Hello Experts!
Is it possible that bad o-rings on the EGR Valve cause water to get into the engine (white smoke), or is that only possible through the EGR cooler?

 

A cracked EGR cooler allows water into the passage of the intake via the EGR valve. A bad EGR valve will not leak coolant, the cooler leaks coolant when it fails.

 

Thanks for the confirmation.

While selling this truck I would start it up and drive it just around the block in order to keep things moving and lubricated. The last time I ran it I noticed there was no white smoke, which I figured was due to low water. After running it maybe 5 minutes (just warm) I stopped it and poured water into the reservoir. I thought this was a good idea. It took four gallons of water. But when I went to start it I got nothing - no crank at all. This was a perfectly starting truck. I took the EGR Valve off to inspect the obvious - water in the manifold. I vacuumed that out. The EGR valve o-rings were in bad shape when I pulled valve out, but that could have only happened during the extraction - hence my question.

However, now I have no crank - nothing. What might have happened by adding water and can I fix it good enough to get it started again? - I think I am aware of the EGR Cooler solutions.

 

 

If you can't rotate the crank manually there's a good chance one or more cylinders have filled with coolant and its hydro locked.

 

That's my fear. And that's what it feels like.
Is the only solution the one where you remove the glow plugs and pump it out using the starter?

 

Myself, I'd pull the glow plugs and hand turn the motor over to get what can be drained before pressure injecting the coolant out. But that's if the manual turning of the crack doesn't go.

People have had the A/C compressor fail and cause a locked motor situation, but they didn't have the coolant loss you have.

 

I don't want the truck sitting with water in the pistons like that - I'm sure that can do some serious damage. I never thought it would be possible to hand crank it - I'll try that.

I know I need to fix the EGR Cooler and I hear the EGR delete is effective - but will that prevent it from passing any smog test? I'm in CA. Or is there still hope it could pass?

 

I believe it is illegal to remove emissions equipment in any state. In Cali they would probably put you in the electric chair for removing the EGR cooler no?? You could replace your existing EGR cooler with a new stock unit or Bullet Proof Diesel sells a modified version which is less prone to the failures that you see in the stock units.

 

Hmmm, Cali. At 59 and a life-long resident of Cali I can only say I've seen a lot. Here's my best (unsolicited) advice: watch out! These idiots are migrating east and carrying with them the same stupid policies that have mired this state into a political handbag of illegals and liberals voting for whatever is promised for free. And when they're done, next up is a bunch of overpaid actors who think that standing in front of a mirror and posing means the rest of the world should here what thin air sounds like when it passes through their brains. And finally, 'let's not forget' <-- (my favorite use of words by a so-called intellects) the computer geeks who think the world lives in a binary format. They've got feces piling up in the streets of SF and what did Cali do? Well, they voted for the idiot who was mayor of that town, whatdayathinkofthat? Having fun yet? Guess what? The newly elected Senator from that same dump ground now believes she's presidential material. I mean, honest to god, people. If you think morons can hit rock bottom, think again. I thought I could stomach the nausea and wait it out for a period until sanity returned. Now, I'm looking to move to San Antonio or someplace - if they'll have me. If they threw me out due to my being from Cali I think I'd have even more respect for them. Anyway, protect your communities, friends. Lest you get syphilis of the brain and end up like this state.

Sorry, bud, you struck a nerve.

Back to the EGR cooler. I figured it was illegal. But if it passes the test then they'd never know. I guess nobody really has any experience with that.

 

If there is a visual check like most smog inspections and you're missing an EGR cooler then you will fail a visual. It's real easy to spot. Some guys will weld up the ends of the cooler but then on 2006 trucks it will throw a MIL from lack of EGR flow which then you will fail again. So then you could run a tuner to keep the light off but that's not SMOG legal either in CA so you fail again.
Do I have that right?
So in this case I'd replace it with a Bullet Proof Diesel EGR Cooler and call it a day.

 

"Some guys will weld up the ends of the cooler but then on 2006 trucks it will throw a MIL from lack of EGR flow which then you will fail again."

I did not know that. And that's what I was contemplating.

Is the $350 Mesa, AZ bulletproof cooler my best option in your opinion? I don't drive this thing hard or even tow anything. Mainly, I have an under-the-hood VMAC screw compressor and even then I'm barely using it now. So it's basically sunny, mild weather and easy use. Are those $80 re-manufactured coolers any good? I just don't want to pay top dollar for something that is BS.

BTW, how difficult is it to replace those EGR coolers. I've seen a few videos on it and I'm adept with tools, but I would need a few tools since I'm not doing this for a living.

 

In order to resize the EGR cooler for the higher volume of flow without a huge redesign of the intake system, and in a production price point, the OE EGR cooler is what it is. And would be OK if the oil cooler never diminished in flow to cool the ERG cooler under all circumstances. You keep your cooling system and thereby oil cooler in optimum condition, the EGR cooler stays in good condition for its lack of robustness.

So it's easy to get to the point of diminishing cooler flow, and thereby overheating the EGR cooler. The $350 aftermarket has proven to be more robust the OE. I would say either OE or the $350 unit. The $80 remanufactured unit could be a risk to go while you're taking out your prospective buyer on a test drive. The $350 unit would be a good selling point.

Are you going to have to Smog this just before the sale? I thought there was a requirement even if it's been down prior to something like 90 days. I'm on the wrong coast, I'm not sure.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Thank you for this advice, it solved my problem with the no-crank vapor-lock. I'm not sure how anyone would do it on a stock setup in terms of grabbing it enough to turn it. I had a special pulley on the shaft due to an under-the-hood screw compressor which had some holes in it and that gave me an opportunity to grab and turn it.