I would still like to know about the oil level .........................

After injector problems you can have fuel in the oil and that can prevent sufficient low and/or high pressure oil pressure from being achieved. You can easily detect this as the oil level will be high. Maybe it is a low probability, but it is part of being thorough. I am not asking multiple times just to be annoying.

 

 

It sounded more promising when the low pressure oil was suspect, but it is still a good thing to keep an eye on, especially since it is easy.

Air pressure test next I guess? Do you have the fitting that goes in the IPR location or are you planning to close the IPR for the test?

 

Are you getting the RPM while cranking? I may of missed that info.

 

 

Good is relative what was the RPM number?

 

 

You should not be hearing that sound from the oil filler.
It's likely pointing to a leak.
I would pull the valve covers off, both of them, since the sound will migrate, and air test again.
The best method is the IPR port if you can.

 

 

Don't leave it powered too long or you will cook the coil.

 

I watched a video on air testing and he was saying to test it with the engine hot. I have no way to do this. When testing hot vs cold, are you mainly testing the dummy plugs and standpipes? If so, should I replace these even if I don't hear a leak cold. I see the upgraded ones sold on the internet. Is there a specific brand you guys recommend? I guess what baffles me, also, is I get no start cold or hot. After I pulled the screen out of the IPR port I looked in the port with my bore camera and it was clean. I will pull the valve covers off when I can and check for leaks. I just don't hear any air leaking at all. Just the faint gurgling from the filler neck. Probably want get to work on it today because we have mandatory overtime. Any one who has opinions or thoughts, feel free to post. Thanks a lot for you guys that are helping. I need all the help I can get before I start taking insanity pills.

 

To test for leaks with air, you need to push the oil out. That is easier to do w/ hot oil because of lower viscosity.

So the STC fitting was replaced, but the dummy plugs and standpipes have not been upgraded? That certainly might be, but most mechanics would suggest the dummy plugs and standpipes be also done when an STC fitting job was being done.

You shouldn't hear gurgling at all.

What you hear could be from a passenger dummy plug, or it is possible that the IPR is leaking through.

IMO, pull the valve covers and listen. If you don't want to do both sides, then pull the passenger side first because that is where you hear the faint gurgling.

Get OEM dummy plugs and standpipes. I wouldn't go cheap. If it were me, I would replace them all if they haven't been done yet. Look for 12MM hex heads on the dummy plugs. The updated plugs will have that head.

Plenty of reasonable places for parts. AutoNation White Bear Lake is good. Ed at FICMrepair.com is great, and he price matches.

 

Next time get to work on it I will pull valve covers and replace all dummy plugs and standpipes. I will also get the adapter to do the air test at the IPR port. I will keep you updated as I go. I did the STC fitting upgrade because it died on me when I took of from a stop sign. It was definitely bad when I pulled it out but at that time I didn't know about doing the other stuff.

 

The other reason for hot engine air testing if you could get it to run is thin oil also leaks bast things with more ease.
But if you can't get it to run then you just do cold. Just takes more time.You can use the block heater to warm it up some.

Take a look in the Tech Folder when you have the time to sit down and do a lot of reading. You will find so much info
about the 6.0L in there that is very handy to know. Also be sure to oil any O-ring going in. A nicked O-ring can fail
really easily.

The first injector I did I under torqued and ended up having to get a tow home. My smaller wrench did not have the capacity
to give he the torque I needed so I used my larger one to do the work. Because it is so long I had to use a long Torx bit
to get down in there. What happened was two things bit me in the butt. Using a large wrench at the low end of it's range
and the second thing was the long bit. The Torx bits in some of the kits are made from sintered metal and they twist a lot
and eat up the force going to the fastener. The best one I found to replace that one with was one of the Harbor Freight
1/4" and 3/8" Torx bit sets. It's not sintered metal and there is a bit plus using that style. The bit will not drop out. The tool
is made from one piece of metal. It also has a nice long nose on it so you can get into the bolt without fighting it. The best thing
is the price. One other Torx set you may find handy if you ever have to pull the passenger side oil rail is made by Lise Tools.
They have a stubby set of 1/4" and 3/8" Torx bits that are also one piece.

Last thing is the torque wrench. You want to use one that puts you in the middle of it's range and just because it new does not
mean that the calibration is correct. I wished someone would come up with a nice tool for checking the wrench with. one easy way
would be to get a second torque wrench of the beam style and use the two cupped together to check the one your using. The other
thing to do is make friends with someone at a locak tech school that has a cal test tool they will let you check yours on. I am lucky
in that I live very close to the place where I got my schooling and they let me stop in and use the tool to check my wrenches.