John

When I removed my Volare ears, I simply moved the metal up to meet the frame and welded it solid. I'm not sure where a fish plate would be needed. I practice the No Limit Volare faith. Sounds like a matter of different methods. Or perhaps my idea of a fish plate are not the same as yours. Anyway, mine has none by my definition.

Confusing you yet Erik? Sorry if I have. I can jack up my truck by the front bumper. I'm sure Bob's method is just fine too. It wouldn't hurt anything in any event. Both shops have done countless Volare clips.

 

Sorry but I wont be welding in the Volare until next fall. I save around 200 dollars a month for restoration and I think it will take this long to save up cause I dont weld myself.

 

fenders,

I understand I'll never be that cool... but it gives me a goal and I
need that to stay focused...

john

 

As one who has had 5 different types of front suspensons under various vehicles, just wanted to sa thanks for the interesting comments.
I have a Volare under my panel; just as mentioned, it does not handle first class, but the height adjustment is sure neat.

Paul

 

Hi guys. I have been reading the posts on the volare swap. Have a ? I put one in my 56 last winter. I see where they say you need to have 4-5 degrees on the clip. How and where do you check this. On the clip with truck frame level Or??? Thanks for any help. Im worried may not have enough. If not is there a way of adjusting the castor with out cutting everything back apart? RRR

 

RRR

Don't panic just yet. You do have some shimming capability at the alignment shop. The final caster adjustment does not have to be a full 4-5 degrees positive. Nor does the initial install IMO. I have talked to a few others who are driving their trucks and are not that far positive on the initial install. The whole point is for the truck to be alignable to specs. If you have negative caster you are in trouble with near certainty. I don't know of a simple way to verify without heading to the alignment shop. Here is how you can do it if thats not possible now:

Put the truck on stands and level the frame. You have to swing the upper control arm out away from the frame. No balljoint separating and such is necessary. Remove the upper control arm at the top (two vertical bolts) where the alignment shims go. Remove the plate under the control arm. (I think plate is in the way, but maybe not) 4 big bolts as I recall. You now have the Volare upper tower that is taller than the F100 frame. It is flat on top. Clean it up and place an angle gauge there and you should be tilted back at least a couple degrees.

Make sense? Yell if not and I'll try again.

 

Fenders Will check this week. Thanks and Merry X-MAS RRR

 

RRR,

Ditto what 'fenders said except if you do wind up with negative caster, try driving it before you go to all the trouble to tear it out and start over. I remember running about two degrees negative caster on a Mustang suspension years ago and the car drove surprisingly well. I expected it to dart from side to side when hitting the brakes, but that never materialized. I'm certainly not recommending negative caster, but in some instances I think you may be able to live with it. I also had a 32 Ford with a Mustang II that ran 12 degrees positive caster. It was a bear to park, but practically drove itself down the interstate, so caster is not as big a deal as some make it out to be.

 

"so caster is not as big a deal as some make it out to be."

Vern

It's completely dependent upon what suspension design is being discussed. That's why there are no "canned" fitzall alignment spec charts for all cars. But I do get your point.

Chrysler T-bar is one of those suspensions more sensitive to negative caster so I'm going to preach it every time the opportunity arises. I hate to see someone go to all the trouble of any IFS install and then it's a bad install. Or worse yet an unsafe one. Too much negative caster can make a truck less safe to drive on wet or icey roads IMO.

I won't lie, there's one more reason. After someone botches their Volare install, they'll be right back here publicly stating they don't handle worth a damn. Same thing for running your T-bars too loose. If you compromise the geometry, you'll pay the price. Too many good Volare trucks are on the street. You should have a good ride and decent handling. If your truck is all over the road, it's the installers fault. Period. Putting away my soapbox now.

 

'fenders,

This being my first Chrysler T-bar suspension, I'll take your word for it on it being more sensitive to negative caster. Fortunately, I had the advantage of the No-Limit video and great advice from this forum to install mine, so I was very careful to get the full 4 degrees of tilt. I think though that if I had to cut the suspension out to correct it, I'd be tempted to just give up and start over on another truck. Not that RRR should do that because cutting it out and starting over might not be a big deal to him. It would be a big deal to me however.

 

Have another? I have the drive train(460,c-6 & 9in floater w/disc.) done except hooking up the steering column. I notice when I have the engine running the power steering pump(fluid) gets pretty hot(160) fairly fast(10min.). It has new hoses and installed a new pump and still does it do these chrysler boxs run hot? It,s not making any funny noises and seems to turn easy. I installed a cooler but dont think it helps unless its moving. RRR

 

RRR

I believe I am experiencing the same PS thing. No damage yet, and it doesn't get real hot. But I will probably buy the pressure regulator that Heidts sells at some point. At the very least I will add an oversized PS cooler this winter. Can you steer the truck with your pinky? I can and I believe that is further evidence the pump is working a little too good.

That said, a lot of Volare guys have run for years with no PS problems using non Mopar pumps. Scott from this forum has not been so fortunate though. I think we are overly sensitive to some issues. Perhaps this is one of those things that really isn't broken. A few more of us on the road and monitoring it and we'll have a better answer.

If you check PS hoses on other cars, you will find that a lot of cars do run pretty warm even with unaltered OEM setups.

Agree Vern,

I did have to follow up a bad install with a fresh one. No fun at all.

 

Whew!Pulled the A-arm off the pad and checked looks like I have 3degrees to the back.OK? I guess if I ever get this thing done will watch the pump and steering box just seems like it gets pretty hot. Thanks guys HO! HO! HO!and MERRY X-MAS Bob

 

Bob,

Great news. I think 3 degress will work okay.

 

Ok Fenders. I will bring a case of beer and you bring the movie and we will do my truck in a few weeks. Go down to the local salvage and get me a front end man, what you waiten for.