Good to know!

 

Great find!

 

My understanding is that the delay relay in the cluster sends power to the bigger relay under the dash which actually powers the stuff in the vehicle. Mine started acting wonky and I didn't know that the delay relay was accessible and reparable so I installed a jumper wire from the ignition switch harness to the under dash relay so it's on with the key on and made everything work again.

 

I've been working on my lower dash and figured it would be easier to pull it which requires the upper dash trim to come out and since I was only 4 bolts and few plugs, I figured I take a look at the ADR.

I won't know if this really fixes my ADR until things warm up as that is when I experienced the problem but I suspect it will since there were cracked solder joints on the ADR

Man-o-war thanks again for posting this up. It the first I've seen as to where the relay is and what needs to be done. Sure beats sending it of at the tune of 170 bones! Or at least worth a shot.

Here is the back of the cluster all put together:


Here is the cluster with the rear housing off:


Here is the cluster with the circuit board removed:


Here is a close up of the 8 posts of the ADR. Two of mine had cracks in the solder joint.


Here is the after shot with some reworked solder on the ADR:

 

Is what doesn't work dependent on which ADR pins break free?
I frequently have the fuel gauge drop to empty, but rarely the windows & radio not working

Edit... And the lie o meter still reads proper (used loosely) miles to empty

 

Awesome! I added solder to all 8 connections, looked same as your job, round drop of silver on each pin. Thanks for the pics. report back if anything is better now

 

I don't know enough about it to answer, but cracked post will cause random issues depending on temperature due to intermittent connection. Best to rework all 8 posts and eliminate the issue. miles to empty is a different (flawed) system. even with gauge below E mine reads in 100s of miles to empty

 

Unfortunately, while windows and radio are working properly since soldering, fuel gauge has dropped below E again the following day

I'll be removing the sending unit and ohming it all out to try and find what's causing it. So far i have only used Chevron Concentrated fuel cleaner PLUS twice, and it seemed to help, but problem keeps coming back

Also, V10 sender is the same, and only 130 bucks.....or junkyard for cheaps, and it fits 29 gallon tank perfectly (short bed 7.3). I'll report back

 

have been having the same issue with fuel gauge, dropping to empty with known fuel in tank, coming back up to proper level, doing fine for days, etc.. All this started happening, I noticed after hearing the beep and seeing the low fuel light on, after doing the hutch mod on fuel tank. I have only filled it up real full several times and that was during or right before towing the airstream somewhere.. I keep a mileage log of when i get fuel and how much and reset the trip odometer as well.

I do remember a time or two, very very isolated at best, when the power windows would not go up or down. I thought it was the lockout switch on door (wifes window would not go down and that is what triggered it) and did not pay attention to fuel gauge or any thing else to see if there was a relationship in them.

So now wondering if this dashboard issue might be the cause or a precursor to what might be coming and to do the repair NOW vs later when it becomes a real issue..

 

I have the same fuel gauge ghost. I've already purchased a salvage gauge on a much lower mileage truck and ohmed it to verify that it works fine. I'm also going to play around with two things:
1. Re-bend the float arm assembly to cover more height travel so I can no have to run 100-120 miles before seeing the float drop at all, and
2. Work with the geometry to prepare a replacement NEW gauge using one of those new-fangled cylindrical ISSPRO sending units as an "upgrade".

 

It was warm here today (80 degrees) and took the opportunity to move the truck out of the garage and let it sit in the sun a good 4-5 hours. This on a warm day would normally trigger the ADR to not work. Im happy to report I had zero issues. Ill report back as we get closer to summer time.

 

Good news!

I have also not had a single issue with windows or radio since soldering the ADR

 

 

Nice! Wish this had been posted years ago with photos because its a simple fix

 

So you are thinking the fuel gauge issues was more a flakey sending unit vs the issues with dash?? I did not have fuel guage issue till after doing hutch mod on tank. just asking. just trying to make sure cause its a pain to drop the tank and put back etc..