He said he found the diagram in a earlier post, and it's a 49 state diagram so it's not a California truck. Even though it's being registered in Ca, they can't make him convert it to Ca emissions if it was born a 49 state truck. At least I don't think they can. If they did that, it would take all the 49 state vehicles off the road in Ca.

 

Franklin is correct. With the help of cbutitus about 8 years ago and some documentation from a garage I confirmed the calibration code and later again with the manual. It's a 49 state truck and its registered in Cali. That diagram is what the sticker on my radiator support should read. I may need to get the idle control valve hooked in behind the delay valve and infront of the cannister. Just a guess. I also just put an old coil on just to rule the new one out. Seems fine. Also thought maybe the fuel line was pulling slightly at the dist cap so I put a longer one on so there's no bind. Now Im addressing the choke cap I'm about to finish installing now that it's cold again. I've yet to eliminate booster yet, either

 

The only stupid question is the one not asked. So, I had trouble getting cap on choke while engine warm and choke plate verticsal and cap at index mark because spring wasn't warmed so now engine is cold and capcoil is cold and should it just ehooked on so when gas pedal pushed choke plate closes and on indewx mark. Turn cap 90 degrees for good measure? and readjust?

 

I did not under stand what all you were asking but here goes.
It does not make a difference if it is hot or cold when you put the choke cap on.
You have to make sure the finger is in the hole of the spring in the cap. So if you have to turn cap to get the spring lined up so be it.
Once the spring & finger are in place and the cap to the carb turn the cap so the index line lines up with the mark on the housing.
If you don't know what mark pick 1 to start at and then adjust as needed from there.

BTW my cap does not have any marks or rich / lean on the out side so I adjusted it so it would close the choke a little when cold.
I found I had to adjust it so it would close more when cold and may still need more yet.
Dave ----

 

I see. That makes sense. The index mark is probably put there individually per cap. After riveted to cap and after choke opens. Thanks, Dave.

 

I just wanted to point out you did not need to wait for the temp to be right to get the finger & hole in coil to line up.
It could be 10* or 100* just put the 2 together then put cap in place and turn the cap so it will close the choke.
The mark may be way off just turn it so it is close to 1 of the marks on the housing as a starting point and adjust as needed from there.
Dave ----

 

 

Been doing more reading. Does your distributor have advance weights? And have you ever checked the rpms when it misses?

 

Yes to that diag I was wondering where to plug the 4th (spark port) nipple. Thank you. Not sure about weights, and haven't checked rpms while in gear. It seems to be even not in gear but sounds now like a surge or miss like something clogged then flowing like a filter but they're new. The tank might have debris. I put the clear filter on to see the fuel being drawn. It's always full. I'll check the rpm now and hook up that regulator again.

 

I still have a lot more reading to do on distributors, but I found this article here. https://www.racingjunk.com/news/2015...r-distributor/ and one more I don't have up, see if I can find it again. Looks like vacuum advances timing during idle, and weights advance timing under acceleration. Wondering how many different distributor types are out there. Mine uses ported vacuum to advance the distributor. It appears yours uses a combination of manifold and ported vacuum and that regulator controls which one and when. Makes me think you don't have weights, but really don't know, will do more reading.

 

Also, going to see if I can find a different emissions diagram, i'm not sure about the one you posted, if it's mislabeled or misrouted, show's spark going to the emissions and emissions port going to the regulator lol seems ...backwards? to me.

 

Found these two floating around here, second one someone made it cad modeled after their hose routing. Seems to me they match the other one, but ports arent labeled, so I guess if yours matches the routing it should be right.

 

I really appreciate your help.

 

Need to give my eyes a rest, going to go work on clearing out my junk for awhile. Want to update us on your trucks current condition? I went through all the posts again last night and this morning and make a shorthand list on progress. Last I have down is rebuilding the carb fixed the issues, but now we're sorting out idle? I probably should have written down more details.

 

Tried to drive across town and the old coil I put on stranded me. I brought one with, though. As of now-it's a serious hard miss that gets worse while driving. The first light it makes it without a miss.while in D and foot on brake. The next light is missing steadily. so throw it in Neutral and it continues getting bogged but light green throw it in D and I'm off but seems to load up and get worse and worse. Fuel filter is full It gets warmer and this gets worse. I'm at wits endf. Just tried to get timing again and there is vacuum at advance with regulator hooked up/ 4 port but my diag shows 3 port maybe Ill cap the s port (4th port) of regulator. Anyway I have to. I work tomorrow I don't know if Ill even make it. Runs good right now artound the block over and over.