2003 Excursion Crank No Start...everything seems to check out fine
#31
02-09-2019, 12:26 PM
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Yes
A wire could look fine on the outside but be shorted out inside
The randomness of these events IV highlighted in bold suggests short circuit events
do you have a dvom
Wire issue can be a test of patience especially if not used to using one
You need a better scanner because the truck should have thrown DTC for some of these sensors that have been unplugged since they are emission control and continuously monitored and would need to complete a proper drive cycle without error or be erased from pcm for DTC to go away
A wire could look fine on the outside but be shorted out inside
The randomness of these events IV highlighted in bold suggests short circuit events
do you have a dvom
Wire issue can be a test of patience especially if not used to using one
You need a better scanner because the truck should have thrown DTC for some of these sensors that have been unplugged since they are emission control and continuously monitored and would need to complete a proper drive cycle without error or be erased from pcm for DTC to go away
Ive been scouring the wire loom...wouldn’t I have some codes if there was a bad wire? I do have codes for the egr being unplugged and deleted. There is a code for the ignition key and a code for the brake switch. Would it be beneficial to try a new ignition switch?
When I try to crank it over with brake clean I’ll do it in the engine bay with the starter wire on the battery and ignition in the on position Incase turning the key to start is an ignition issue.
#32
02-09-2019, 12:47 PM
Intermittent problems are difficult to say the least. We have one set of data to look at, and that is what was posted. If that isn't consistent, then we would hope some codes would show up. Personally I would lean towards an injector shorting out or something similar, but without the code(s) it is only a guess.
Also, we can't hear the crank, so it is hard to know if it is a normal crank or if it is an inconsistent crank. I am guessing it would have been mentioned if the crank was uneven or if it sounded unusual.
Can you confirm that the summary below is accurate?
From what you have posted, cam/crank is in sync, FICM is in sync, FICM is sending a fuel pulse width signal, fuel fills the bowl and has 55 psig pressure. Also, that sufficient high pressure oil pressure is being developed (even if it is with a high IPR duty cycle), the cranking rpms are sufficient, and vehicle/FICM voltages are good. With the garage temperature what it is and with the block heater on, you shouldn't need glow plugs. Lastly, a known good FICM doesn't change anything, and there are no bubbles in the fuel (either when filling the secondary fuel filter bowl or when cranking with a full fuel filter bowl). Oh, and the EGR is deleted, and the intake and exhaust pathways are clear.
Also, we can't hear the crank, so it is hard to know if it is a normal crank or if it is an inconsistent crank. I am guessing it would have been mentioned if the crank was uneven or if it sounded unusual.
Can you confirm that the summary below is accurate?
From what you have posted, cam/crank is in sync, FICM is in sync, FICM is sending a fuel pulse width signal, fuel fills the bowl and has 55 psig pressure. Also, that sufficient high pressure oil pressure is being developed (even if it is with a high IPR duty cycle), the cranking rpms are sufficient, and vehicle/FICM voltages are good. With the garage temperature what it is and with the block heater on, you shouldn't need glow plugs. Lastly, a known good FICM doesn't change anything, and there are no bubbles in the fuel (either when filling the secondary fuel filter bowl or when cranking with a full fuel filter bowl). Oh, and the EGR is deleted, and the intake and exhaust pathways are clear.
#33
02-09-2019, 12:58 PM
As far as RAE injectors, I really haven't heard of them. IMO I would only get injectors from Ford or from a source that sold the new Pure Power injectors. I do know that no injector rebuild shop is perfect (Ford or aftermarket).
I did find this thread (see post #3):
https://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...ectors.323617/
I did find this thread (see post #3):
https://www.thetruckersreport.com/tr...ectors.323617/
#34
02-09-2019, 01:29 PM
I'm a little late to the party but 200 to 300 RPMs cranking speed does sound a little on the high end of the normal spectrum, leading me to wonder if this engine is a little low on compression.
Attempting to start the engine with Brake Parts cleaner will definitely tell you if you're low on compression, as well as tell if you have faulty injector(s).
If the above diagnosis leads to faulty injector(s), a good serving suggestion to pinpoint the culprit(s) would be to crank the engine over with all glow plugs removed, and observe which holes are misting fuel and which ones aren't (the faulty ones).
Attempting to start the engine with Brake Parts cleaner will definitely tell you if you're low on compression, as well as tell if you have faulty injector(s).
If the above diagnosis leads to faulty injector(s), a good serving suggestion to pinpoint the culprit(s) would be to crank the engine over with all glow plugs removed, and observe which holes are misting fuel and which ones aren't (the faulty ones).
#35
02-09-2019, 02:19 PM
#36
02-09-2019, 03:49 PM
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Intermittent problems are difficult to say the least. We have one set of data to look at, and that is what was posted. If that isn't consistent, then we would hope some codes would show up. Personally I would lean towards an injector shorting out or something similar, but without the code(s) it is only a guess.
Also, we can't hear the crank, so it is hard to know if it is a normal crank or if it is an inconsistent crank. I am guessing it would have been mentioned if the crank was uneven or if it sounded unusual.
Can you confirm that the summary below is accurate?
From what you have posted, cam/crank is in sync, FICM is in sync, FICM is sending a fuel pulse width signal, fuel fills the bowl and has 55 psig pressure. Also, that sufficient high pressure oil pressure is being developed (even if it is with a high IPR duty cycle), the cranking rpms are sufficient, and vehicle/FICM voltages are good. With the garage temperature what it is and with the block heater on, you shouldn't need glow plugs. Lastly, a known good FICM doesn't change anything, and there are no bubbles in the fuel (either when filling the secondary fuel filter bowl or when cranking with a full fuel filter bowl). Oh, and the EGR is deleted, and the intake and exhaust pathways are clear.
Also, we can't hear the crank, so it is hard to know if it is a normal crank or if it is an inconsistent crank. I am guessing it would have been mentioned if the crank was uneven or if it sounded unusual.
Can you confirm that the summary below is accurate?
From what you have posted, cam/crank is in sync, FICM is in sync, FICM is sending a fuel pulse width signal, fuel fills the bowl and has 55 psig pressure. Also, that sufficient high pressure oil pressure is being developed (even if it is with a high IPR duty cycle), the cranking rpms are sufficient, and vehicle/FICM voltages are good. With the garage temperature what it is and with the block heater on, you shouldn't need glow plugs. Lastly, a known good FICM doesn't change anything, and there are no bubbles in the fuel (either when filling the secondary fuel filter bowl or when cranking with a full fuel filter bowl). Oh, and the EGR is deleted, and the intake and exhaust pathways are clear.
#38
02-09-2019, 03:54 PM
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I'm a little late to the party but 200 to 300 RPMs cranking speed does sound a little on the high end of the normal spectrum, leading me to wonder if this engine is a little low on compression.
Attempting to start the engine with Brake Parts cleaner will definitely tell you if you're low on compression, as well as tell if you have faulty injector(s).
If the above diagnosis leads to faulty injector(s), a good serving suggestion to pinpoint the culprit(s) would be to crank the engine over with all glow plugs removed, and observe which holes are misting fuel and which ones aren't (the faulty ones).
Attempting to start the engine with Brake Parts cleaner will definitely tell you if you're low on compression, as well as tell if you have faulty injector(s).
If the above diagnosis leads to faulty injector(s), a good serving suggestion to pinpoint the culprit(s) would be to crank the engine over with all glow plugs removed, and observe which holes are misting fuel and which ones aren't (the faulty ones).
#40
02-09-2019, 04:03 PM
#41
02-09-2019, 04:40 PM
#42
02-09-2019, 04:46 PM
#43
02-09-2019, 04:48 PM
#44
02-09-2019, 08:15 PM
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I’m assuming I did an electrical test with the scanner and passed? I have the normal key on clatter and hear each injector make noise during the injector test. In the past I’ve had codes for just sticking injectors so yes it’s odd there are no codes...going for a brake clean compression test tomorrow.
#45
02-09-2019, 09:39 PM
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