1980 f150 5.0 c6 runs bad under load.
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#18
Once upon a time I had a bad horseshoe connector resulting in a bad connection on the negative side of the coil.
This caused intermittent ignition misses, loss of power, and a couple ruined coils before I finally figured it out.
Looking at the old one I was surprised to find the thin little coil wires at the horseshoe were merely crimped from the factory and it’s really a wonder it held up as long as it did.
Anyway, cheap and easy to replace and rule out.
This caused intermittent ignition misses, loss of power, and a couple ruined coils before I finally figured it out.
Looking at the old one I was surprised to find the thin little coil wires at the horseshoe were merely crimped from the factory and it’s really a wonder it held up as long as it did.
Anyway, cheap and easy to replace and rule out.
#19
Thanks for the diagram Kramercd and the reply about the horseshoe connector Brnfree. A couple weeks ago I had a couple instances of sparks arcing I saw with the flashlight turned off. Also, twice the connector slid off enough to keep it from starting. So I got a new one and transfered wires over in their crimps because the wires the connector came with were smaller gauge. I figured it was the plastic getting out of shape. Anyway, I've been watching it. I also put my old newish coil back on to see if either was affected. I believe it's possible that both are suspect. It happens after the choke opens and again it's still as bad as ever. Brand new set of plugs. High end wires less than a year old. It's started to become more defined. There's surging I detect now. It's idling nice in park, warmed up, choke open, vacuum gauge shows 17-18 and steady needle. However, regular intervals show a slight drop in vacuum and thats the surge I'm talking about. When I get in and put it in gear, brake on, the idle drops and then it shudders in a regular pattern about every 5 seconds bumpbumpbump 3 times, throw it into neutral idles nice with slight surge detected, throw it in drive and bump bump bump. idles nice then bumpbumpbump. These are hard misses like it wants to shut off. Like the new egr is stuck open, like the carb needs me to put that new kit on.
Lastly, will try to see if motor is opening under aircleaner and purge valve hooked up right and will pull carb after that. It seems like I had it for a minute yesterday but the more it runs the more it gets bad. Maybe the cats clogged but I can't figure it out. It does get smokey in the back but theres a slight oil leak in the way back behind the tree. maybe that's finally causing probs.
Lastly, will try to see if motor is opening under aircleaner and purge valve hooked up right and will pull carb after that. It seems like I had it for a minute yesterday but the more it runs the more it gets bad. Maybe the cats clogged but I can't figure it out. It does get smokey in the back but theres a slight oil leak in the way back behind the tree. maybe that's finally causing probs.
#20
Well I thought I would give it one good try hose by hose and be certain the vacuum is good per diagram. It is The timing is at 10 it runs beautiful for minutes here and there. No, seconds though. For seconds it feels strong if that jogs any body's memory. I rechecked timing I have mixture at 17-18 # I pull a line from the tree and listen for a nothing to very little lower rpm. That's where it is. I'm stumped. MAybe check out that clip. Could it be the jets in the carb? They were stuck in there on my rebuild
#21
When I replaced my coil, the horseshoe connector was loose on it. Ended up buying a new one and swapping the leads over as well. This may help you narrow down what may be wrong in the carb. https://www.aa1car.com/library/carburetor.htm
#22
I liked that link thanks. So, I had to pull over and try plugging the hose to the egr again and it ran good after that, so 'Im taking the new egr back in and hopefully this is it. Still may pull carb to get new parts installed. My power valve was single stage in the last kit and I have a dual stage in my current kit.
#23
I liked that link thanks. So, I had to pull over and try plugging the hose to the egr again and it ran good after that, so 'Im taking the new egr back in and hopefully this is it. Still may pull carb to get new parts installed. My power valve was single stage in the last kit and I have a dual stage in my current kit.
#24
Yes. I'm aware of that it could be hooked wrong or the other things on the vacuum line could mess with it and the new china made parts (lifetime-ya right). It was a different looking egr they gave me. From Standard Brand it's all silver with a solid nipple and a very tiny hole in that nipple. The other was a swivel nippel and brass colored.
Anyway, After installing it it still didn't fix it. Then I happened to spot a hole on the secondary fresh air intake pipe. Upon closer inspection found the whole pipe perforated in one spot. Celebrated then cried when I wrapped the pipe and it still didn't get quite right. Maybe fouled more plugs from being too rich from the hole in that pipe. sigh
Maybe the carb gets pulled
Anyway, After installing it it still didn't fix it. Then I happened to spot a hole on the secondary fresh air intake pipe. Upon closer inspection found the whole pipe perforated in one spot. Celebrated then cried when I wrapped the pipe and it still didn't get quite right. Maybe fouled more plugs from being too rich from the hole in that pipe. sigh
Maybe the carb gets pulled
#25
Well, I rebuilt the carb two nights ago and the next day installed it and it's fixed. It ran better than ever did. However, when pulling off hose from advance can the idle dropped drastically and almost died. I'm running rich if anything, though. Some reason I'm getting vac at my vac advance at idle. I thought advance needs to have a splitter with a check valve going to man vac, carb right fronbt, and advance can. All three merge at a little vrv thing. I fdigure I must have the tvs or purge valve hooked up wrong. Any ideas.??I've got it back to missing again. Maybe fouled another plug. Rebuid went well though and I can immediately drive with the choke on. but it takes forever to open and get up to temp. The temp switch maybe my problem. Maybe the distributor after all.. hmm.
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My problem I suspect is no delay valve and/or the two nipples of my cwv or tvs whichever it is sticking out of a/c (one has wider nipple) It seems like the pvs (2 port) is being fed vacuum from s port of carb but the feed to egr gets split and the s port seems to feed vacuum to too many things imo. The vdv I have has 3 labeled nipples (man,carb,dist)_ but there is another nipple coming out the front. Not sure if plugging matters I've tried both ways This is getting personal. I need to mention...put timing back to 10 btc and seemed to respond better. Still serious miss in D or R and only after warmed up.
#30
Do you have vacuum on the dist at idle? If you do, that is messing you up some and could be the reason for the miss. There is another thread going on here and the guy had the same problem and had vacuum at idle on the dist line.
I wish I could help you on hooking all that emissions stuff back up, but it's too complex and I have never gotten into it very deep.
I wish I could help you on hooking all that emissions stuff back up, but it's too complex and I have never gotten into it very deep.