to 28 foot pounds not by feel . Boots only need a pinhole or be contaminated with anti freeze ,oil ,heat ,age etc . This engine very fussy about plugs . Loose plugs will cause blowby on plug and it will burn that plug slap up .Plus it can eject the whole mess with the final threads .Cops get corroded contacts clean them all . Oem cops rarely fail .
You should be able to reduce counts to zero if all is well .60k is the limit on plugs and boots . Misfires ruin cats fix them quickly .O2 age and have to be replaced after a lot of miles . Keep your throttle body and maf clean . Long time trim tries to make up for engine wear . But there is a point that you have to put new injectors in her not remans and it should be done in sets .The pcm is trying its best to adjust fuel trims per bank but not by injector so that's why it needs same in a set . It sets pulse with by a whole bank at a time .
One last problem! The one remaining issue is the shudder between 40-55mph.
I'll change the coilpacks and spark plugs. Hope is that this will be the fix!
“Shudder” is kinda hard for me to imagine what you’re feeling.
As @redfishrd described, it might be a misfire.
But at that mph is when the torque converter typically locks up.
Now I didn’t see where you indicated the mileage on this vehicle,
but if it has dirty transmission fluid, that can cause the torque converter to “chatter” when it try’s to lock up.
Torque converter chatter usually last for less than 4 or 5 seconds,
where a misfire may be prolonged.
02-12-2019, 11:54 AM
