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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Knee deep and over my head, maybe

 
  #31  
Old 01-21-2019, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Kramercd View Post
I've got a ton of stale gas, I may try it next. My shop floor is mud and it's not a lot of fun crawling around in to work under the truck, but I don't have much else to do right now. Finally separated the intake and exhaust manifolds. Egr tube came off no trouble. What's the story on the choke in the exhaust? Backfire arresting or what? When I move the manifold the plate fell out of mine, and that's all there was, never heard the rod hit the ground and I haven't found any other parts.
I had everything pulled for the rebuild so cleaning was not hard.






I had a drain pan under the motor & trany when I was washing down the bad gas so I would not get any on the cement floor.
Dave ----
 
  #32  
Old 01-21-2019, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jackietreehorn View Post
I think a short block 300 is over 400, with all accessories it's probably closer to 600. That looks like a FE or cleve block in the pic. Sorry for hijacking!
No idea what hijacking refers to, but more the merrier. I think I'm mostly pestering folks while I wait on parts. I don't know much about engines, but am trying to sponge up what I can. I want to say the modified was big block and cleveland and windsor were small block, but I really cant remember, I know its 2-1 i just dont remember which or what kind. I know my buddy has a mechanic who swears he can put a c6 off a 351m behind a 302, google swears he cant. It came with an AOD I think, so he'll have something. Big Block 300 6?
 
  #33  
Old 01-21-2019, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
I had everything pulled for the rebuild so cleaning was not hard.






I had a drain pan under the motor & trany when I was washing down the bad gas so I would not get any on the cement floor.
Dave ----
Looks way different from mine, well, one side I'm down to paint on. Wish I could pull mine, I really want to tear it apart and look at it's guts. Everything Im finding under the protective grease layer looks pretty good so far.

What kind of paint did you use? I saw some high temp stuff on one of the parts store website, stuffs too hot to ship though, think it's good for 2000 degrees. I've got rattle cans of primer gray and a generic blue, not sure that's what I want to use anymore though. I'm trying to convince myself this is just going to be a preventative maintenance sort of paint job while I'm in the area. But I don't know when I'll get to the full restoration point and I want it to look good as well.
 
  #34  
Old 01-21-2019, 09:39 PM
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That VHT stuff they sell in the stores works very good and they have all the correct colors also. It sticks very good, even if you miss a couple of spots of grease here and there.
 
  #35  
Old 01-21-2019, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
That VHT stuff they sell in the stores works very good and they have all the correct colors also. It sticks very good, even if you miss a couple of spots of grease here and there.
Thats the stuff. They wont ship it to home. Got to get it in the store and I dont think mine stock it, I'll have to have them order it to the store and pay up front I'm sure.
 
  #36  
Old 01-22-2019, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
That VHT stuff they sell in the stores works very good and they have all the correct colors also. It sticks very good, even if you miss a couple of spots of grease here and there.
Yep that's what I used in the Ford blue I liked the trany is cast steel color and no primer.
After cleaning I replaced the valve and side cover and oil pan gaskets as they all looked like they were leaking.
I just wanted everything to look nice when done not like a show truck.
Dave - - - -
 
  #37  
Old 01-22-2019, 07:29 AM
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It's parts truck day!

Picked up an 85 f150 a month or so back. Took awhile to get it bought, it was out of state. Give the motor and trans to a friend of mine, he hauled it for me. Had a 302 in it. Actually was in better shape than my truck. They burnt the starter up trying to get it running before I come down after it. I believe previous previous owner did and efi to carb swap on it and didnt get it quite right. No title, unusually clean body, two tiny dings and just a hair of surface rust. Interior IIRC, haven't seen it in awhile, is immaculate, is the wrong color though. Paid either 500 or 550 for it. And the only reason I got it was because it's pretty and I want a functioning shift collar. I modified one from a 79 to get the truck driving again, but lever doesnt detent. I heard the mod was possible online but that was it, no how's, or how-tos. Or even how to remove the thing. Mostly just had to chop the thing shorty, and I'm pretty sure it would work if i chopped it down even more.

I'll post pics of both truck when I get in.
 
  #38  
Old 01-22-2019, 07:42 AM
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Too bad you didn't get a title. Using that whole cab from that truck would have been a option if it's rust free. As you spend money and start welding patch panels in place you start to realize rust free has a lot of value.
 
  #39  
Old 01-22-2019, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
Too bad you didn't get a title. Using that whole cab from that truck would have been a option if it's rust free. As you spend money and start welding patch panels in place you start to realize rust free has a lot of value.
Well, I had considered that, and I could probably get a title, havent looked into it much. My truck is in pretty good shape. Had some minor holes in the floor of the cab. most the size of screw holes, biggest were around the trim screws, three of them rusted out but were smaller than a quarter. I just fiberglassed them and rolled bedliner on the floor of the cab. Came out looking pretty good. I have a small dent on the driver side at the crown about the windshield, minor dent on the front passenger quarter panel. Worst spot is passenger rear bed corner has rotted through inner and outer panel. But the structure is still there, so not too bad. I'm hesitant to swap body parts around since they aren't an exact match, but I think I'm going to use the bed from the donor truck, at least for awhile. It's in great shape, has a heavy bedliner in it as well. My bed is super thin, and the toprail in back has been partial cut which caused it to break right there. I think my buddy wants to use the cab from the 85 for his truck as well, and I'm sure he could do it without anyone noticing too.
 
  #40  
Old 01-22-2019, 08:02 AM
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He needs to try and get the title if possible. Try to take the high road. The authorities frown on moving VIN tags. We have thieves in the country to thank for that.
 
  #41  
Old 01-22-2019, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Kramercd View Post
What's the story on the choke in the exhaust? Backfire arresting or what? When I move the manifold the plate fell out of mine, and that's all there was, never heard the rod hit the ground and I haven't found any other parts.
You are referring to the part shown in my picture below? I'm only showing the spring/weight on the outside of the "flap". But the rod shown goes through the exhaust, to which the flap is attached. This helps warm the intake. A bi-metallic spring and weight controls the "flap". When the engine is cold, hot exhaust air (or at least some of it) is forced into a space in the bottom of the intake manifold to heat the intake floor. That's why the intake/exhaust manifolds are bolted together. When the engine warms up a bit, the bi-metallic spring allows the flap to open and expel more exhaust out the tailpipe, and forces less to the intake.

 
  #42  
Old 01-22-2019, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 81F(ranken)100 View Post
You are referring to the part shown in my picture below? I'm only showing the spring/weight on the outside of the "flap". But the rod shown goes through the exhaust, to which the flap is attached. This helps warm the intake. A bi-metallic spring and weight controls the "flap". When the engine is cold, hot exhaust air (or at least some of it) is forced into a space in the bottom of the intake manifold to heat the intake floor. That's why the intake/exhaust manifolds are bolted together. When the engine warms up a bit, the bi-metallic spring allows the flap to open and expel more exhaust out the tailpipe, and forces less to the intake.

All I found from mine was the flap. Now there isnt anywhere for the exhaust to pass through the intake is there, or does it divert it through the intake and back out the exhaust? I'll have to take a look at my parts pile and see what they look like again. But you said it's to warm the intake? Does it have any other function? One of these days I'm going to know everything about this truck, may even memorize torque specs for all the bolts lol no I wont.
 
  #43  
Old 01-22-2019, 10:43 AM
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I think it circulates, but I'm not sure. You can see the flap in the first picture, and the bottom of the intake in the second picture. Using your imagination, the two surfaces shown would be mated during operation. Judging by the angle of the flap and the "wall" divider on the bottom of the intake, I think it circulates in "on top of the flap" and back out "below the flap", where the dividing wall of the intake keeps the separation between entering and exiting exhaust gases.

Again, this is just a guess. It could be that there is no true circulation at all, and hot exhaust gas is simply "forced" into the cavity under the intake and doesn't really circulate - but rather more of a "swirl" effect. Could be tested with a garden hose I guess



 
  #44  
Old 01-22-2019, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Kramercd View Post
Well, I had considered that, and I could probably get a title, havent looked into it much. My truck is in pretty good shape. Had some minor holes in the floor of the cab. most the size of screw holes, biggest were around the trim screws, three of them rusted out but were smaller than a quarter. I just fiberglassed them and rolled bedliner on the floor of the cab. Came out looking pretty good. I have a small dent on the driver side at the crown about the windshield, minor dent on the front passenger quarter panel. Worst spot is passenger rear bed corner has rotted through inner and outer panel. But the structure is still there, so not too bad. I'm hesitant to swap body parts around since they aren't an exact match, but I think I'm going to use the bed from the donor truck, at least for awhile. It's in great shape, has a heavy bedliner in it as well. My bed is super thin, and the toprail in back has been partial cut which caused it to break right there. I think my buddy wants to use the cab from the 85 for his truck as well, and I'm sure he could do it without anyone noticing too.
Check your local laws some areas will issue you a new vin if major components have been replaced such as cab or frame aka an amalgamated vehicle. You may able to use the cab with no hassles.
 
  #45  
Old 01-22-2019, 03:35 PM
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I never knew exactly how the 300 six heat riser worked, but I think you must be correct on that circulation thing. On the v8s they block one side, and it forces it through a passage in the intake manifold, under the carb, and then out the other side of the engine and the other exhaust manifold. So it circulates in a way also.
 

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