Batteries are both good, grp reads same bolts as battery. However. After turning the key over the 2 wire plug going to the turbo pedestal began to click very loud and rapidly. I unplugged it for the time being. Would that cause any issues? I also noticed that there was a rubber o-ring on the valve cover wiring harness that was out of the plug and about an inch down the wire. Next step is ohming each glowplug and injector

 

This is the wiring for the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV), which actuates a butterfly valve - much like a big throttle plate - on the turbo outlet to reduce boost and aid in engine warm up. It's only on when the engine is cold - EOT <130°F - and at idle. Some tuners use it as an engine brake.I wouldn't expect it to rapidly click; it controls a solenoid which allow regular engine oil pressure to close the valve. Shouldn't have any effect on starting. Are you sure the clicking isn't the GPR relay?

If it's this - just a reference photo, I have no idea if this is a good replacement part - then issues with this harness UVCH could definitely be part of your problem. The wires are for both the GP's and the injectors, and that o-ring is both an insulator and a gasket, so oil / water intrusion could affect either or both of those circuits. Sometimes, removing the VC and cleaning these connections and trying the to run it w/o the VC on - so there's no compressive forces on the connector - can reveal a bad connector that might otherwise ohm out good. Your multimeter uses low voltage for resistance checks; the GP run high amps and the injectors are high voltage..

 

Yes is is that connector. Yes I'm sure the clicking wasnt the gpr as I could feel the vibration from the plug
. So is there a way to test glowplugs or injectors with a test light then? Like after the vc have been removed?

 

Anddddd viola. Loose valve cover plug. Took of vlavle cover squeezed it back together, turned over once and fired right up. Lots of white smoke thos so still an issue somewhere

 

Okay I'm at a loss now. After the truck fired up it ran for a few seconds and blew out tons of white smoke. I turned it off as I had the valve covers off and its parked on the side of the road. Waited 2 days for ccv o-rings to get here got it all put back together and bam. No start. There is occasional puffs of white and sometimes grey smoke that comes out of the exhaust. Today is the first day over 0 since I had it running(it was 40° that day) and it simply will not fire up. Left it plugged in all night got oil temp up to 60° and it still will not start. I'm charging the batteries again and am going to try a small hit of ether to see if that will work. If it doesnt then I think I am down to a loss of compression so by by powerstroke
(and the power point fuse was blown, if that changes anything at all)

 

Don't use ether. It can ignite far too early in the compression stroke and really mess things up .
If it fired up after loosening the valve cover and messing with the connections it could very well be a bad valve cover gasket and harness.

 

that's what I was thinking so I removed the same valve cover checked the connection but then but the VC back on. Not tightened or anything just in place with 1 bolt in. Is it possible for it to create a short with the vc on??

 

The pins in the harness or the gasket plug can be bad. some times they get loose and arc till damage is done.

The following thread has some pictures but they are the extreme example. Some others are just barely noticeable unless you really look

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...o-start-3.html

Here's one with a barely burned pin

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...enter-pin.html

 

They looked decent. There was some sludge in them so I cleaned it out the best I could and still nothing. Might bite the bullet and have a mechanic work on it. Idk what else to do

 

You've already done a lot of troubleshooting, so unless you know you've found a guy who's really familiar with the 7.3PSD, you're either gonna spend a lot of money on time or parts, or both. I wouldn't think just having the VC resting on the gasket would mess it up, but who knows. And that still might not be your problem. WD40 is great for cleaning electrical connections if you wanna check those again. It can idle without the VC's on, that's a good way to watch each injector and look for oil exiting from the deflector spout. Use Torque Pro to do some logging while cranking. Just turning on logging doesn't record anything - it's not related at all to whatever gauges you've set up. Look under Settings > Data Logging & Upload > Select what to log. In my previous list I forgot to add IPR, but you have a gauge for that so you know about it. The data will be saved to a file on your device and then you'll need to get that to your PC and open it with Excel or whatever spreadsheet software of choice. Or, if you're sure of what to do with it then you could post it here (if you have enough posts to allow attachments) and someone here - I might if I get a chance - could sort it and help out.

Also, plugging in the block heater really makes a difference if it works. Today it was 25° out and when I connected Torque Pro EOT read 77°. Block heater was on for maybe six hours.

 

It is hard troubleshooting these when it is so cold, even with a block heater. That 40deg day was probably a big help. Once you get it running when warm, you can
troubleshoot the cold start issues much easier.

 

its getting to almost the mid 30's today, the first time since it started, so maybe the little warmer weather will help

 

A data log of just cranking the engine over can show what's off and keeping it from starting. Old, cold or dirty oil can affect injector and IPR operation. I started my truck yesterday afternoon for the first time this year. Around 10am my battery voltage was around 9Vdc and it was 25° out; I set a small battery charger on the a/c compressor and used a dual outlet extension cord to power that and the block heater together. At 4pm it cranked right over and fired up.

 

The data I collected showed me that everything us working correct. I've got the block heater on now and I'm going to charge up the batteries again. Just tried to start it and it cranked over real nice with a 100 amp boost but she woulndt start. Good amount of grey smoke this time. My guess is injectors are pretty gummed up. The owner before me said it sat for over a month before I bought it