I have a '59 International with an Eaton electric shift 2 speed rear. Yes, I know this is a Ford forum, but seeing as how I know these axles were also used in large Fords, Chevys, etc of those years, I thought someone here might be able to help, as the guys on the International forum kept focusing on parts that weren't even installed on the truck...

I bought the truck as a non driveable project that was sitting for years before I got it, then continued to sit for another couple until a couple months ago, so I don't have any driving history on this axle. Finally got it going a little while ago, and found that attempting to shift the 2 speed rear into high range resulted it only disengaging low, and acting like it went into neutral most of the time. I understand that there isn't an intentional neutral on these axles, just saying that's how it acted. Occasionally, it would get into high range, but was constantly popping out of gear. Constantly, as in several times in less than 1/8th mile, making it essentially undriveable in high range at all. I did find that it would drive in reverse in high range OK, but acted like it was in neutral going forward.

I pulled the shift unit off the axle, and attempted to shift the fork over by hand. By rotating the driveshaft a bit, it felt like it slid over into high range, and felt like it shifted all the way, but then I found that while turning the driveshaft in a forward direction by hand, the shift fork was ratcheting back and forth, and wouldn't engage at all, but again, felt solid while turning the driveshaft in reverse. I THINK this indicates an internal issue with the differential, and I did verify that the shift motor itself is working on the bench.

I pulled the center section out of the axle, got it up on the bench, and pulled the sliding clutch out. It appears to be virtually new, with no wear. I looked down the bore, and I can't see any immediate evidence of broken or overly worn teeth on the high speed clutch plate, but admittedly, I'm not 100% sure what I should be seeing here either as I've never worked on one of these things before. The pins/rollers on the shift fork also don't appear to have exceessive wear. There's a tiny amount of play that I can feel between the rollers and sliding clutch groove, but I'd imagine that it isn't intended to be a super close fit. The shift fork pivot pin also fits into the shift fork well, with maybe a few thousandths worth of clearance.

I'm thinking my next step would be further disassembly of the carrier for a closer inspection of the high speed clutch plate, but wanted to make sure I'm going down the right path before doing this, as I'm not really well equipped to handle stuff this large, and didn't want to start tearing this thing down only to find out that my issue was something simple somewhere else, lol. It took the neighbor's tractor just to get the carrier from the truck to the garage, as my property is 100% dirt, and I still don't have the slightest clue how I'm going to manage to get the carrier back IN the axle once the problem is fixed....

 

you already know more than I know...I recently had to change my carrier out. the last one inch of the pinion had "lost" its threads where the nut that holds the yolk on fastens to that part of the pinion. I made a big error by trying to force the yolk back on by using the nut to push the yolk back on and instead took out the threads...super stupid...do NOT use the nut to compress the yolk back in place...I couldnt find a replacement ring and pinion new. I called Eaton. I called lots of places i couldnt find one Fortunately,.I had another diff from my parts truck so that went in the tool truck. Its slightly different...to what came out....the ring gear has 37 teeth for what is currently in there and the one that came out had 35....I had the ability to go faster on level ground prior and actually outrun the brake capacity of the truck...the current carrier allows me to pull a grade a little better...its a very subtle difference....it kills me because the carrier that I ruined the pinion treads for also had NO wear on it...only 70,000 miles.. I was "repairing" a leaking pinion seal that had been leaking the whole 3 years I had the truck and probably had been leaking for another 20 years before that....I had a bad rear u joint...that caused me to go and also deal with the pinion seal...the guy who installed my box stretched the frame 3 feet and also did the drive shaft work only installed 5 of six new u joints....he left the rear one as it was and it failed...the failed u joint probably played a role in the loss of my pinion threads right there at the yolk but my actions made sure these threads failed I only knew it was bad because I could feel a vibration so that vibration caused the nut to loosen up....it came off easily...I didnt think much of that when it did..when the nut wouldnt tighten back up I then understood more....I hope I can find a machinist or someone who can add threads to that one inch section eventually..since a new ring and pinion seemingly is out of the question...its hard to believe for as many of these that are out there that someone doesnt have one on a shelf somewhere....I struggle here because its a beautiful unit and super clean ...these carriers are HEAVY....I did mine on concrete with a large semi truck transmission jack that a friend of mine has. We fashioned a jig for to hold it in place on the jack. The jig and jack allowed the appropriate position/angle to line things up and get the replacement carrier back into the bango....this was all done last April....surprisingly it took several attempts to seal up the axle tube ends also...do yourself a favor and replace the studs and nuts there and follow a good torque pattern to tighten those axle ends up...I am slow to learn and finally replaced all the studs and nuts and gaskets at the same time and made sure I torqued everything properly to stop the axle grease leaks onto my outer dual wheel....that oil leaking there was annoying and messy...how many teeth is on your ring gear??.....