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Frame strength, fuel tank relocation

 
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:37 PM
laynrubber
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Frame strength, fuel tank relocation

Plan is to do the mod of installing a fuel tank in the rear part of the frame, I have been reading up on it. One question though.....I am going to remove the rear frame crossmember and move it rearward but it ties in with the rear spring hanger. If I remove that crossmember how will this affect the frame / rear spring mount. Seems there will be more flex there. I canít see boxing the frame in this location as the fuel tank will be sitting in there.
Am I overthinking this ?
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 03:45 AM
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I don't think you're overthinking it at all. The factory designed the chassis the way they did for a reason. Tearing out the connection at the rear spring hangers always bothered me about many of the rear tank conversions, but a lot of people do it. There are rear tank options that don't require such surgery, and if it were me I would explore those. There is also a lot of flex and twist at the back of the frame, and one should give the mounting careful consideration to allow for that without tearing something up. Good luck with your project.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 52 Merc View Post
I don't think you're overthinking it at all. The factory designed the chassis the way they did for a reason. Tearing out the connection at the rear spring hangers always bothered me about many of the rear tank conversions, but a lot of people do it. There are rear tank options that don't require such surgery, and if it were me I would explore those. There is also a lot of flex and twist at the back of the frame, and one should give the mounting careful consideration to allow for that without tearing something up. Good luck with your project.
I agree with 52 you should only do this if it is stronger than it was before. also be thinking of what else this will affect the bed, tail lights and the fuel lines maybe a trailer hitch and the connections they require captured nuts crush tubes ect
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:55 AM
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you can see where I cut the spring crossmember(I drilled holes for plug welds in the boxing plate at the stub) for the chevy tank I used and my cut lines on the lower rail the new rear crossmember at the end of the frame

 
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Old 02-01-2019, 09:01 AM
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another with boxing done bolt tubes in for trailer hitch and bed bolts I got longer bolts for the bed at 4 locations just plan it out the xmember at the front is the old one I cut out the one at the rear is from a donor F250 parts truck

 
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Old 02-01-2019, 09:01 AM
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It all depends on how you plan to use your truck. If you plan to load it down to max factory specs, then leave the cross member alone. If you are like most of us that will never use our trucks to haul anything, then it probably won't hurt a thing to move it.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 04:13 PM
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I moved my crossmembers and switched to ranger hangers and S10 leafs. No issues, so far have only had to haul a few hundred pounds in it, but ride height limits my hauling capacity more than the frame.



 
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Old 02-01-2019, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by drptop70ss View Post
I moved my crossmembers and switched to ranger hangers and S10 leafs. No issues, so far have only had to haul a few hundred pounds in it, but ride height limits my hauling capacity more than the frame.


notice dave has the filler to the rear of the spring hanger
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:33 PM
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Good pictures, thanks for the replies so far. The rear springs and hangars are being changed out for the TCI kit with parabolic leaf springs. The truck will be sporting a fuel injected 428 with a C6 so its not so much that the weight that I will be hauling but more how much i torture it with horsepower. It will haul a loaded car trailer too....frame type hitch.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 05:52 PM
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I have not towed with mine, I would have to add air shocks, but as far as torque I run a fuel injected LT1 with a 6 speed and 4:10 gear. If I get on it too much the whole back of the truck will jump up in the air and bounce all over from the springs wrapping up. IMO You will not be able to torture it much without a 4 link or something other than leaf springs, and then the whole frame itself will come into question as it is not a heavily built frame. I had a 450+HP engine in this truck and it was just stupid so I pulled it and went down to 300HP. Still way more than the truck was made for, I laugh when I see 500HP engines going into a stock framed F1, it will just never get put to the ground without twisting the truck up. The frame was designed to twist, not plant the tires and stay rigid. Just my opinion but I know I would not tow more than a small utility trailer with mine, even my 1/2 ton silverado has a frame that is massive compared to the F1.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 07:00 PM
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Drptop you are right about dragging a trailer I will change my comment there....most likely only will tow a small Boler camper.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:56 PM
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My 53 has a 23 gal tank from a '88 Bronco II. The rear crossmember is moved about as far back as it will go. The truck has north of 90K on it since built, probably 45K of that pulling a teardrop camper and hauling several hundred pounds of camping equipment. While I'm not saying to modify your frame, mine has been beat on for many miles with no noticeable damage.
 
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Old 02-01-2019, 10:51 PM
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why not just relocate them. one to the front of the tank and one to the rear?
here's what i did.

 

Last edited by jbfrmca; 02-01-2019 at 10:59 PM. Reason: forgot pics
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Old 02-02-2019, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jbfrmca View Post
why not just relocate them. one to the front of the tank and one to the rear?
here's what i did.

I hope the cardboard is a temporary idea. It will get wet and disintegrate and then you will have metal to metal contact. When I put the tank back in one of my past projects, I bought an inexpensive rubber door mat and cut it into strips that went between the straps and tank.

Later!
Mr. Ed
 
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Old 02-02-2019, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. Ed View Post
I hope the cardboard is a temporary idea. It will get wet and disintegrate and then you will have metal to metal contact. When I put the tank back in one of my past projects, I bought an inexpensive rubber door mat and cut it into strips that went between the straps and tank.

Later!
Mr. Ed
Iíve always used bicycle inner tubes. As long as theyíre not in direct sunlight they hold up well.
 

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