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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

300-6 Idle miss

 
  #46  
Old 02-03-2019, 11:38 AM
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On my truck, the coil was mounted sideways from the factory. When I replaced it, I left it in the same orientation.
 
  #47  
Old 02-03-2019, 12:01 PM
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Ok thanks I'll re position it, I had it hanging upright while I was hooking things up. What's a good choke setting on these 1 bbls? Mine is currently set on the index mark. Still a little idle miss, It had some stale smelling gas in the tank when I bought it, maybe a quarter tank. I never ran it totally empty before filling it, could the stale gas cause it to idle rough? Timing is set to specs
 
  #48  
Old 02-03-2019, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 1981 F100 View Post
Ok thanks I'll re position it, I had it hanging upright while I was hooking things up. What's a good choke setting on these 1 bbls? Mine is currently set on the index mark. Still a little idle miss, It had some stale smelling gas in the tank when I bought it, maybe a quarter tank. I never ran it totally empty before filling it, could the stale gas cause it to idle rough? Timing is set to specs
Yes stale fuel will be hard to start and when it starts can run ruff / miss.
If you still have that stale fuel in it I would put some fresh fuel in it and a bottle of Sea Foam in the tank and drive the crap out of it for 2 or 3 tanks and see whathappens.
Dave ----
 
  #49  
Old 02-03-2019, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
Yes stale fuel will be hard to start and when it starts can run ruff / miss.
If you still have that stale fuel in it I would put some fresh fuel in it and a bottle of Sea Foam in the tank and drive the crap out of it for 2 or 3 tanks and see whathappens.
Dave ----
Had at least 8 gallons of very foul smelling gas in it when I bought it, as it only took 10 gallons to fill front tank.The guy said it was sitting about a year. I already put sea foam in, gas gauge moves to E then stops. No clue about rear tank
 
  #50  
Old 02-03-2019, 06:57 PM
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Ok then just run a few tanks of fresh fuel thru it then start to look into bad running as it should have good fuel in it.
For the gauge with the key on ground the sender wire and it should move to full. Don't leave it at full for long as it can hurt the gauge.
Temp & oil gauges work the same way, ground the sender wires and the gauge should move if gauges & wiring are good.

On that other tank it may be best to drop it and make sure it is clean inside before putting fuel in it.
Dave ----
 
  #51  
Old 02-03-2019, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
Ok then just run a few tanks of fresh fuel thru it then start to look into bad running as it should have good fuel in it.
For the gauge with the key on ground the sender wire and it should move to full. Don't leave it at full for long as it can hurt the gauge.
Temp & oil gauges work the same way, ground the sender wires and the gauge should move if gauges & wiring are good.

On that other tank it may be best to drop it and make sure it is clean inside before putting fuel in it.
Dave ----
What I am gonna do is use a temporary tank, and use that while I pull both tanks on my truck and have them cleaned. I am thinking maybe the float in my front tank might have a pinhole in it.
 
  #52  
Old 02-08-2019, 05:03 PM
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A little update: Today while I was doing my newspaper motor route, it suddenly sputtered and died. I assumed I had run out of gas, so I had some brought out. After 5 minutes of fighting it it finally started, and I went on my way. Ran smooth as I was driving, but still had the very rough idle with black smoke. As I was driving towards home it died on me again. Had to "feather the throttle to keep it running so I could get home, but still died another 4 times. I am at a loss here, could I still be picking up crap from the front tank? I do have a clean gas tank out of a Ford car I am going to test with
 
  #53  
Old 02-09-2019, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 1981 F100 View Post
A little update: Today while I was doing my newspaper motor route, it suddenly sputtered and died. I assumed I had run out of gas, so I had some brought out. After 5 minutes of fighting it it finally started, and I went on my way. Ran smooth as I was driving, but still had the very rough idle with black smoke. As I was driving towards home it died on me again. Had to "feather the throttle to keep it running so I could get home, but still died another 4 times. I am at a loss here, could I still be picking up crap from the front tank? I do have a clean gas tank out of a Ford car I am going to test with
Pull the filter and see if the backside is plugged. My tank is off my truck right now for paint. I haven't cleaned it out yet. It has several floaties, some are definitely bugs from an improperly cleaned and stored fuel can. So along with the tiny bits of sediment on the bottom mines got filter bombs at all levels of the fuel column.
 
  #54  
Old 02-09-2019, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 1981 F100 View Post
A little update: Today while I was doing my newspaper motor route, it suddenly sputtered and died. I assumed I had run out of gas, so I had some brought out. After 5 minutes of fighting it it finally started, and I went on my way. Ran smooth as I was driving, but still had the very rough idle with black smoke. As I was driving towards home it died on me again. Had to "feather the throttle to keep it running so I could get home, but still died another 4 times. I am at a loss here, could I still be picking up crap from the front tank? I do have a clean gas tank out of a Ford car I am going to test with
Ok so black smoke out tail pipe is a sign it is running rich.
There can only be a few reasons that I know that can cause this:
High float level so carb floods over.
Crap stuck in the needle / seat of float so it cant close and causes the cab to flood over.
Electric fuel pumps that put out to much psi and over power the needle & seat to cause the carb to flood over.
Choke not adjusted / working right so it will not open all the way or gets sucks closed.

I would check the choke to make sure it is some what working right. When cold it should be closed all but a about a 1/16" gap. It should open all the way when the motor is up to temp and stay there.
For testing run it with out the air filter assy. and plug all vacuum lines that go to it, again for testing. Drive it till it happens again and pop the hood and look at choke. If it is closed I would look into why and fix it.
On some carbs you can adjust the choke, if you can adjust so it is open more and see what that does.

If the choke looks to be working good then look to the float and needle and seat.
Dave ----
 
  #55  
Old 02-09-2019, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
Ok so black smoke out tail pipe is a sign it is running rich.
There can only be a few reasons that I know that can cause this:
High float level so carb floods over.
Crap stuck in the needle / seat of float so it cant close and causes the cab to flood over.
Electric fuel pumps that put out to much psi and over power the needle & seat to cause the carb to flood over.
Choke not adjusted / working right so it will not open all the way or gets sucks closed.

I would check the choke to make sure it is some what working right. When cold it should be closed all but a about a 1/16" gap. It should open all the way when the motor is up to temp and stay there.
For testing run it with out the air filter assy. and plug all vacuum lines that go to it, again for testing. Drive it till it happens again and pop the hood and look at choke. If it is closed I would look into why and fix it.
On some carbs you can adjust the choke, if you can adjust so it is open more and see what that does.

If the choke looks to be working good then look to the float and needle and seat.
Dave ----
Does not have electric pump, Choke is set to index mark (Not sure if this is right setting for carb # D9TE-MA) I wiped the bowl out, and this black sediment was in it. I have a clean temporary tank mounted in the bed, and ran a brand new line from it to the fuel pump. Put in a fresh set of plugs, will put fresh gas in so will see what it does

 
  #56  
Old 02-09-2019, 02:47 PM
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I did not see posted a new fuel filter and from the looks of that rag a new filter is needed big time ........ you do have a fuel filter between fuel pump on motor and carb right?
What ever that is it does not look good.
Dave ----
 
  #57  
Old 02-09-2019, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
I did not see posted a new fuel filter and from the looks of that rag a new filter is needed big time ........ you do have a fuel filter between fuel pump on motor and carb right?
What ever that is it does not look good.
Dave ----
That was after I cleaned the carb. ALL new line from the clean temporary tank, to the fuel pump. New filter. Fresh fuel in the tank as well. I got it going, and still has the very rough idle, but runs smooth as silk as long as I have foot on the gas.
 
  #58  
Old 02-09-2019, 04:06 PM
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Ok so that was before the fresh fuel etc.
On the choke index that is only a reference mark wile making adjustments, mine does not have any marks and is fun to "dial in" the tune.
You can try to go half to 1 line leaner to see if that makes a change.
Dave ----
 
  #59  
Old 02-09-2019, 05:07 PM
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I was inspecting vacuum lines and when I pulled the power brake one off to check it, the hose nipple came off still in the hose. Not sure if that would cause it or not. I'm running out of ideas
 
  #60  
Old 02-09-2019, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by 1981 F100 View Post
I was inspecting vacuum lines and when I pulled the power brake one off to check it, the hose nipple came off still in the hose. Not sure if that would cause it or not. I'm running out of ideas
Was this at the manifold or the booster end of hose?
Booster side is a check valve. If you run the motor then shut it off and step on the brakes it should give 2 or 3 pumps with vacuum and get hard to push till the motor runs again.
If not working this way bad check valve and needs to be replaced.

At the manifold if it did not have a good seal it could be a vacuum leak. Test when running with carb cleaner.
Maybe use a 2 part epoxy the next time you install the nipple in the intake to "glue & seal it".

We are what 4 pages into this maybe do a recap, I know it will be long post, on what you have done, parts & tuning and what it is still doing.
I am sure other things have been tried and failed since the first page and I am sure other don't want to read all 4 pages to find out.
also with everything in 1 post it may jog something that has been over looked.
Dave ----
 

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