63 F100... Need disc brake solutions with CV Sawp and Mustang IRS
#1
63 F100... Need disc brake solutions with CV Sawp and Mustang IRS
My 63 is currently underway on a ground-up resto-mod. Completed to date is the CV IFS swap. I want to use the disc brakes from it of course. On the back end, I am installing a 2015 Mustang IRS and, like the front, wish to use that disc brake setup that came with it. So here I am, reading and reading, trying to figure out my starting point. I will be buying all the other components new. I am sure I am not the only one doing this, but I have sifted through pretty good the threads and still need some guidance. What MC, BB, and prop valve would you guys recommend? Also I need to figure out how to get this all compatible with the brake pedal. Thanks!!
Oh yeah, it will have a 351W with a Tremec TKO600 in it.
Oh yeah, it will have a 351W with a Tremec TKO600 in it.
#2
I have found that Wilwood products are hard to beat. Talk to their service people and see what the recommend for your specific application. They do brakes every day.
As for the master cylinder I would choose one with the same bore diameter as the original CV master cylinder. An adjustable proportioning valve will let you tune the rear brakes as needed. The brake booster is often dictated by clearances. If you go with a smaller unit, 7" or 8", look for a dual diaphragm unit. Using the 351W there most likely wont be clearance issues and a larger booster should work fine.
Good luck.
As for the master cylinder I would choose one with the same bore diameter as the original CV master cylinder. An adjustable proportioning valve will let you tune the rear brakes as needed. The brake booster is often dictated by clearances. If you go with a smaller unit, 7" or 8", look for a dual diaphragm unit. Using the 351W there most likely wont be clearance issues and a larger booster should work fine.
Good luck.
#3
The best advice I have ever had was to match the master cylinder with the Front brakes.
The worst power booster I ever used was the small (7 or 8", memory fades) booster. Besides having near zero actual boost, it rusted solid in short order.
I would highly recommend using the whole pedal assembly from the front brake donor vehicle. Every time I have done that, I have been happy with the brakes.
Too, I would assemble and test before adding an adjustable proportioning valve. Less complications, and it may work well with fewer things to go wrong.
Cosmo
The worst power booster I ever used was the small (7 or 8", memory fades) booster. Besides having near zero actual boost, it rusted solid in short order.
I would highly recommend using the whole pedal assembly from the front brake donor vehicle. Every time I have done that, I have been happy with the brakes.
Too, I would assemble and test before adding an adjustable proportioning valve. Less complications, and it may work well with fewer things to go wrong.
Cosmo
#4
#5
Actually, you don't have to consider the rear brakes. Since they do less than 30% of the stopping (possibly as little as 20% in an unladen pickup), they're along for the ride and contribute little.
That's why I suggested assembly and testing BEFORE adding components, it may all work well together. Too, I have done this many times before, and what I said about being happy with factory components vs. a mix and match aftermarket grab bag stands. (I HAVE done aftermarket. I was NEVER happy).
If the rears grab a bit much, THEN add a proportioning valve.
Then, too, it's your truck, your money, and this advice WAS free.
Cosmo
That's why I suggested assembly and testing BEFORE adding components, it may all work well together. Too, I have done this many times before, and what I said about being happy with factory components vs. a mix and match aftermarket grab bag stands. (I HAVE done aftermarket. I was NEVER happy).
If the rears grab a bit much, THEN add a proportioning valve.
Then, too, it's your truck, your money, and this advice WAS free.
Cosmo
#6
How does that Mustang IRS compare with the later 90's T-Bird? I plan to install the latter in my '64 this summer and have researched to the point of semi-madness. I bought the Mustang Cobra hubs for it so the wheel bolt pattern will match the front (I have an Aerostar front end under it from my work on it in '02 - before the "cool" CV swap).
I had a 351 and small block C-6 in it until last Christmas when I chose to try to swap a 4.6 into it. Nothing fits now, (steering and oil are trying to mix. just like water and oil, they don't). So, I'm planning a CV front end swap along with the IRS.
As far as brakes go, I mixed and matched stock Ford stuff. Aerostar brake hardware up front, Stock '64 rear drums, a booster and master from an '81 F-100 and the stock '64 pedal. That combo worked ok, but I plan to lower the pedal a bit for greater comfort.
I had a 351 and small block C-6 in it until last Christmas when I chose to try to swap a 4.6 into it. Nothing fits now, (steering and oil are trying to mix. just like water and oil, they don't). So, I'm planning a CV front end swap along with the IRS.
As far as brakes go, I mixed and matched stock Ford stuff. Aerostar brake hardware up front, Stock '64 rear drums, a booster and master from an '81 F-100 and the stock '64 pedal. That combo worked ok, but I plan to lower the pedal a bit for greater comfort.
#7
I don't know how the T-Bird IRS fits. I do know the rotor to rotor width on the Mustang IRS is almost 68". so it will be pretty wide. I'm going to need some major positive offset wheels get a 10" wheel tucked up under there. I have not bought my wheels yet. Once I mock it up I will know what I have to play with. I also think I wouldn't be able to get anything wider than a 10" in the wheel well, but again, that's this weekend's project.
It's sounding like any dual booster and MC will probably work as long as the pedal assy. plays nice in the sandbox.
It's sounding like any dual booster and MC will probably work as long as the pedal assy. plays nice in the sandbox.
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