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Replacing valve body with JW. HD4R100. Stripped drain plug so had to make a mess with removing pan bolts. Pulled filter off, fell in drain pan. Took bolts out of VB, slipped and landed in drain pan. Then I noticed small cylindrical screen filter, about diameter of main filter tube that goes into tranny, about 1-2" long, black plastic. This is first time I have had trans pan off since installing trans a few years ago. Riff Raff guy doesn't recognize it, I will try to post picture in a few minutes.
That screen goes in a hole under the front valve body (that's not what's it's actually called, but I can never remember the names for them). When you look up at the separator plate, you'll see a larger hole with 2 notches in it. Push the screen up into that and twist it 90 degrees to get it to stay. There will be a small lip of the screen that will stick out, but everything else goes up into the plate.
The hole is on the passenger side.
Last edited by U9000; Feb 8, 2019 at 09:21 AM.
Reason: adding location
U9000, something you have seen before? Sorry, having issues posting picture. Makes sense, the truck pan was out of the way, and I only noticed the screen after the valve body had slipped and fallen into the drain pan I was using. Crap. I had to put it back together last night, it drives, so will wait until it gets warmer. Single digits right now and big POS won't fit in garage and let door close. I wanted to check the feed bolts but of course they are under the other valve body.
Why do I do this??
Yes, as I've had mine apart now 4 times in the last 2 mos. If you google "4R100 screen" and look at the images, you'll see it's the exact thing you're talking about.
GD Google!! What a concept. Thanks, that is it, aka solenoid screen. In all my freaking out last night never occurred something that is my go to for most stuff. I am guessing it will live without it a few more days.
Like I mentioned, it is COLD in northern Colorado. I still am curious about the feed bolt thing, might be causing a weird issue, so pan will come off soon anyway.
Reps to you.
If you've got the front body off, you're almost to the feed bolts. Pull the solenoid pack, the other body and the separator plate off and the bolts are staring you in the face. Just pay attention when dropping the separator plate, you've got 8 phenolic (hard rubber) and 1 steel check ***** that will be sitting on top of the plate as you lower it down. Above the steel ball is a small spring. The steel ball and spring are at the rear corner of the plate (driver's side, I'm pretty sure). If you're really careful, the check ***** can just sit in their respective divots while you set the plate aside and tighten the bolts. The spring, with a little Vaseline, will stay in place when you put the plate back up. But there are several different picture of check ball locations out there with a little google fu. Once you look at the bottom of the passages in the transmission, there's really only a few places the ***** can go that make sense. The diagrams will eliminate any questions.
This just gets more freaking fun!!!! Dropped valve bodies, feed bolts are tight. Really fun part, manual I have, plus a couple of other sources, say put the eight ***** back, plus the steel one with a spring. I have NINE of the "rubber" *****. Just in case someone has a quick easy answer, please! In the meantime I am searching for other sources. Maybe because this is a Motorcraft reman, HD4R100??
Need to go buy some cheese for my "whine". Why me? So, found some diagrams for earlier model 4R100, around '95, which show 9 plastic *****, plus one steel w/spring. Since I bought this from a Ford dealer in Houston and installed myself, in 2012, all I can say is WTF? Oregon Performance trans sent me a similar diagram (using their manual), they are just as confused because this trans should only have 8. Their thinking someone was in there before, but like I said, No way.
Passed the around the block a couple of times test, will drive more in a bit.
Back to the original issue, truck "loaded up" on me just coming to a stop last week, after an hour long drive. Like the torque converter staying locked up, almost died. Fluid level good this time, feed bolts good, guess line pressure check next but what then except something internal?
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