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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Knee deep and over my head, maybe

 
  #61  
Old 01-25-2019, 03:06 PM
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Looking like all I'm going to get done today is prep both trucks(hopefully) to swap doors and interiors tomorrow.
 
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Old 01-25-2019, 04:23 PM
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I know its not how much you wanted to get done but it is a start.
A little bit each day and before you know it it is done.

My little bit each day has taken 3 years so far.
Dave ----
 
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Old 01-25-2019, 05:50 PM
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Got my truck prepped, switching to the donor truck. If I can the hood and quarter panels off before it gets dark, or too dark, then I'll start gutting it's interior. I don't have to take the doors off of it, but my mechanic shack is tiny and I won't be able to pull the interior on my truck with the doors on. For sure the seats. And the donor is out in the yard so I don't want to pull the doors if they are going to stay off for awhile, I honestly can't remember the last time the ground was dry, sick of rain. This is a lot of fun, hope I like driving it when it's done. I'm using the doors from the donor parts, but my windows are nicer, so if I can remove them I will swap those around as well. Spent ten minutes adjusting one of the tiny mirrors to see if it would work so I don't have to drill more holes, but it was some kind of terrible, I gave up before I ever got it adjusted. Pretty sure I'm going to hate the blue interior. Dave can you recommend a paint for the interior components, plastic and canvas? LMC has a rattle can type that is supposed to do the plastic, canvas, and upholstery, but I'm not sure I trust it. Got distracted typing this, it's full dark now, going back in, will return when too tired to wrench, or out of beer, whichever's first. Pictures after I call it quits.
 
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Old 01-25-2019, 09:48 PM
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For repainting or change of color for the inside parts I use nothing but SEM products.
I have used satin black on the dash (all I have done so far) on another project but to tell the truth in the 10 years since I did it it has never been out side, still working on that project.
My truck I also used SEM in a color as close to the factory color I could get. Again so far only the dash but the kick & door panels and seat belt covers to look new again.

I will tell you if you think you have to prep the outside of a car / truck before painting do that 100% when repainting any thing for the inside.
I hit the parts with a wax & grease remover then was the parts in hot soapy water 3 times, changing the water between washings. I also is a red scotch pad as a sponge. Just go easy as you do not want to sand away the texture on the panels.
Rinse a few times after the last wash and let dry a day or two. I then hit it with the wax & grease remover a last time before I use SEM prep and then paint.

The door panels that came with my truck someone hit with a spray bomb and it is coming off in places so that needs to come off with out hurting them before I can do anything else.
I have some old brake fluid from when bleeding the brakes and I am thinking of using it to remove the paint. And I hope not to hurt the panels.
Dave ----
 
  #65  
Old 01-26-2019, 10:31 AM
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I think when I called it quits last night I was too cold to tell how tired I was. I made it to the recliner, wife fixed me some of her world famous leftovers. Got the laptop out and then the sun came up. I never even plugged my phone in to upload pictures. I feel like a whipped dog. More sun today, still freezing. After this update I'll dig out my warming layers and head back out. I think I can get most of what I planned done today. Almost changed my mind on the full interior swap, Some of my parts are in great shape, and if I'm going to paint everything anyway it doesn't really matter, that'd keep the blue to a minimum. I think I'm just going to use which ever part is nicer regardless of color.



Missing two pieces of the trim off the donor truck. So I'm not going to use it. Like the style of trim my truck has. it's also missing pieces. So I think 0 trim until after truck gets painted(someday) then I'll order the expensive stuff from LMC. This trim will be up for grabs for sure when I get done with the truck. Haven't decided about other trim pieces on other truck. Think I may make a new thread listing all the extras I have.


Here's the seat in the donor




Here's the flaws in the donor interior. I forgot to get a picture of the dash speaker, it's cracking is minimal.






 
  #66  
Old 01-26-2019, 10:57 AM
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This is after I pulled the hood. Shows the two old tshirts I wedged under the corners of the hood. Kept it from sliding around when I unbolted the hinges, propped the front up with a big stick. Went smooth

These are still serviceable right? uh, gently used?



Computer and internet giving me a hard time. Taking forever and keep messing up on the images and i've lost several drafts, hence lots of posts
 
  #67  
Old 01-26-2019, 11:01 AM
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Dave, IIRC you've done body work a time or two lol 3/4" Filler is an industry standard right? This is the second truck i've worked on with excessive filler.

Vac res full of fluid, looks 50/50 fresh/burnt motor out, although hard to determine color.
 
  #68  
Old 01-26-2019, 11:10 AM
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This is the most trouble I had last night. Second U type speed nut to do me this way on the truck. This one was driver side quarter panel, bottom corner by door. Even after I cut the head off I still couldnt remove it the way the clip broke, did manage to wrestle the panel off then figured out what happened and managed to get the clip off.


This is how I left it last night.


About to start back in. Hoping to get the interiors swapped and start in on some more degreasing. Got several loose parts I need to clean while waiting on the manifold hardware to come in. If its not in by monday I'll have to call them to see if they are sending it or not. Never did get a conformation on how they were going to handle it. Will also look to see if the suspension will swap over, mines like jelly and the donor trucks is rock solid. Will need to pull the donor bed as well, hopefully the mounting bolts wont give me trouble. Had to cut half of them off my truck.
 
  #69  
Old 01-26-2019, 06:49 PM
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Original hood release cable screw.
What the PO thought would be an acceptable replacement. Mostly just a minor inconvenience in the grand dash pulling scheme.








Donor truck had a rogue U type speed nut as well. Was in almost as bad a spot as the other one. Starting to really not like these things






This is where I finished out today. Got the donor truck ready to remove the doors. Got a few bits of trim to remove from my truck. Got a lot of cleaning and painting to do, and I should probably go get some paint for the interior swap, I really dont want to have to go to all this trouble again. Also, no one said this bit was more over my head than knee deep.
 
  #70  
Old 01-27-2019, 12:48 PM
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First let me say I know what you are going thru, been there done that!
Between the parts truck & my project truck I also used the best parts between them to use in the rebuild.

On plastic parts that have cracks or missing a tab or 2 you http://www.plastex.net/ I have used it on another project dash. I had to build a mold to make new lips that the screws go thru to hold the bezel to the dash frame.
I also have some tabs that are cracked or missing that I will need to fix. Should have done that before I painted it.

3/4" body filler is OK .......... if you are a HACK! When I was learning body work no more than a 1/4" and the thinner the better.

On the Unuts I think I had 2 or 3 between the 2 trucks that did that. When and where I could I sprayed everything for a few days before I needed to pull them apart. I was shocked the parts truck came apart as easy as it did. Bed bolts I sprayed for weeks before I used the impac gun on them and they came right off.

The suspension, hope you been spraying it every day.
As for swapping I ran into a little issue. Are both trucks power or non-power brakes? Check the wheel bolt patterns between them. My trucks were a power & non-power and the bolt patterns different between them.
Now my trucks use kingpins, I also found everything for the front suspensions were different between them so could not use any of the parts truck suspension parts because I wanted to use my custom after market wheels. I found this all out after I cleaned, checked & painted and installed it in my truck..
So if the wheel bolt patterns are the same betweenthe2truckthen you can swap the full suspensions between them.
Oh to help when I did the swap I left the springs on the beams, undone from the truck at the top, because to try and undo that nut on the bottom of the spring is a PITA.

Did I answer all the questions?
Dave ----
 
  #71  
Old 01-27-2019, 01:02 PM
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I haven't been sprayting that often, I usually remember to hose everything down right before I try it, but not always. I have been using Ed's Red. and most everything got a good drink or two. Used it when I took the exhaust apart. Mostly haven't had any issues with bolts stuck other than those 3 u bolts. It's hot out today, going to try to get the interior out of the donor truck. Got folks out in town today going to pick me up a couple of cans of Dupi-Color, hope it works alright on the interior. Tonight and tomorrow are the last days I'm going to have to paint anything for awhile. If I can at least get the main part of the dash done I'll be happy, everything else is easy to remove and/or can wait til later to go in. Hoping to have the cab put back together before my manifold hardware comes in. Which will either be in the next 4 days, or eventually. I'd rather the truck be waiting on mechanical stuff as opposed to trim and the like keeping me from driving it.
 
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Old 01-27-2019, 01:04 PM
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In the picture it looks like the **** came off the head light switch but the rod was still in the switch?
The **** & rod are 1 piece and should come out tighter. To do this there is a little button with a spring on the top side. Push in the button and pull the **** / rod out as one, you may need to turn it back & forth a little to break it loose.

In my case I was using the dash & all wiring harness from my part truck in my truck so I left the harness on the dash frame.
I pulled the steering column but left the seat, pushed the wires from the engine bay back into the cab and slid the dash frame on the seat till all the wiring was loose.
Kind of did the same when installing it. Put the dash frame with wiring on the seat then fed the wiring thru the firewall then flipped the dash frame into place.

edit: I also see 2 metal tube dash frame braces, just know they are different between AC and non-AC dashes IIRC.
Also know there is a difference in the harness if duel tanks or not. Even the rear harness as it has wires for both tanks in it. That is why I had to use the parts truck harness, duel tanks for my flare side.
Dave ----
 
  #73  
Old 01-27-2019, 03:54 PM
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***** on both of mine come off. They have a slot on the side to reach in and release the spring lock. Got the dash out of the 85. And I'm about to hop over to your page with the ac vac diagram.
 
  #74  
Old 01-27-2019, 07:06 PM
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Completely disassembled dash plastic.

Washed it twice, started with a 2" paint brush to soften up the dirt. Used the last of my detail engine degreaser. Scrubbed with hard plastic brush, then used a copper mesh dish scrubber, but wasnt heavy handed. Drip drying, before I hit it with a towel dry


Tore the supports apart as well, scrubbed them in the degreaser with a wire brush. I have some rattle can rustoleum that bonds with light rust. I assume I won't remember how this all goes together, but I do have the other dash in tact. So maybe.

Paint I found at the parts store, hope it works well. I'm somewhere between wanting to do to great job, and wanting to get paint on it before it starts raining again, been 3 days no rain, so I know It'll start any minute.

Wiped down parts. Will hit them with a fresh towel after I eat supper. If they are dry enough later I may hit the back of the dash with a coat to see what it's going to do. Behind the passenger headlight is a big ol' box of interior tri

Intend to start in early tomorrow, it may rain in the evening and it's not going to be near as warm. First thing I'm going to put a coat of paint on the parts I prepped tonight. Then Scrub the other parts off, second coat, towel dry, third coat, and if that doesnt take all day I'll start painting the other parts assuming all goes well. I should probably prep the engine first first thing and get it primed as well.

I'm going to pencil in a little time one of these days and swap the brake systems and suspension. Probably going to end up with the cab in the air. It's getting deep again.
 
  #75  
Old 01-28-2019, 12:25 PM
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I never went that crazy in pulling the dash that far down to paint the metal parts.
My take, once the dash is mounted you will never see the rusty metal parts.
Dave ----
 

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