This all started January 2018 when I had #1 injector fuel oring fail and dump fuel in the cylinder. I was out in the desert of Oregon and had to have the truck towed to Ford. They told me I needed an injector, so they replaced it and that lasted 1 year. in December 2018 I had a hard start in cold weather which that was a FICM. I only had 22V on the 4th screw. I replaced with a Ford reman. In January 2019 about 3 weeks after the FICM replacement I had #1 injector fail again with the same failure (fuel oring damaged). This time I was in town and had the truck towed to my house. After discovering the same injector failed again I looked in the injector bore and found a copper washer that did not belong in there. The washer was the size of a pan plug washer. It was broke in two pieces. I got the small piece out but the other piece was too large and swaged in there. I knew it was risky to try and cut the washer in half with a chisel, but nothing else was working. Of course the chisel slipped off and contacted the head. I replaced the cylinder head (with factory reman) on that side and changed all the seals on the injectors, but replaced #5 since it was way different looking than the other ones. After I purged out the oil system the engine started and ran good. Truck started right up the next morning the best it ever has meaning it didn't crank very long before firing right up. Ran some errands (~20 miles) then went to a touch-less car wash to clean all the spilled oil, coolant and fuel off the bottom of the engine. Waited in line about 30 min before it was my turn the whole time engine was idling. This car was has the undercarriage wash as you enter. On the way home about 2 miles from home the truck started running rough. Luckily I was close and made it to my driveway. I left the engine running and immediately disconnected one injector at a time to see which injector was not working. The entire right side effected the way the engine ran. I moved to the drivers side and couldn't unhook #2 hard to access, so I moved to #4 and that didn't change the way the engine ran at all. I moved to #6 and 8 which made the engine run worse. Then the engine started to run rougher than it already was so I checked #6 again and it made no change. This made me believe that #4/6 were failing. I shut the engine off and now I cannot hear the injectors click on the left bank, but I can definitely hear them on the right side. I have checked continuity in all wires I can see on the schematic that deals with power, grounds and injectors on the FICM and the CAN between the PCM and FICM. All were ~0.9 ohms and battery voltage if it was a power circuit. All grounds and bonding straps have 2 ohms to either ground terminal of the batteries. At this time I had codes:

P0261 #1 circuit low
P0266 #2 contribution/balance
P0267 #3 circuit low
P0276 #6 circuit low
U0105 lost comms with FICM
U0306 SW incompatibility with FICM
P2552 FICM circuit - Throttle/Fuel inhibit circuit

I do have an EGR delete on this truck. All these codes are gone now. I did have trouble with battery voltage as I cranked the engine. Charged batts and took them and the alternator to O'Reillys and the batteries were bad, but the alternator tested good. I replaced the batteries yesterday (2/2/19).
I got a ScanGaugeII and this is what I have on engine crank:

FICM Main 47.5 V
FICM LP 10.5 V
ICP/HPOP 1530 psi
IPR% 49
RPM 195
CMP CKP SYNC = 0

I know the FICM LP is low but it is 40F outside and the Glow plugs are on. I have tried wiggling the wire harness for the cam sensor while cranking and there is no change. I have checked the continuity from the PCM to the CMP and they were 0.3 ohms even wiggling the harness. I have 366 ohms across the sensor at the PCM connector and the CKP was 824 ohms. I know that the resistance across the sensors isn't the best test, but from what I have read those sensors rarely go bad on an 05. I have been working with Scott at FICMRepair.com on this issue and he has been awesome to work with. I was about to buy the CMP and CKP from them, but wanted to run this past all ya'll here since you guys have been so helpful with others and their crank no start issues. Only code I have now is P1633 Keep alive power voltage too low.

I know this is a lot and I hope I have conveyed my problem accurately. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

EDIT ....

Since you have an rpm reading, I would NOT jump on the CKP sensor ..... it is probably ok.

It might be the cam sensor though.

 

 

No, my mistake, I mistyped and hit enter too quickly. I corrected my earlier post (left out the word "NOT").

Hopefully I corrected it quickly enough and you aren't out there changing the CKP as we speak!

The rpm comes from the crank sensor and I would NOT suspect it.

 

Have you verified that all the FICM plugs are firmly seated?

 

 

P2552 FICM circuit - Throttle/Fuel inhibit circuit usually comes from the middle plug not being seated.

If you think there still could be an issue, then yes, I would try to add the hose so you can get more pressure on the connector. Hopefully it will seat.

 

 

 

Might look this over.

CAMSHAFT SENSOR TROUBLESHOOT PDF:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...4&d=1350773182

 

 

You bet. Sorry for the confusion earlier!